My bud also gained power when switching from the Nismo CAI to Pop Charger on the same day.

I do admit that I'm switching to to Stillen airbox because the heat out here is ridiculous.

 

From that other thread.

https://my350z.com/forum/tuning/268925-got-my-06-tuned-3.html

I guess we can thank him for NOT starting any "misinformed" threads. You've got to start (or in his case probably just stop) somewhere.

 

i definitely am thinking of gettin the popcharger now, especially when gain difference isnt all that much different and also mainly because i save 30% off of CAI's..

(in the future) i plan on getting the HKS HiPower dual exhausts and 1/2" motordyne isothermal spacer

 

I'd still recommend getting test pipes, or atleast high flow cats, before an exhaust. The cats are the biggest choke point therefore the largest gains are to be had by replacing them.

 

+1

 

i have yet to really research anything on those... recommended brand & links if you please?

(my car is less than 3 weeks old im still learning manual! haha )

 

Use the search function noob!

















Just kidding, I don't mind answering your questions.

The stock catalytic converters are the biggest choke point in our exhaust. (Cats are always the biggest choke point in any exhaust.) Anyway, the easiest and cheapest thing to do is replace them with straight pipes, aka test pipes. There are two kinds of test pipes, resonated and non-resonated. Both of them are "illegal," and I'll get into why in a bit. The biggest con with test pipes is that you will get a noticable amount of rasp. Resonated test pipes have less rasp, but it'll still be there. The pro is that you'll get the biggest performance gain. With either pipe, you will not pass a visual MD state emissions inspection. However, most emission stations don't bother with a visual if your ECU is not throwing a code. I personally have passed an emissions test with test pipes. Your third option is for a high flow cat. These tend to be much more expensive then a simple straight pipe, and the gains are not as high... but they're legal and you'll never have to worry about swapping them out.

As for brands, you can get a decent test pipe from just about anywhere. Just not eBay. I've had Helix, X.E.R.D, and Ichiba pipes, all of which are lesser known name brands, and the welds were fine and stood up to the test of time. I'd recommend checking out the classified section to see what's available then searching the intake/exhaust section to find more specific info on the name brand. Good luck with you modding!

 

Sellin My Injen Cai Pm If Interrested

 

ahah, the search function sucks in these forums, though i do try to use them when i can.. im just lazy :-p

i know i only hav to get 1 state inspection and not every year like VA, but emissions inspection more than once?

i like the idea of high flow cats, even though i would love a performance gain, im not planning on doing a ton of racing (i like having money for gas)

 

how's kinetix high flows or resonated test pipes.. anyone?

 

I haven't dyno'ed mine yet but all I can tell you is my AEM CAI livened up both my plenum spacer and my exhaust. I felt a hell of a lot more power once I installed that. sorry, but it has definitely given me gains. Don't know what your guy's problem is. The bypass valve has worked. I have rocked it since it was introduced on all of my cars and I saw it demo'd at SEMA so I know it works chump. I don't know why you people think a short ram setup will ever match a true CAI setup. It's simple physics chief. Just because you may have proved you lost power with you CAI on your car doesn't mean this is the case for all Z's and G's. On the thread you posted you didn't prove anything so I'm still confused as to why you posted it. Whatever, mine works sorry yours didn't. You're turbo now so I would definitely let it go.

 

They're not bad. I like the stillen test/race pipes(non-resonated). The ones I have can be braced like the oem cats.

If your looking for show more than go, buy what looks good to you. However, if your looking for best bang for $, I'd buy a K&N drop in filter, test pipes and y-pipe(if your not going with a dual exhaust) and spacer. Your first high $$ purchase should be a utec IMO. Look for a tuner that will give you cheap re-tunes if you add anymore bolt-on's. In a month, I'll be selling all those parts(not utec) for a good price because a turbo kit kit is chillin' in the attic!

 

they're both wonderful. The HFC's are more expensive but it will keep you legal. Definitely go with resonated test pipes if you are going the TP route.

 

what about Rear Admiral and commander

 

Hmm, I'll go ahead and believe a REAL dyno vs. your butt dyno.

 

 

What he's trying to say is his broke *** can't afford a dyno pull so he's going to rely on the good ol' fashion butt dyno to tell us about this hp difference.

And while you're still schooling us please elaborate on the "simple physics" part.

 

I think he's saying that with a longer tube and more bends makes it easier to suck in air.

 

yes professor, please explain since you clearly have tons of empirical data aka "butt dyno" evidence to back up your argument.. yet no scientific data

 

Hmmm .... I wonder which one of these I would use if I was under water and need an air breathing device. Decisions, decisions.