Ataru074

iTrader: (19)

about foam filters used in competition like WRC there is also the simple fact that a WRC engine isn't expected to last more than 2000 miles with pretty much a flat power delivery in the order of 300+ HP at almost any RPM and they are already restricted by a 32mm (1.26") intake flange and as you can imagine, to have that kind of power curve they need something that is a little more filtrating than a chicken net.. but not so much more, in every possible condition.
reliability is important to a point there.

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

true, but I have plenty of customers running in various classes of rally around the world, and most of them are running foam filters too. These guys don't have the budgets to build motors every season usually, let alone every 2k miles

Ivory

iTrader: (3)

I have a interesting foam filter story to share if anyone feels like a good laugh...ha ha...

here's a hint. ITB vacuum at 8000rpm > foam filter air intake rate



and on that note my car is running and thats about as best i can describe it...LOL

1cockyZ

iTrader: (46)

In any of my experience with foam filters there is always some sort of cage or metal mesh beneath it to keep that from happening.

Ivory

iTrader: (3)

yes that would seem to be obvious afterwards....lol

gabe3d

iTrader: (8)

Please do tell. Interested to hear about how a car runs on foam injection. hehe

Ivory

iTrader: (3)

lmao...more interesting to know how it smells...ha ha ha

Kwame

iTrader: (78)

That blows.

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

or sucks (bad joke)

seriously though, yeah, that is lame, sorry to see it. On a larger displacement engine with cams, running such high rpm, I wouldn't use just foam on the inlets, being so close to the heads. Alot of times you'll see a metal cage as mentioned, or spiral wound metal coil to keep the filter intact.

Ivory

iTrader: (3)

Being that the Jenvey ITBs aren't really fully released or designed for anything less than full race. These foam filters are generic and barely fit on the funnels I have. to add metal mesh and fit the filters back on, will be quite difficult.

Ultimately I need a box...

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

if you want to measure the OD of the horns they are using, I can get you in touch with somewhere to buy the right filters

Ivory

iTrader: (3)

probably 110mm. but Im not too worried. I accidentally bought too many pairs and i dont think I will run with them on for other than regular driving.

copec

From what I have read you want to have the air coming through the filter go back to laminar flow (back from turbulent) so that it can smoothly enter the bell mouth, so you want some space between the filter and the bell mouths of your ITBs.

I know of a company called ITG that makes kits with baseplates and a filter that goes on it. You have the baseplate cut, then you put it between the bell mouths and the runners and the filter hangs some distance out from the bell mouths (they call it a sausage filter). It seams like this is what you need if you don't want to built a full airbox.

http://www.itgairfilters.com/

http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/IT...433/index.html

Mike Wazowski

iTrader: (113)

Ivory

iTrader: (3)

I dont want to thread jack Adam any longer...so yeah... thanks for the info. /itb talk

Slickdvl

iTrader: (1)

just out of curiosity where is z1 located on Long Island? I could use a new shop to get work done at.

kgkeen101

What did you end up using for tuning? I read on the first page you had a UTEC, have ya thought about going standalone?

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

We're in St. James, however we do not get involved in work on any customer cars, we strictly deal with our own in house cars. Any parts you need though, let us know, as that's what we do

The only true, full standalones for this car are very, very expensive and are motorsport level products (Motec, I think Pectel does one as well, and I believe Bosch) which have way more capabilities than my simple car needs. All runs to date had been with the UTEC, however, I now have a Haltech in the car and will be tuning with that going forward

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

Well, it runs!

Yesterday was supposed to be the big tuning day...turned out to be a big day of chasing down gremlins. All in all a nightmare of a day that thankfully ended on an up note. On top of it all, it was raining. But the net result is I got to spend much of today driving her around finally. First time since December 2008, so it felt good.

First issue - the alternator will not charge without the stock gauge cluster being plugged in. Since I planned to install and setup the Racepak yesterday, I figured it wouldn't be a big deal to dyno the car without the factory cluster. We were just going to be using the GUI on the Haltech anyway. Got about 15 minutes from the shop and all of a sudden, I hear misfires, and it's just acting oddly. Quick check on the Haltech logger showed battery voltage dwindling. I turned around immediately and barely, I mean barely, got it back to the shop. Finally dawned on uis that the factory cluster was the culprit. Problem solved.

Next up, we get to the dyno and on the way, we are doing some minor tuning. Cruise is good, car is smooth, but under WOT she breaks up. Get to the dyno and start troubleshooting. The GOD%%amn, Mother%&*!ing Hondata "gasket" that I got...that I really knew wasn't going to do a damn thing anyway, didn't seal worth a damn. Air was leaking in there like mad. This is the second time I've gone to dyno the car in the past few months only to be spoiled by air leaks. Quick run back to the shop to get a new OEM gasket, swapped it in, and the car felt better, but still breaking up under heavy, quick load. Oh well, no dyno today. Get the car back to the shop and with a clear head, we start tackling the issue. Ended up swapping all the coils out, and viola, problem solved. By this time it was 9 pm, so we decided to do some street tuning for a little while, and iron it out as best we could. Put in an ultra lame timing map, didn't touch the cam timing, and adjusted fuel as needed. Can't really set the timing and vtc angles without being on the dyno anyway, as you're basically just guessing.

Got to the shop today, did some straightening up in the engine bay, and was able to take her out. Car ran perfectly, pulls great at any rpm level, throttle response is amazing with the manual cable in there. I'm still getting some sort of TPS CEL, even though it was supposed to have been flashed out, so we'll need to address that. Otherwise, everything is really good. I drove her all day today, and the car feels the same as it did the last time I drove it, albeit with much, much better throttle response. Since it's not really tuned, I am not going crazy at this point, just driving it around to see if anything comes up from 9 months of being stagnant. I cannot wait to get her on the dyno and see where things are at after tuning. I don't want to jinx things, but I have a feeling I'm going to be very pleased. This week we'll spend ironing out some little details, such as fabbing a proper bracket for the throttle cable, doing some grommets and putting the cowl, etc back on. As far as the gauge cluster, I am working on a solution with someone who knows what to do with it on a Z, so I expect to have that solved soon. Going to be a few weeks though before I can get her on a dyno, but at least I can happily report she's alive once again

New setup:

370cc injectors
Cosworth plenum
75mm throttle body with throttle cable
Haltech Platinum
Custom 3 inch intake with HKS filter

Next up:
4.3 final drive with Quaife install (should be back in my hands this week or next)
Racepak installed in place of factory cluster

03threefiftyz

iTrader: (25)

Damn....I have had one laying around for a while and figured I would put it in after cleaning up the plenum (been getting pretty bad blow by of late), but maybe I will hold off. They always worked well on s2k's and other honda apps, but I guess not so much for us.