BC Cams + Port + ART Pipe. Dyno... lower than expected
#21
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thanks KA24DE. I will check the vacuum on Monday. by the way, I just got KA24DE that is going to swap into my Lemon Race Nissan s12. Haha
SD: I heard of those buckets. But I just re-use my old ones. since I have another set of heads. I was able to mix and match all the buckets for the correct valve clearance. So I didnt feel like spending another extra $400+ for all new 24 buckets.
SD: I heard of those buckets. But I just re-use my old ones. since I have another set of heads. I was able to mix and match all the buckets for the correct valve clearance. So I didnt feel like spending another extra $400+ for all new 24 buckets.
#23
Exhaust ports has been gasket matched. I agree with the long tube headers, but I dont feel like spending more and more money for gainning a few extra horses tho. I think Stillen headers are not bad.
Thanks for the info, SD. I have ever taking out the cams again. I will definitely try that!
Thanks for the info, SD. I have ever taking out the cams again. I will definitely try that!
#24
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I do have a built bottom end, but it has been kinda proven it doesn't really make power on our engines. I have bigger cams than you, but I still think you should be making more power. If those heads are off the G35 I think they are, he made 310HP with those. I still think it needs to be tuned better
#25
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try a set of PPE LTH for the DE when they go into production. I'm having issues with my TB not opening fully hence the lowend drop. http://g35driver.com/forums/intake-e...e-headers.html
This a sameday before and after the only thing changed were the headers. I had momentum headers and ART pipes run 17 (before) and 25 (after). Runs 3 and 25 are comparing my 1st tune in 09 to now.
I'm using mild JWT S1 cams with HR buckets.
This a sameday before and after the only thing changed were the headers. I had momentum headers and ART pipes run 17 (before) and 25 (after). Runs 3 and 25 are comparing my 1st tune in 09 to now.
I'm using mild JWT S1 cams with HR buckets.
Last edited by denchan350gt; 11-20-2011 at 11:13 AM.
#26
1st post ftw!
I know you guys don't pay much attention to the maxima crowd but a custom intake manifold made big gains. Maybe you all already know about this:
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/6...yno-gains.html
&
http://forums.maxima.org/dyno-discus...ml#post7938417
Dyno gains versus Vias deleted stock IM and stock MAF/intake within 15 minutes of each other, same dyno, same day, same all else. The custom IM/3.5" tune could use work. It goes into the high 11s around 3500-4000, and is mid 12s otherwise. Stock manifold tune is absolute perfection. 13.5 at 3000, settling down to 13.0 by 4500 and sitting at 12.8-13.0 to redline.
Exact power mod list from filter to exhaust then electronics:
Vias delete stock IM (later home-made IM)
3" intake and stock MAF (later LRMAF and 3.5" intake)
NWP IM spacers
Cattman V3 Headers/Y-pipe(not long tube)
Cattman 3" catback with extra resonator
UTEC with Tuner to 7000RPM redline
Alot of the NA builds on here seem to have a sharp decline after 6k looks to me like it's because of the intake manifold...
I am not the most knowledgeable i'v been reading like crazy on the NA builds here. It looks like most lose power after 6.2k. I think with some aggressive cams 272 or 283.5 and this intake manifold is would get very close to 300 with stock heads and block.
I'd like to see this IM with the LS2 TB(90mm), 8k redline and 283.5s...If it can hit 300 or over with no 'real' headwork or engine works that is sick.
Thoughts?
I know you guys don't pay much attention to the maxima crowd but a custom intake manifold made big gains. Maybe you all already know about this:
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/6...yno-gains.html
&
http://forums.maxima.org/dyno-discus...ml#post7938417
Dyno gains versus Vias deleted stock IM and stock MAF/intake within 15 minutes of each other, same dyno, same day, same all else. The custom IM/3.5" tune could use work. It goes into the high 11s around 3500-4000, and is mid 12s otherwise. Stock manifold tune is absolute perfection. 13.5 at 3000, settling down to 13.0 by 4500 and sitting at 12.8-13.0 to redline.
Exact power mod list from filter to exhaust then electronics:
Vias delete stock IM (later home-made IM)
3" intake and stock MAF (later LRMAF and 3.5" intake)
NWP IM spacers
Cattman V3 Headers/Y-pipe(not long tube)
Cattman 3" catback with extra resonator
UTEC with Tuner to 7000RPM redline
Alot of the NA builds on here seem to have a sharp decline after 6k looks to me like it's because of the intake manifold...
I am not the most knowledgeable i'v been reading like crazy on the NA builds here. It looks like most lose power after 6.2k. I think with some aggressive cams 272 or 283.5 and this intake manifold is would get very close to 300 with stock heads and block.
I'd like to see this IM with the LS2 TB(90mm), 8k redline and 283.5s...If it can hit 300 or over with no 'real' headwork or engine works that is sick.
Thoughts?
Last edited by Torgus; 11-26-2011 at 03:53 PM.
#27
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iTrader: (7)
Maxima's have a very different IM, and have much more room to make a better one.
Z1 did the 90mm throttle body, The throttle body is a bottleneck, unfortunately, I want to keep my cruise control because it is still my DD.
Look at the NA builds in this section, everyone is making power to about 6700-7k+ Which is mostly cams, and the appropriate breathing mods. Unfortunately it is really hard to make power past 7k with our motors, and until someone successfully makes a good production ITB setup, with some monster cams, and some large longtube headers, I think we will be limited to about a 7k redline.
I made power to 6800 RPM personally, and unless I wanted to buy the now discontinued SG headers, and custom fab an IM for a 90MM GM TB and go with even larger cams, I would probably make it to 7200ish, so about $5k for 400 more RPM until redline. I am staying where I am for engine power, the only thing I plan on changing is an exhaust, and if I make power, that is great, and I really dont expect a difference. You have to realize when you are spending too much money to make only a little power is a waste. I try to steer people away from going NA with the VQ35 because there is not alot of potential in it. I have rambled abit here and I am sorry if thoughts became jumbled....
Z1 did the 90mm throttle body, The throttle body is a bottleneck, unfortunately, I want to keep my cruise control because it is still my DD.
Look at the NA builds in this section, everyone is making power to about 6700-7k+ Which is mostly cams, and the appropriate breathing mods. Unfortunately it is really hard to make power past 7k with our motors, and until someone successfully makes a good production ITB setup, with some monster cams, and some large longtube headers, I think we will be limited to about a 7k redline.
I made power to 6800 RPM personally, and unless I wanted to buy the now discontinued SG headers, and custom fab an IM for a 90MM GM TB and go with even larger cams, I would probably make it to 7200ish, so about $5k for 400 more RPM until redline. I am staying where I am for engine power, the only thing I plan on changing is an exhaust, and if I make power, that is great, and I really dont expect a difference. You have to realize when you are spending too much money to make only a little power is a waste. I try to steer people away from going NA with the VQ35 because there is not alot of potential in it. I have rambled abit here and I am sorry if thoughts became jumbled....
#28
Maxima's have a very different IM, and have much more room to make a better one.
Z1 did the 90mm throttle body, The throttle body is a bottleneck, unfortunately, I want to keep my cruise control because it is still my DD.
Look at the NA builds in this section, everyone is making power to about 6700-7k+ Which is mostly cams, and the appropriate breathing mods. Unfortunately it is really hard to make power past 7k with our motors, and until someone successfully makes a good production ITB setup, with some monster cams, and some large longtube headers, I think we will be limited to about a 7k redline.
I made power to 6800 RPM personally, and unless I wanted to buy the now discontinued SG headers, and custom fab an IM for a 90MM GM TB and go with even larger cams, I would probably make it to 7200ish, so about $5k for 400 more RPM until redline. I am staying where I am for engine power, the only thing I plan on changing is an exhaust, and if I make power, that is great, and I really dont expect a difference. You have to realize when you are spending too much money to make only a little power is a waste. I try to steer people away from going NA with the VQ35 because there is not alot of potential in it. I have rambled abit here and I am sorry if thoughts became jumbled....
Z1 did the 90mm throttle body, The throttle body is a bottleneck, unfortunately, I want to keep my cruise control because it is still my DD.
Look at the NA builds in this section, everyone is making power to about 6700-7k+ Which is mostly cams, and the appropriate breathing mods. Unfortunately it is really hard to make power past 7k with our motors, and until someone successfully makes a good production ITB setup, with some monster cams, and some large longtube headers, I think we will be limited to about a 7k redline.
I made power to 6800 RPM personally, and unless I wanted to buy the now discontinued SG headers, and custom fab an IM for a 90MM GM TB and go with even larger cams, I would probably make it to 7200ish, so about $5k for 400 more RPM until redline. I am staying where I am for engine power, the only thing I plan on changing is an exhaust, and if I make power, that is great, and I really dont expect a difference. You have to realize when you are spending too much money to make only a little power is a waste. I try to steer people away from going NA with the VQ35 because there is not alot of potential in it. I have rambled abit here and I am sorry if thoughts became jumbled....
So why did his Hp DIE at 6.2k? I have read many NA build any many seem to suffer after 6.2k.
Now granted every dyno is somewhat different but the maxima did not die off @ 6.2k it kept rather straight which makes me think cams were the limiting factor. Also the max doesn't have cams or head work.
the 350 is at 250hp at 7k and max was at 276.
Do you think it is all the dyno?
I don't have some boner for maximas I am just curious for the large differences.
#31
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iTrader: (8)
Pat, sorry to hear about your predicament but looks like you got some very good gains on the right without losing anything on the left. If you are just interested in widening your rev range then perhaps you can add the cosworth. Take a look at the attached dyno comparing the cosworth to the MD setup. The blue section that I've highlighted probably could be tuned better to not have that drop off, but we didn't spend much time on it since it was for testing. BTW this is with the tomei cams 264.
Regarding the other topic. Can't definitively contribute the benefits to 90mm TB but my engine ran a GM 90mm cable TB with a M800, different tuner, and Cosworth Manifold and it made power all the way to 7400rpm and slowly tapering off.
Regarding the other topic. Can't definitively contribute the benefits to 90mm TB but my engine ran a GM 90mm cable TB with a M800, different tuner, and Cosworth Manifold and it made power all the way to 7400rpm and slowly tapering off.
#32
Headers and intake manifold are going to be were the major power is. Don't believe me? Look in all the N/A threads of guys using stock manifold, large cams and expensive head work, all to barely achieve 300whp.
And I can't understand why anyone would run shorty headers on an all motor build, when places like Kromer Kraft would have made you a custom long tube set for less the cost of your headwork. Those Longtubes PPE look promising, especially considering the stepped primaries.
As far as the intake manifold is concerned, The throttle body isn't the major restriction, and I wouldn't waste my time on Cosworth's garbage manifold. (Sorry Gabe) No point in extending the "powerband" when you're making less power overall. I would personally look into working over the non revup lower manifold, or testing something like Kinetic's new intake manifold which offers a larger internal volume. Maybe someone can figure out how to adapt the New FWD HR single TB manifold to the regular RWD DE?
And I can't understand why anyone would run shorty headers on an all motor build, when places like Kromer Kraft would have made you a custom long tube set for less the cost of your headwork. Those Longtubes PPE look promising, especially considering the stepped primaries.
As far as the intake manifold is concerned, The throttle body isn't the major restriction, and I wouldn't waste my time on Cosworth's garbage manifold. (Sorry Gabe) No point in extending the "powerband" when you're making less power overall. I would personally look into working over the non revup lower manifold, or testing something like Kinetic's new intake manifold which offers a larger internal volume. Maybe someone can figure out how to adapt the New FWD HR single TB manifold to the regular RWD DE?
#33
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^I agree with KA24DE as well and it was the reason why I abandoned the cosworth for the non-revup lower and spacer. I'm sure i would have hit a higher peak HP with the cosworth given some modification but at the expense of a significant loss down low which was not worth it for me. I think the LTH will be a good upgrade for you but I'm not entirely sure it'll meet your goal of extending your rev range. BTW z1motorsports is doing a test on a broad range of intake manifold for NA and FI application, the result should be interesting for you.
#34
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I'm just curious to know if the MREV2 is killing power up top. Looking at my dyno's, power fell of sharply after 6200 rpm but had great gains in the mid-range. My pre MREV2 dyno didn't show much of a drop in the big end.
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