Synlube Dot 5 Non-silicone Brake Fluid
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Synlube Dot 5 Non-silicone Brake Fluid
Has anyone tried this Brake fluid from SYNLUBE. I'm upgrading my brake lines on the Brembos to SS. I figured at that time I would upgrade the fluid. I will be racing at Little Talladega in March and don't want my brakes to fade or fail.
They have a website at www.synlube.com They have other products besides brake fluid.
Thought I would pass it along. Let me know what you think.
They have a website at www.synlube.com They have other products besides brake fluid.
Thought I would pass it along. Let me know what you think.
Last edited by alphaz; 01-08-2003 at 08:12 PM.
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Well, aside from having REALLY annoying midi music on the site, the specs on the 5.1 Long Life look good (424F wet & 585F dry)...comparable to Motul Racing 600 (421F wet & 585F dry). But the Synlube stuff is MUCH more expensive than Motul ($18/half liter compared to $10/half liter)...so why go with an unknown product when a race proven and cheaper alternative is out there?
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#6
personally the best I have ever used is Castrol SRF, but most people choke on the $70/liter cost. The 508 degF wet boiling point can't be touched by anything else. Considering the possibilities resulting from brake loss, it's cheap insurance in my book.
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Originally posted by Team ???Z???
personally the best I have ever used is Castrol SRF, but most people choke on the $70/liter cost.
personally the best I have ever used is Castrol SRF, but most people choke on the $70/liter cost.
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#8
oops, that should have been a 518 degF WBP
various racing equipment suppliers sell it, I get mine from Essex in GA sometimes, sometimes from Racer Wholesale too, You might find it a few bucks cheaper on the web somewhere.
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/srf1.htm
BTW, one of the reasons I use it is because it comes in a metal can. If you open a plastic can of brake fluid and don't use it all you might as well throw it away. Molecular moisture will permeate through thin plastic over time due (unless there is a barrier film, usually not on most plastic brake fluid containers) to common brake fluid being hygroscopic; it is always trying to scavenge moisture just like a magnet attracts iron filings. I also usually flush out the headspace at the top of the can with nitrogen gas to remove the humid air too.
May seem ****, but nothing can strike the fear of God faster in a racer than having the brakes fail at a critical moment, or at the very least it might cost you a critical event or championship.
various racing equipment suppliers sell it, I get mine from Essex in GA sometimes, sometimes from Racer Wholesale too, You might find it a few bucks cheaper on the web somewhere.
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/srf1.htm
BTW, one of the reasons I use it is because it comes in a metal can. If you open a plastic can of brake fluid and don't use it all you might as well throw it away. Molecular moisture will permeate through thin plastic over time due (unless there is a barrier film, usually not on most plastic brake fluid containers) to common brake fluid being hygroscopic; it is always trying to scavenge moisture just like a magnet attracts iron filings. I also usually flush out the headspace at the top of the can with nitrogen gas to remove the humid air too.
May seem ****, but nothing can strike the fear of God faster in a racer than having the brakes fail at a critical moment, or at the very least it might cost you a critical event or championship.
Last edited by Team ???Z???; 01-11-2003 at 03:24 PM.
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