2008 Z33

(2008 350z) (If you have any questions ask and I’ll reply asap) The night before the car died it would have a weird very low idle and while driving it would kinda of jerk like you was sitting on rev limiter but it was happening at 2k rpm’s but sometimes if you held the gas down for a little bit it would go from staying at 2k rpm’s and low power to running “normal” after it got to 4k rpm’s and then yesterday it was still doing it and even with a cold start in the morning it would sounds weird like it was maybe miss fireing but it had a weird tone and then on the way to the shop it still do the same as the night before and jerk sometimes make the weird tone sound and stark at 2k rpm’s and bounce of it like a rev limiter at the shop sprayed both maf sensors with maf spray and then did a ecu reset and took the car down the road it was fine for about a mile then the rpm’s dropped from 3-4k straight to 0 car died and all dash lights came on and then after that the car wouldn’t turn over anymore but it would try to start and you can’t here the fule pump prime like it normally dose so I’m thinking it’s a crankshaft position sensor or camshaft position sensor or maybe a fule pump

dkmura

iTrader: (64)

Welcome- have you tried pulling codes and letting the onboard diagnostic system give you a clue?

2008 Z33

Don’t have a reader for a car only for bigger trucks and where the car won’t start can’t move it to like a part store to get it read

dkmura

iTrader: (64)

Sounds like it could be a CPS, but without checking codes, it's hard to even guess at it. If the Z is not at home, you'll likely need to hire a tow to get it there or to a repair shop. Sorry to say, but it's not something any of us can give you a definitive answer on from behind a keyboard, particularly on a Sunday afternoon.

MicVelo

Not sure why a reader for a "big truck" wouldn't read basic codes. OBD II is industry standard and basic DTCs are non-marque specific (read: "standard"). At least hook 'er up and non-Nissan specific codes will show up.

Word of advice: if replacing a crank (or cam) sensor, do all of them together with OEM (or Hitachi equivalents). If this isn't in the FAQ, it should be. I alone have uttered this at least 168 times. 🤣

Heel Til I Die

iTrader: (2)

169. But, who's counting?

Also, for the love God, man. Use a freaking period or some punctuation.

MicVelo

Thank you, was going to say there was a run-on issue.

But decided to be a gentleman. Comes with age, Heel. 🤣

2008 Z33

the ports on the reader aren’t the same on the car for whatever reason

2008 Z33

Replaced the crankshaft sensor still no luck but while hitting the fule pump it tried to turn over before the battery died so will probably try and pick up one tomorrow

travlee

iTrader: (8)

Heel Til I Die

iTrader: (2)

I'll never understand this. Go get the codes read at just about any auto parts store for free? Nah, I'll just keep replacing things based on what I've read on the interwebz.

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dkmura

iTrader: (64)

To avoid just replacing parts, why not buy an inexpensive code reader to get a clue? It's a tool that most noobs will need (rather than replacing parts like a fuel pump).