Just when you think you are done spending money...
But that didnt mean Id run one built, FI or NA.
03-30-2011, 08:24 AM
#25
I am not saying me going 145 was responsible or safe, but I wanted to see how well the car handled and how well it was aligned on the new suspension.
AcidJake, I do hope to see you guys at those autoX events, I hope to have the car broken in, tuned and ready to race by the end of april or early may. I am very excited to have a car I can trust to drive there, race and come back in. Would have been nice to have those mb battles for some good track tires, but I think they have a good home now anyways.
Last edited by Classy; 03-30-2011 at 08:29 AM.
03-30-2011, 12:17 PM
#26
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: SoFlo
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
^ Check my edit above.
It's a topic that has been discussed a lot over the years, especially in the FI section. Here's a few quotes that discuss the risks and arguments against running an undampened crank pulley such as the UR pulley, as well as the reasons/benefits for running an ATI or Fluidampr crank pulley.
The UR pulley just isn't worth the risk IMO, especially if the OP is building his motor.
It's a topic that has been discussed a lot over the years, especially in the FI section. Here's a few quotes that discuss the risks and arguments against running an undampened crank pulley such as the UR pulley, as well as the reasons/benefits for running an ATI or Fluidampr crank pulley.
The UR pulley just isn't worth the risk IMO, especially if the OP is building his motor.
03-31-2011, 09:02 AM
#29
Man, the build is looking to cost about $1,000 more than I ball parked, but oh well, Cams have shipped and the order for the rest should be put in today. I will probably check plugs, compression test and begin light tear down of the motor this weekend after I tow it to where we will be doing the work on it. I hope to have the car fire up for the first time in the next 2 weeks, I will try to remember to bring my camera to add some color to this thread!
03-31-2011, 10:06 AM
#31
I did, but I didn't add in the ATI pulley, rev up oil pump, those 2 are enough to throw it off alittle, haha, I do plan on replacing the water and power steering pump (power steering has been making noises here and there) I don't really see machine work being that bad, and tuning will be all that will be left until I find out something I need or am missing!
04-11-2011, 04:55 AM
#33
UPDATE!!!! there is so much irony here it isn't even funny, most of the posts in this thread were talking about what ended up being a problem, my UR pulley has a good notch in it where the key has been twisting on it, it has been blowing out oil through the notch. The motor is out and almost ripped all the way down... I stripped out a flywheel bolt and we are having a rough time drilling into it, F$!@ing torx bits... Anywho, I plan to have the engine completely torn down today and see what the damage is.
Last edited by Classy; 08-09-2011 at 11:48 AM.
04-11-2011, 05:26 AM
#34
Registered User
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Tampa,Fl
Posts: 1,115
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I know this is a little late in the thread but when you dumped the oil was there any metal shavings in it?
Also, now that you have the car apart does the rod have any signs of over heating ? Discoloration or burn marks ?
Not sure if you had the crank looked at but i would def check for scaring and make sure it balances correctly since you drive pulley was messed up.
Also, now that you have the car apart does the rod have any signs of over heating ? Discoloration or burn marks ?
Not sure if you had the crank looked at but i would def check for scaring and make sure it balances correctly since you drive pulley was messed up.
04-11-2011, 12:33 PM
#35
With Megan long tube headers and the Mrev2 w/ 5/16th spacer, I peaked out at 310whp/280wtq on a DJ. That is with my fully built engine with the C8R cams.
If you port and polish the upper plenum, you can possibly exceed that with a good tune. If you don't exceed it, you will likely make more power to redline than I did with that setup. Mine dropped off severely after 6500rpm. Z1, SG, and some others have extended power beyond there with a non-rev lower with porting and expanding the manifold volume.
If you port and polish the upper plenum, you can possibly exceed that with a good tune. If you don't exceed it, you will likely make more power to redline than I did with that setup. Mine dropped off severely after 6500rpm. Z1, SG, and some others have extended power beyond there with a non-rev lower with porting and expanding the manifold volume.
04-12-2011, 11:50 AM
#36
With Megan long tube headers and the Mrev2 w/ 5/16th spacer, I peaked out at 310whp/280wtq on a DJ. That is with my fully built engine with the C8R cams.
If you port and polish the upper plenum, you can possibly exceed that with a good tune. If you don't exceed it, you will likely make more power to redline than I did with that setup. Mine dropped off severely after 6500rpm. Z1, SG, and some others have extended power beyond there with a non-rev lower with porting and expanding the manifold volume.
If you port and polish the upper plenum, you can possibly exceed that with a good tune. If you don't exceed it, you will likely make more power to redline than I did with that setup. Mine dropped off severely after 6500rpm. Z1, SG, and some others have extended power beyond there with a non-rev lower with porting and expanding the manifold volume.
Here is a Dyno of everything I had before the current rebuild minus the clutch and flywheel.
I did start to drop after 6500, BUT I am hoping that was the cams not really pulling anymore. In all honesty, I REALLY want to make a custom intake manifold. I spent 2 months in Iraq reading and learning about intake manifold dynamics and so on and I feel I can make a much better manifold than anything I see in the 350Z market, the CJM is the only one I like the design on, but it looks like some sacrifices were made to make it fit. I just wish either I or someone I knew had the ability to help me make this manifold...
ANYWHO, Progress has stalled because of the flywheel bolt that is still stuck in my flywheel, hoping to finally at least break the head off today and hope my JWT flywheel is going to be fine... IF!!! I can get it out and the flywheel off, I will most likely rip the engine down tonight and tomorrow, finally remember to bring my camera and add some pictures haha. I am planning on taking it to the machine shop ASAP and getting it in just a day or 2 later. MIGHT be re-assembling this weekend and possibly be breaking it in next week, but in all honesty, the engine probably wont be in for another week...
04-12-2011, 01:57 PM
#37
Registered User
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: F@R @W@Y
Posts: 254
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The drop off isn't the cams. Its the manifold. I have a custom manifold from SFR and dynod before and after on the same dyno on the same day. Stock manifold dropped off till redline. The SFR manifold peaked 5whp more and carried on to my 72000 redline. I made 30whp at redline on stock cams. And no other changes to anything.
04-12-2011, 08:38 PM
#38
The drop off isn't the cams. Its the manifold. I have a custom manifold from SFR and dynod before and after on the same dyno on the same day. Stock manifold dropped off till redline. The SFR manifold peaked 5whp more and carried on to my 72000 redline. I made 30whp at redline on stock cams. And no other changes to anything.
04-13-2011, 09:48 AM
#40
The drop off isn't the cams. Its the manifold. I have a custom manifold from SFR and dynod before and after on the same dyno on the same day. Stock manifold dropped off till redline. The SFR manifold peaked 5whp more and carried on to my 72000 redline. I made 30whp at redline on stock cams. And no other changes to anything.
Last edited by Zazz93; 04-13-2011 at 09:49 AM.