Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

I have no need for any other gauges,and I can't stand how they look anyway, this cluster will display anything I tell it to

cc1012

tastefully modded......

copec

I'm all for the ONE digital gauge! Looks great!

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

new updates on the blog




Intake is all fabbed up - took all of about 20 mins to be honest, nothing special . This week I'll get the plenum cleaned up and off to get coated, along with the intake pipe and lower collector. Then we can install it all back together, and finally get her tuned!

Full details here: http://cornerbalance.wordpress.com/2...ming-together/

I also was told the new rear should be done very soon (the shims my installer needed came in), so I'll be looking forward to swapping that it at some point in the future too

Ivory

iTrader: (3)

Ohhh, I had no idea you had given up on the ITB project? Also did you by any chance considered larger valves when you were putting the engine together originally?

__jb

iTrader: (3)

Great info on your blog, Adam...

So, what you're saying about the Cosworth plenum is that it flowed enough that you didn't need to modify it to work on your Z? Did you bore the intake out to 75mm? I'll be interested to see your results with the Cosworth plenum.

Won't it be nice to have an actual cable to control the throttle! I suspect that there is much more to adding a cable to control the throttle body than just adding the cable and changing the throttle body. I'm not sure how you tell the ECU where the throttle is, or how you keep it from going into limp mode.


-jb

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

jb - volume and velocity wise, it's a monster of a plenum - it's balanced very well side cylinder to cylinder.

The only thing being done to it is just to clean up the lower ports so they are matched to those on my collector. The throttle body opening in the Cosworth is already big enough for the unit we're using. All we had to do was slot the mouting holes on the throttly body itself (they were very close to being a direct fit).

Converting it to a cable was pretty simple. We removed the whole pedal assembly and made a bracket which was welded to the backside of the pedal. There is alread a 0-5 volt sensor on the gas pedal itself, so we're using that as the TPS, to keep everything clean and tidy. From there, we swapped 4 wires as I recall on the Haltech, so that it's not looking for the standard TPS and instead is looking for the sensor on the back of the pedal as it's reference point. Finally, flashed the ecu to turn the factory drive by wire stuff off altogether. What we do need to address now is where the throttle cable comes through into the engine bay. We had 1 location all done when we were doing the ITB's but have to slightly move it now. I'm just trying to do without drilling again, if possible. Need to look at that more in depth tomorrow. I think we may need to trim that one tab you see on the factory barrier wall to the master cylinder, etc. It's super close to the throttle body linkage. Overall, throttle response should be pretty nuts, since the whole cable I think is under 3 feet long.

We also ditched the MAF and are going to run MAP based. For ease of assembly, I think we'll just put the MAP sensor right into the Cosworth itself, as there are prethreaded ports that we won't be using, that I think will accept the sensor directly.

I'm curious to see how it all works out too! Soon

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

Yeah, I tossed it to the curb - long, expensive story that's not for public consumption.

Valve wise, I went over it with the machinist before we started everything. The basic message he gave me was that I could do them, but it wasn't anything I had to do. The stock valves are already big for an NA car, so he didn't feel upsizing them would have any purpose. You do pick up some flow with some of the aftermarket valves, due to how the backface is cut. But, since this was always designed to be just a well mannered street oriented engine, I chose to just stick with stock valves.

How's your car doing?

warmmilk

iTrader: (5)

so i know that you know more about every aspect of a car than i do, but i couldn't just let this one go... Why put the sh*tty hks filter on your car? I know you had one just laying around, but the thing is absolute crap. you might as well not run a filter at all, its just as free

got the hks filter info here:
http://cornerbalance.wordpress.com/2...ming-together/

by basis on why the hks filter is worse than dog crap:
http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/filters_test/2/

(i know the test might be slightly off, but it still confirms that the hks blows)

jrotaryb

That is, quite simply, a very poorly executed test....and one that is referenced WAY too often.

Where are the filter surface area measurements? Where is the CFPM data to see which filter is sucking the most air. This data could really skew the results.

Kwame

iTrader: (78)

Oh shiet Jrotary in the hizouse...

warmmilk

iTrader: (5)

i'm only looking at that test from a filtering stand point, not anything to do with how much air it flows. if you're gonna havea filter that doesn't filter, then might as well just get an air horn.

btw adam, i didn't mean to rag on your build or anything, you have the best z (imho) i've ever seen. i was just wondering why you chose to run such a crappy filter when everything else on your car is the best of the best...

jrotaryb

And that is my point entirely...filtration in this case is directly related to the amount of air injested. No filter will stop ALL dirt from entering the intake path (even OEM). So, the more air that passes through the filter, the potential for more dirt comes with it.

Also, what size particle is acceptable to enter a motor? I'm sure there is some standard...

If each filter had the same surface area and flow rate, the test "results" would be far more telling. Without this information, the results don't mean much.

IMHO, this test is what blows

jrotaryb

Yup yup...hide your daughters and any baked goods btw, my hood fits 100% now hehe

warmmilk

iTrader: (5)

well obviously the bigger the pores in a filter, the more air will pass though, and the bigger and more dirt will enter the motor. who cares what's the "acceptable" size of a particle, i still prefer that to be held to a minimum. say what you want about this test, but the fact that foam filters are worse than cotton and paper filters when it comes to filtering still stands

Kwame

iTrader: (78)

Ah what's the difference anyway?

If everything had gone as planned with this car it would have been running an individual throttle body kit with very similar style foam filters on each trumpet or no filters at all.

warmmilk

iTrader: (5)

i guess, but since you have the chance, why not put something on there thats actually worth putting on, thats my 2 cents anyway...

jrotaryb

A blanket statement like foam is worse than cotton is not founded. I'd think there is a reason that Pipercross foam filters are used exclusively in WRC.

Another valuable piece of data, what is the percentage of dirt caught by the filter versus passed? Only the most accurate scientific scales could tell.

The point I'm trying to make, is you are basing your statements on this very flawed, poorly conceived and in-accurate test. Any popular filter, such as the HKS would be fine for Adam IMHO.

I'm done

warmmilk

iTrader: (5)

reason for that is that foam filters maintain the same flow and filtration when they get wet and dirty, whereas paper and cotton filters go down significanlty in both. same reason why foam filters are used in atv's...

just cause something is popular doesn't mean its any good. alot of people think its great just cause it has an hks label on it.

i guess we'll have to agree to disagree, in the end its Adam's car, and he does what he wants to it.

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

lolol my my, quite the heated debate!

Jon's right about that test btw - it really isn't worth much (to me at least)

As Jon mentioned, there is zero info about the surface area of the filter. The larger the surface area, the more anything, dirt, air, whatever, can pass through - irrespective of the size of the pores. As such, unless you create some sort of sliding scale (similar to a curve like you had in college), the results of "poor, good, etc" are sorta worthless. That's just one of the issues with the 'test'. It's a cool read but I don't put any stock in it personally. Others can, and that's their prerogative.

Yes you're right, foam filters are used extensively in ATV's, dirt bikes, rally, and all forms of motorsport around the world. Dirt bikes and ATV's for example, operate in far worse environments than my car does.

It's also important to note that the test was originally done in 1999, and IIRC was translated from Japanese originally. It's anyone's guess as to whether each firm still employs the same filter media, same production process and manufacturing location, etc. Apexi for example, has filed BK since the test was run and I think has had 2 different owners. Blitz doesn't make their stainless filter anymore IIRC. Lots of people **** on K&N because they are oiled cotton, and give example after example about blown engines, blown maf's, etc. Yet K&N is probably the largest aftermarket intake firm in the world, and I've run their stuff on tons of my own cars, and customer cars, and have never once had a blown MAF (or engine) as a result.

We could go on and on about which is better - time will tell if I am happy with the choice, and whatever the consequences may be