Synlube Dot 5 Non-silicone Brake Fluid
Has anyone tried this Brake fluid from SYNLUBE. I'm upgrading my brake lines on the Brembos to SS. I figured at that time I would upgrade the fluid. I will be racing at Little Talladega in March and don't want my brakes to fade or fail.
They have a website at www.synlube.com They have other products besides brake fluid.
Thought I would pass it along. Let me know what you think.
They have a website at www.synlube.com They have other products besides brake fluid.
Thought I would pass it along. Let me know what you think.
Last edited by alphaz; Jan 8, 2003 at 08:12 PM.
Well, aside from having REALLY annoying midi music on the site, the specs on the 5.1 Long Life look good (424F wet & 585F dry)...comparable to Motul Racing 600 (421F wet & 585F dry). But the Synlube stuff is MUCH more expensive than Motul ($18/half liter compared to $10/half liter)...so why go with an unknown product when a race proven and cheaper alternative is out there?
personally the best I have ever used is Castrol SRF, but most people choke on the $70/liter cost. The 508 degF wet boiling point can't be touched by anything else. Considering the possibilities resulting from brake loss, it's cheap insurance in my book.
Originally posted by Team ???Z???
personally the best I have ever used is Castrol SRF, but most people choke on the $70/liter cost.
personally the best I have ever used is Castrol SRF, but most people choke on the $70/liter cost.
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oops, that should have been a 518 degF WBP
various racing equipment suppliers sell it, I get mine from Essex in GA sometimes, sometimes from Racer Wholesale too, You might find it a few bucks cheaper on the web somewhere.
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/srf1.htm
BTW, one of the reasons I use it is because it comes in a metal can. If you open a plastic can of brake fluid and don't use it all you might as well throw it away. Molecular moisture will permeate through thin plastic over time due (unless there is a barrier film, usually not on most plastic brake fluid containers) to common brake fluid being hygroscopic; it is always trying to scavenge moisture just like a magnet attracts iron filings. I also usually flush out the headspace at the top of the can with nitrogen gas to remove the humid air too.
May seem ****, but nothing can strike the fear of God faster in a racer than having the brakes fail at a critical moment, or at the very least it might cost you a critical event or championship.
various racing equipment suppliers sell it, I get mine from Essex in GA sometimes, sometimes from Racer Wholesale too, You might find it a few bucks cheaper on the web somewhere.
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/srf1.htm
BTW, one of the reasons I use it is because it comes in a metal can. If you open a plastic can of brake fluid and don't use it all you might as well throw it away. Molecular moisture will permeate through thin plastic over time due (unless there is a barrier film, usually not on most plastic brake fluid containers) to common brake fluid being hygroscopic; it is always trying to scavenge moisture just like a magnet attracts iron filings. I also usually flush out the headspace at the top of the can with nitrogen gas to remove the humid air too.
May seem ****, but nothing can strike the fear of God faster in a racer than having the brakes fail at a critical moment, or at the very least it might cost you a critical event or championship.
Last edited by Team ???Z???; Jan 11, 2003 at 03:24 PM.
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