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96.5 11.0.1 88MM BC Crank NA build

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Old Aug 4, 2011 | 07:08 PM
  #201  
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hurry up fool! lol
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Old Aug 4, 2011 | 07:30 PM
  #202  
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I am trying. I got an interesting pm today from a post on G35driver where I said my motor would be available someday from someone at a magazine that will hopefully help get this done.
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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 03:05 PM
  #203  
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The motor has been dropped off at the machine shop. MOVEMENT FINALLY!!!!!!!!
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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 03:27 PM
  #204  
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Finally is right, did anything start to rust because it sat too long? lol
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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 03:55 PM
  #205  
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Nope it was stored inside (I get that that was a joke)
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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 04:18 PM
  #206  
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dust perhaps?
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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 04:22 PM
  #207  
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Microscopic space dust.

They'll be disassembling it and hot tanking it AGAIN.
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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 04:27 PM
  #208  
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its no big deal if its not assembled....get to it bro!!!!!!!!
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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 04:55 PM
  #209  
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I want to have more cool kids like me and coupe to talk about NA build problems with! I do look forward to helping and harassing you about the process to getting your car right, haha
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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 04:57 PM
  #210  
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Also, look into deleting stuff on your coolant pipes, I am pissed that I learned about it not that my engine is back in...
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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 04:57 PM
  #211  
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Mine should have been done months ago. really like February.

I'll be thrilled to be harassed by in the car issues.

Realistically, minus just the two (per head) timing components what should I ask to sell them? (<30k oem heads that are working perfectly)
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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 04:58 PM
  #212  
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I did the coolant delete when I installed the MREV.

Thanks
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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 05:00 PM
  #213  
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did you do the oil cooler one?
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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 05:15 PM
  #214  
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e30, i didnt comprehend what you were trying to ask in your previous post.....selling something?

and i baleted everything but the hoses that go to the upper plenum by the TB.
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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 05:30 PM
  #215  
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ya, capped the ones going to the TB when I had the motor apart, I could see myself getting bored one night and at least capping the on that goes across the front timing cover. I am all about efficiency and I am pissed I completely over looked coolant lines, it is so obvious...

I am with you, that 30k thing I am lost on
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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 06:20 PM
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Oil cooler will go when the motor goes in and a real oil cooler will replace it.



I am asking what a reasonable price for the OEM heads from the outgoing motor.
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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 06:28 PM
  #217  
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oh! lol I have no idea, I want an oil cooler, but another $500, jesus!
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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 06:47 PM
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Machinist charges anywhere from 700-1000 for cores as a reference. I think 500 wouldn't be a bad starting point.

If i'm not mistaken you guys are talking about the oil coolant bypass line which is meant to warm up not cool the oil. So removing this line and adding an oil cooler has seperate purpose.
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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 06:58 PM
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Living in Az where it never gets under 60 do I need to warm anything?

I asked for 500 shipped minus the timing parts I need to transfer and he acted like I was out of line.
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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 07:10 PM
  #220  
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I'm not saying if you need it or not. That's for you to judge. I know for my engine, that if my oil is not at 150 or more than it doesn't run well. Anyways, I'm just clarifying that the functionality of that coolant line that goes to the oil is not for cooling like you said, but for the opposite.

Bad buyer i suppose, yours comes with cams and valvetrain that are in good condition. I asked a buddy of mine that is in need of one and if you are willing to ship to cali then it might work out.

Last edited by gabe3d; Aug 16, 2011 at 07:11 PM.
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