If there is a link to answer some of my questions, kindly point it out to me. Apologies if this has been asked before:


Hello all, I just purchased a 2005 350Z AT Enthusiast model. I read through some of the owner manual, and now am looking for some guidance after purchase.
1. Going to replace PS and Brake Fluid and belts. AT and Oil change, and coolant was done recently by previous owner
2. 75k miles. Do i need to change plugs? looks like 100k or so, but opinions?
3. Tires look good, thinking 4 wheel rebalance and wheel alignment?
4.Battery is over 3 yrs old and previous owner had not driven the car for several weeks. Needed Jump start. Replace battery? suggestions on make/model?
5. I will be replacing brakes and rotors myself. any gotches?

what services should i perfrom asap, and what can wait?
Any advantage to go to Nissan over kwicky shops? I don't trust the Mr. Oil places, but Nissan is a bit more expensive obviously? is there any computer upgrades needed that only Nissan can do?
OBD report showed some CAN bus communications issues but they are related to low voltage.

am I missing anything?

thanks for allowing in the community. Appreciate any assistance.

-Wayne

 

you have a good list going, brakes are pretty easy

if it were me, i would replace the plugs along with all fluids.. diff, trans, coolant etc

 

Trav has it right. ^^ Although I don't really think you need to change the plugs; but if you're going to all the trouble of taking one or more out to do a plug read, then just swap 'em all.

But first thing I'd do is change out the battery and while at it, have the vendor do a load test on the system to make sure the charging system is functioning properly. So many problems trace back to a bad battery that you might as well swap it out for a known good baseline.

On tires, check the date codes and if more than, say, 5 years old, consider changing them out or at least know how old they are for future reference.

 

belts wouldnt hurt either.. being 18 years old, might be starting to dry rot

 

My 18 year old ac belt is disintegrating. The main belt was replaced about six years ago.

 

Late to the party,

I would consider replacing the radiator, but with that mileage it's probably ok for another 30-50k mi. Since you have the AT, it's going to be a bit more work and pricier. I believe there are trans cooler lines at the radiator.

When you do the brakes, consider replacing the soft lines to the calipers, those could be starting to crack or dry rot. Most folks go with performance upgraded braided stainless lines, but if you like the OEM feel, get some quality rubber lines.

Also, most 350Z suspension components start failing around 50-60k mi. I'm talking mainly about struts. But bushings have been known to fail early, especially if the vehicle has been lowered. I would have the front suspension bushings checked, focus on the Front Lower control arm bushings, and Compression Rod/Arm bushings. Then I would inspect the rear differential subframe bushing. Check struts for signs of weeping (rears typically show signs 1st).

I think all other items I would tackle have already been suggested. Maybe run some BG 44K through the fuel system, replace the air filter, and consider cleaning the throttle body. If you clean the throttle body, you will most likely need to do an idle air relearn or throttle position relearn/calibration. If this sounds tricky for you, don't bother with it, especially if the throttle body throat & blade looks clean.

No computer upgrades that I'm aware of from Nissan. There were TSBs and such over the years, but no recalls related to software upgrades/re-programming. If the battery is an AGM or Gel type, it's probably done for and should be replaced. If it's a classic Flooded Lead Acid battery, you might be able to revive it. If it were me, I would do as Mic suggested and replace it.

Congrats on your purchase! Keep us updated with the refresh, sounds like a low mileage example. I'm guessing you purchased from the original owner?
Cheers!
-Icer

 

I changed the belts and fluids and filters, brought the car to Nissan for spark plug replacement. Charged me $653! out of control! Inspection said the front L & R lower control arms rearward have bushings that are disintegrating. They wanted like $1100 for replacement. Not going back to Nissan! also, one of the plugs had some wet oil on the insulator. They said the vlave cover gaskets and spark plug tube gaskets need replacement. They were not pleased as the coils were aftermarket, but when he said the OEM was like $186 per coil its not surprising.
Not thrilled with the convertible top which is a 50-50 as to whether it closes after it begins the operatic dance. I see the straps are a common problem so I will look at that.
Car handles and drives great. lots of power. Thanks to all who contributed

 

yes, i bought it from someone who just bought a Taco and needed more room. He was the second owner for the past 5 years, It's a fun car, but doesn't handle quite the same as my '21 Miata. Much more power but not as much finesse in corners. paid $9k. Thanks!

 

Well, you are comparing a 19 year old car with 19 year old suspension. Tough comparo with a newish MX5, which has good handling out of the box.

But no fret, that can be rectified and if it's a keeper car then invest the money in new suspension components as icer mentioned above. New bushings, struts, and, I'll add, consider a good set of tires - depending on what you have on the car now. As mentioned, if the tires are old, a change to a set of contemporary performance or all weather performance tires (and maybe some light weight wheels) make the BIGGEST "feel change" on your car. Matter of fact, would suggest that as the first change THEN see how the car feels. You might be able to stave off the other changes for a bit. Always a good idea to tune suspension based around the tires.

My last Z33 had all of its mods in the suspension/tires and worth every penny with razor sharp response, good ultimate grip and still a respectable ride on the street. If you're not tracking it (or just the occasional HPDE), you don't need the complexity of coilovers but a good set of shock/struts, adjustable F&R components to enable a good performance oriented alignment makes a world of difference. Still might not feel as nimble as a Miata but consider the weight difference between the two and you can see why the Miata feels more nimble.

All said, however, recommend you get the car to a good mechanical baseline meaning, do the valve covers, pay attention to maintenance items (most done already it looks like), address the top issue and plan it all out according to budget.

 

Nissan said the front lower rearward control arms have bushings which are dry rotted. wanted like $1100 to change them. The job looks like a real pain doing it on the floor. Have to press out the ball joint, take off the sway bar link, etc. any advice? should i go OEM on parts? not too trusting of amazon chinese parts and it would be a nightmare to do this job 2x. what do you guys think would be a fair price for this parts and labor?

thanks,

 

Hi Lefty,

Those are the compression rod/arms. Most folks replace with aftermarket since I don't believe Nissan sells just a set of OEM bushings. You would need to purchase an entire control arm which is pricey! Removing the arm is fairly simple, there are plenty of YT videos covering the process. But if you don't have a press at home, you will need to take the arms to a shop or buddy who does have one, and pay them to take care of that portion. This is the most affordable option. I'm using Whiteline bushings for both my compression arms and front lower control arms. I honestly don't feel any noticeable difference between the Poly bushings vs. the OEM.

Regarding the ball joints, I wouldn't mess with them unless they are showing signs of wear (looseness or play) and the boots are ripped/torn/cracked. There are aftermarket balljoints available as well, but again replacing these requires the use of a press with specialized balljoint cups/dies. Nissan also changed the size of the balljoints over the years, so it's very important to pay close attention to the parts (compare new to the old).

Alternatively, there are complete aftermarket arms with bushings and balljoints pressed in, ready to go. That's always an option. You can go to an independent shop and tell them what you want and allow them to handle the purchasing & installation (for warranty purposes).

Me personally, I love maintaining my own vehicles and I have the space/tools/knowledge to do so. But I understand not everyone has the space, tools, or skillset to do this. It's hard to find an honest shop that does quality work in my neck of the woods. The few that do exist are usually booked out for weeks or months.
Cheers!
-Icer

 

Alternatively, there are complete aftermarket arms with bushings and balljoints pressed in, ready to go. That's always an option. You can go to an independent shop and tell them what you want and allow them to handle the purchasing & installation (for warranty purposes).

Thanks, I have seen the control arms on amazon, parts geek, rockauto. I was going to do this but on the ground in Florida, and getting a press, etc is way too much. I have a mechanic who i can ask to price the job. Would like to go OEM on the arms but Nissan is outrageous price wise.

thanks! Much appreciated