finalforce's JDM Interlagos Fire
02-18-2011, 01:08 PM
#1382
Do you know what size socket I need to remove the nut off the spindle? I don't think I have the socket for it and it would be good to know so when I start I have all the tools. Feel free to throw in ideas. The last time I replaced my studs was almost 14 years ago! I'm sure it will all come back though once I start 
02-18-2011, 01:32 PM
#1383
Can't remember the exact sizes, but they are common sizes that are used with the other suspension parts...This link might help you as well...
h t t p ://www. 350z - tech . c o m/zwiki/Wheel_Stud_Replacement
(Take out the spaces...wouldn't let me link it...)
h t t p ://www. 350z - tech . c o m/zwiki/Wheel_Stud_Replacement
(Take out the spaces...wouldn't let me link it...)
Last edited by brandon3434; 02-18-2011 at 01:33 PM.
02-18-2011, 04:04 PM
#1385
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^^^ He's right. I had to opt out with Ichiba v1 Spacers also when I wanted to add a 10mm spacer. As for removing the studs all you need to do is remove the caliper bolts, remove the rotors, and hammer out the studs. As for pressing in the studs, I just went to autozone and got the right sized nut and tightened it until I thought the stud was pressed in enough. So far so good and I haven't had an issue. The rotors might be a little troublesome to remove because of all the rust.
02-18-2011, 04:19 PM
#1386
Alright, back to the drawing board with my spacers. I tried them on and to my misfortune, the inserts where my original studs are suppose to sit don't allow enough room for the original studs to sit flush therefore the studs are pressing against my wheel hub. I can no longer use these with my GT-F's 
For you spacer pros, let me know if this is safe. I tried combining my 5mm and 3mm to push my wheels out and to my surprise the fitment was "exactly" how I wanted it to look. I was able to make about four to four and a half full revolutions when I tighten them all around. My question, is that enough and/or safe? I haven't driven it yet so hopefully some of you guys with experience can chime in with your input.
* BTW, I listed them for sale below on the link
Project Kics 10mm spacer (pair-BNIB!)
For you spacer pros, let me know if this is safe. I tried combining my 5mm and 3mm to push my wheels out and to my surprise the fitment was "exactly" how I wanted it to look. I was able to make about four to four and a half full revolutions when I tighten them all around. My question, is that enough and/or safe? I haven't driven it yet so hopefully some of you guys with experience can chime in with your input.
* BTW, I listed them for sale below on the link
Project Kics 10mm spacer (pair-BNIB!)
to answer your question they sell 8mm slip on spacers at advance auto. i ran em with stock studs no issues for a couple months. just make sure to torque them right, i did 90ft lbs. but i suggest going with longer studs for that. and i wouldn't stack a 3mm and a 5mm slip on together.
btw at one point i ran a 5mm slip on, then a 25mm with built in studs on top of that, then a 3mm slip on on top of that, all stacked up. triple stacker! worked fine for a month or two lol.
02-18-2011, 04:35 PM
#1387
^ Ha, awesome dude.....triple stacker! I'm gonna just get the ichiba V1 10mm spacers to be safe. My GT-F's do have slots it's just not deep enough, thus only a 20mm or more spacer would fit. My stock studs were bumping into the hub of my Volks, despite the allotted slot for studs.
02-19-2011, 08:17 AM
#1388
^^^ He's right. I had to opt out with Ichiba v1 Spacers also when I wanted to add a 10mm spacer. As for removing the studs all you need to do is remove the caliper bolts, remove the rotors, and hammer out the studs. As for pressing in the studs, I just went to autozone and got the right sized nut and tightened it until I thought the stud was pressed in enough. So far so good and I haven't had an issue. The rotors might be a little troublesome to remove because of all the rust.
Do you remember what size socket you used to remove your rotors off the spindle?
02-19-2011, 08:35 AM
#1389
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The rotors aren't held by bolts. Just make sure the e brake is released for the rear. There will a good amount of rust behind the rotor so it will be tough to take it out. What I do is put a long bolt behind (any size) the rotor where you mount the caliper bolt and tighten it with a nut until the end of the bolt pushes out the rotor and breaks the rust. You'll hear a loud pop. You can use two bolts if you want to even out the force in both the caliper mounting points. Someone people just use a mallet and smack the rotor but it is much easier using the bolt method.
Last edited by Rodizzle; 02-19-2011 at 08:38 AM.
02-19-2011, 09:15 AM
#1390
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Yea, I would suggest you to get a ichiba hubcenteric spacers to be safe. I used to have Project kics 10mm spacers and changed to ichiba after having a trouble with those spacers.... 4 of studs have massed up while I was driving a local street. Bad experience with Project kics spacers
02-21-2011, 09:52 AM
#1391
The rotors aren't held by bolts. Just make sure the e brake is released for the rear. There will a good amount of rust behind the rotor so it will be tough to take it out. What I do is put a long bolt behind (any size) the rotor where you mount the caliper bolt and tighten it with a nut until the end of the bolt pushes out the rotor and breaks the rust. You'll hear a loud pop. You can use two bolts if you want to even out the force in both the caliper mounting points. Someone people just use a mallet and smack the rotor but it is much easier using the bolt method.
Yea, I would suggest you to get a ichiba hubcenteric spacers to be safe. I used to have Project kics 10mm spacers and changed to ichiba after having a trouble with those spacers.... 4 of studs have massed up while I was driving a local street. Bad experience with Project kics spacers
02-21-2011, 10:07 AM
#1392
Here's a pic that shows the entire shape of my car along with the current fitment/stance. Right now my rear has a 5mm spacer which will be replaced with a 10mm. The front has a 3mm and it will be swapped out with the 5mm that's in the rear.
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02-21-2011, 12:33 PM
#1393
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I like the new wheels, and I like the car..... I just don't like them together
I think the car looked a lot more special and unique with the SSRs.
These wheels seem so "run of the mill" when compared to the SSRs.
You mentioned your lug nut dilemma a couple pages back.... With those wheels, on that car I think Volk Formula lugs with a black cap would look awesome on there!
Also, you could have kept the Project Kics spacers and just cut down your stock studs.... I had to do that with my 15mm Kics spacers on the back with one of my sets of wheels.
I think the car looked a lot more special and unique with the SSRs.
These wheels seem so "run of the mill" when compared to the SSRs.
You mentioned your lug nut dilemma a couple pages back.... With those wheels, on that car I think Volk Formula lugs with a black cap would look awesome on there!
Also, you could have kept the Project Kics spacers and just cut down your stock studs.... I had to do that with my 15mm Kics spacers on the back with one of my sets of wheels.
Last edited by 350Z_Al; 02-21-2011 at 12:37 PM.
02-21-2011, 02:00 PM
#1394
I actually like these wheels better, but every time I look back at my pictures it makes me want to get another fat spoke wheel. Its one of those, "you have to see in person" to appreciate. I'm sure though there are a lot of people that still prefer my SSR's over these.
I have the red Rays lugs but after trying them on they look like *** IMO. It took too much attention as it stood out like a sore thumb. I want the attention to go to the detail of the rim and the accents of the center cap, not the lug nuts. The whole purpose of me staying away from more "black" parts for my wheels is because its mainly black and having a black center cap will just add more clog. The amount of chrome on the caps and the distinct red accents is more than enough to hit the spot for me. Too much can be over kill.
As for cutting my OEM studs that's something I'll never sacrifice just for the sake of making the P. Kics work. I'd rather just do it the right way and buy the extended studs.
I have the red Rays lugs but after trying them on they look like *** IMO. It took too much attention as it stood out like a sore thumb. I want the attention to go to the detail of the rim and the accents of the center cap, not the lug nuts. The whole purpose of me staying away from more "black" parts for my wheels is because its mainly black and having a black center cap will just add more clog. The amount of chrome on the caps and the distinct red accents is more than enough to hit the spot for me. Too much can be over kill.
As for cutting my OEM studs that's something I'll never sacrifice just for the sake of making the P. Kics work. I'd rather just do it the right way and buy the extended studs.
02-21-2011, 02:49 PM
#1397
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I actually like these wheels better, but every time I look back at my pictures it makes me want to get another fat spoke wheel. Its one of those, "you have to see in person" to appreciate. I'm sure though there are a lot of people that still prefer my SSR's over these.
I have the red Rays lugs but after trying them on they look like *** IMO. It took too much attention as it stood out like a sore thumb. I want the attention to go to the detail of the rim and the accents of the center cap, not the lug nuts. The whole purpose of me staying away from more "black" parts for my wheels is because its mainly black and having a black center cap will just add more clog. The amount of chrome on the caps and the distinct red accents is more than enough to hit the spot for me. Too much can be over kill.
As for cutting my OEM studs that's something I'll never sacrifice just for the sake of making the P. Kics work. I'd rather just do it the right way and buy the extended studs.
I have the red Rays lugs but after trying them on they look like *** IMO. It took too much attention as it stood out like a sore thumb. I want the attention to go to the detail of the rim and the accents of the center cap, not the lug nuts. The whole purpose of me staying away from more "black" parts for my wheels is because its mainly black and having a black center cap will just add more clog. The amount of chrome on the caps and the distinct red accents is more than enough to hit the spot for me. Too much can be over kill.
As for cutting my OEM studs that's something I'll never sacrifice just for the sake of making the P. Kics work. I'd rather just do it the right way and buy the extended studs.
I agree the solid red's would look out of place.
These are the Formula lugs I'm talking about:
If you already have these, but in red you can always try removing the red annodizing on the caps and then polishing them!
02-21-2011, 02:53 PM
#1399
Alright my last question for you spacer pros. I know Toby-22 did it, but did anyone else ever try using an 8mm spacer on stock studs and run it for a while? Right now I stacked mine (3mm+5mm; haven't driven it), but I will remove the stack entirely and probably go with a single 8mm. As it sits now, the 8mm is "perfect" in the rear for my height. I'll more than likely leave the 3mm up front as it matches the 8mm poke out back.
If I were to ever lower it like before (slammed) the 10mm will play a better role, but its not likely I'll drive it that low again.
If I were to ever lower it like before (slammed) the 10mm will play a better role, but its not likely I'll drive it that low again.
02-21-2011, 03:38 PM
#1400
Registered User
Alright my last question for you spacer pros. I know Toby-22 did it, but did anyone else ever try using an 8mm spacer on stock studs and run it for a while? Right now I stacked mine (3mm+5mm; haven't driven it), but I will remove the stack entirely and probably go with a single 8mm. As it sits now, the 8mm is "perfect" in the rear for my height. I'll more than likely leave the 3mm up front as it matches the 8mm poke out back.
If I were to ever lower it like before (slammed) the 10mm will play a better role, but its not likely I'll drive it that low again.
If I were to ever lower it like before (slammed) the 10mm will play a better role, but its not likely I'll drive it that low again.
There is a general rule for thread engagement used by mechanical types... You want 1.5 * Diameter of the bolt for thread engagement.
So, our wheel studs are 12mm diameter. 1.5 * 12mm = 18mm.
You want to have the lug nut go on to the stud at least 18mm.