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Decent Path to NA..?

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Old 09-12-2012, 12:12 PM
  #61  
hydeciel
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Originally Posted by doshoru
Biggest points about Titanium:

1) Lighter
2) Much more difficult to weld/repair -- many exhaust shops will not be equipped to weld it.
3) $$$$$$
Great points, personally, I probably won't go for a titanium exhaust maybe a semi.
Old 09-12-2012, 04:23 PM
  #62  
Classy
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Here I sit on the porcelain throne and catch up on this post, I am happy to read the responses, I went over your mods for the future again, and I kinda stopped on the intake portion, the 3 inch MAF thing, I have seen issues tuning it, don't ever buy parts from Z1 auto, they have been black listed and are terrible with customer service, I do believe GTM still makes a 3 inch MAF but be prepared to pay for the GTM name...

For what you are doing, I think you are aiming at more of a samco intake hose and whatever MAF you chose to an 06 filter box, for fun, there are some sites (I would need to dig them up) that sell a bigger air inlet trumpet opening thing, the proper name escapes me...

As for cooling stuff, terresmac is an excellent resource as he has been racing for years and could give some great input on that stuff.

I see you dumped building the bottom end, that is a large amount of the cost in an NA build, and you can just swap out the bottom end out for one from a junk yard if you ever pop the motor, as for the rev up oil pump, I think you are fine with a de one, you won't likely be revving past 7k, probably make power to 6700ish and have a rev limiter shortly after that.

Last edited by Classy; 09-12-2012 at 04:32 PM.
Old 09-12-2012, 04:35 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by hydeciel
.


terrasmak, I would love to get video or a sound bit of your setup! We seem to be of the same mind. All I am really concerned about is the sound regulations at certain tracks, having the ability to tone it down if I need. Do you think you'll be within sound regulations with the HFCs?
Would I need to do the same mod as you with the Dynomax to pass sound regs?



I am definitely going with the XYZ with HFC and single exhaust! The cool things about Ti (Titanium, I am assuming) is that it is more resistant to heat, and stable with heat and cold, plus it cools down quicker, and of course lighter. At the same time, I may not see any signifigant advantage to it vs stainless steel.

Thanks guys, you helped me solve a problem I've been obsessing over for the last few weeks!
Of course, more to come, and more to consider!
even with stock cats , XYZPipe with resonated section and a single straight thru design exhaust , you will blow sound at most tracks. HFCs is a lot louder than a stock cat.

One good thing about my motordyne single , I can easily swap out tail section behind the axle. That is where a cambered muffler will come into play, then put a turn down on it , that I can move. The sound mic is usually mounted on one side of the track, I want to be able to angle the exhaust away from the mic at any track.
Old 09-12-2012, 04:49 PM
  #64  
hydeciel
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Originally Posted by Classy
Here I sit on the porcelain throne and catch up on this post, I am happy to read the responses, I went over your mods for the future again, and I kinda stopped on the intake portion, the 3 inch MAF thing, I have seen issues tuning it, don't ever buy parts from Z1 auto, they have been black listed and are terrible with customer service, I do believe GTM still makes a 3 inch MAF but be prepared to pay for the GTM name...

I am trying hard not to bestow my personal views on the 3 inch MAF, but what I will say is I went with a Fujita because it had I want to say 2 7/8 piping all the way through with a welded in MAF bung, at the end of the day, there will be a bottle neck in the tb/plenum. For what you are doing, I think you are aiming at more of a samco intake hose and whatever MAF you chose to an 06 filter box, for fun, there are some sites (I would need to dig them up) that sell a bigger air inlet trumpet opening thing, the proper name escapes me...

As for cooling stuff, terresmac is an excellent resource as he has been racing for years and could give some great input on that stuff.

I see you dumped building the bottom end from your build, I agree with that, and the best part, you snap a rod or bust a piston, as long as you didnt tear up the heads/ cams, just find another bottom end and swap it, I see you still have the rev up oil pump, to be honest, I am not sure how needed it is and how big of a PITA it would be to put it in, you are probably going to have a rev limiter between 6800-7k and you should be fine with the de one
Oh Classy, funny I just finished reading your thread on Exhausts, haha. I have a few questions for you on that later, hah. Alright, back to the task at hand!

As for intake, this area I've done a great deal of research on, but man do I hit a lot of walls! I know the TB/Plenum is a bottleneck with minimal solutions, except ITB or maybe Carbotron plenum (thoughts from SG's post?). Even if I figure the plenum out the TB would be the bottleneck. Anyway out?

As for terresmac, I'll read through his threads tonight.

I keep hearing that the rev up oil pump is a PITA to install. I'll have to look at the service manual and see for myself, because it isn't clicking. I might move the rev up oil pump to the last stage of my build if it is involved, because I figured the cams and valve springs and shim will be a PITA. Might as well do the rev up oil pump.

Should I consider upgrading the rods at all? I am starting to hear whispers that it it may be a good idea to do for reliability and longevity.

As for the exhaust, now I am having a hard time picking between the Greddy or AAM exhaust. I hear the Greddy is awesome for sound reduction, so I am thinking about doing that. What size should I get 60mm-80mm?

Also, isn't AAM the Maryland based shop who was blacklisted?

Last edited by hydeciel; 09-12-2012 at 04:59 PM.
Old 09-12-2012, 05:28 PM
  #65  
Classy
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I really don't know about AAM being black listed, the AAM exhaust is a mostly straight 3 inch exhaust with vibrant mufflers

The greddy I was in the same choice with these 2, I think the greddy sounds better but seems to have alittle less ground clearance, if that isn't an issue, I like the greddy
Old 09-12-2012, 05:42 PM
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hydeciel
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Originally Posted by Classy
I really don't know about AAM being black listed, the AAM exhaust is a mostly straight 3 inch exhaust with vibrant mufflers

The greddy I was in the same choice with these 2, I think the greddy sounds better but seems to have alittle less ground clearance, if that isn't an issue, I like the greddy
I did drop the car about an inch, but it isn't that low. I don't intend to slam the car. Just to get a lower center of gravity. I just have to worry about the car bottoming out on the exhaust. I've had no issue at VIR with bottoming out at all. How much does it come down from stock?

I am curious how loud a resonator on the XYZ pipe, then the Greddy TI-C with it's resonator/silencer will be.

Last edited by hydeciel; 09-12-2012 at 06:09 PM.
Old 09-12-2012, 09:55 PM
  #67  
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thermostat, as for the finals go with nissan or central 20
76mm should be great, but if greddy don't offer it then you should get the 80mm
60mm is stock exhaust diameter, probably too restrictive and won't yield to any gains
I don't know, the AAM and the greddy sound the same IMO, I would've gotten the one with
the more tempting price tag
Old 09-13-2012, 02:47 PM
  #68  
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FYI, Jason from Carbotron is a dick. I asked him about his plenum and he told me to go buy a 240sx, so he can go **** himself. Don't expect much from him unless you're willing to pay 2k or more. ITBs are a better solution, but you'll have to go big dog on your ECU.
Old 09-13-2012, 04:37 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by kacz07
FYI, Jason from Carbotron is a dick. I asked him about his plenum and he told me to go buy a 240sx, so he can go **** himself. Don't expect much from him unless you're willing to pay 2k or more. ITBs are a better solution, but you'll have to go big dog on your ECU.
I am about to say screw it and do Jenvey ITB with Haltech!
Old 09-14-2012, 05:28 AM
  #70  
hydeciel
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Forgetting about power for a minute and back to reliability. Based off kacz07's comments, researching IPP, and comparing cost of cams, JWT Springs and Shims, and other upgrades. I think I might just order one of IPP's long blocks! The prices are very reasonable, plus it is a fresh engine and has a number of mods currently on my list! Looking at a stage two DE. What do you guys think?

In addition, knowing me and thinking ahead, there is potential I will eventually upgrade to a Vortech SC (this won't occur for atleast two years by my estimates if it ever happens). Do I need to consider the cams I select with this engine? Maybe a happy median between NA and SC as far as cams go? I know CAMs with better lift can build more power without the SC requiring to go higher in PSI, in fact one can go lower.

That being said, if my Z is where I want it to be with NA power. I will not upgrade to a SC. I am more about a balance between power, reliability, and agility (suspension). I am a road course guy. Not really interested in straight line power like drag racing applications. I don't need 500rwhp, I suspect I will be happy with 300rwhp. Need more top end power, definitely, and a tad more low end power.

Just updated, the front page with IPP Stage 2 VQ35 Long Block.

Cheers,

Mike

Last edited by hydeciel; 09-14-2012 at 05:45 AM.
Old 09-14-2012, 07:49 AM
  #71  
rich2342
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What does the stage 2 block run? what does it include?
Old 09-14-2012, 09:39 AM
  #72  
hydeciel
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Here you go:
Stage 2 VQ35 Long Block - Nissan 350z

Wiseco Pistons .020 over
Eagle/SCAT H Beam Rods
ARP Rod Bolts
Block inspected and cleaned
Block redecked
Block Bored and Honed using a Torque Plate
Rotating assembly balanced
Crank magnafluxed and the journals micro-polished
New Moly coated Race Spec main bearings installed
New Moly coated Race Spec rod bearings installed
Block assembled
New OEM Head Gaskets
Heads inspected and cleaned
Heads redecked
Ported exhaust and intake runners
JWT S1, S2, C2, or "S7 RevUp" Upgraded Cams (Leaning C2)
JWT Heavy Duty Valve Springs
5 angle radius cut valve job
New OEM Valve stem seals installed
Valve Stem Heights set
Cold Clearance set for cams
Heads assembled
New OEM Rev-up Oil Pump

Optional Upgrades:
Ceramic/Moly Piston Coating - $250
ARP VQ35 L19 Head & Main Stud Kit - 03-06 Nissan 350z - $550

Last edited by hydeciel; 09-14-2012 at 09:43 AM.
Old 09-14-2012, 11:19 AM
  #73  
PhoenixBazoli
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I love the smell of a new build
you should go with the S7 cams
and I think the regular ARP studs save you some money
and tough enough to handle the SC future project
this build with the 3.9 finals and proper suspension should net great track numbers
I'm really excited where this thing going!
Old 09-14-2012, 11:52 AM
  #74  
hydeciel
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Originally Posted by PhoenixBazoli
I love the smell of a new build
you should go with the S7 cams
and I think the regular ARP studs save you some money
and tough enough to handle the SC future project
this build with the 3.9 finals and proper suspension should net great track numbers
I'm really excited where this thing going!
S7 Cams, eh? They are only for RevUp motors. I only have a DE.
As for the ARP studs, are you saying it already comes with ARP studs? and the upgrade isn't needed?

My suspension is already complete . This is what is installed now! Plus, I have video of me at VIR with telemetry data overlay. I have a video of me beating Audi R8s as well. On the video I posted, I was suffering from heavy fuel starvation. The black turbo Porsche wanted me to pass, but I kept lossing power so I ended up on her butt the entire time (yes, it was a she. Met her afterwards, she is pretty cool).

Suspension Mods:
Fortune Auto 510 - Dampening settings - Rear 25% (Soft) - Front 75% (Firm)
Megan Racing Adj. Front Up Control Arms
Megan Racing Adj. Rear Lower Arms
Megan Racing Rear Camber Arms
Megan Racing Rear Radius Arms
Tein Tie Rods + Angle Extension
MD Swaybars

Powertrain Mods:
Sikky Transmission Mount
ACT Lightweight flywheel
ACT Clutch
Nismo Pilot Bearing





Last edited by hydeciel; 09-14-2012 at 12:01 PM.
Old 09-14-2012, 12:40 PM
  #75  
rich2342
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Are you taking apart your engine yourself? Or is a shop doing it? Just curious how much in labor if I got a shortblock package for my oil burner.
Old 09-14-2012, 01:11 PM
  #76  
PhoenixBazoli
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I think you need a better lsd, it's slipping while cornering >.<
with the build paired with the 3.9 finals, you'll get to run that rear mounted engine at corners to the ground!
I don't think shops offer upgraded head studs with long blocks, however you need to ask them about that

btw, sexy suspension set up
are these megans any good?
I've been adviced with the spc's
but the megans sound alot cheaper
how much have you lowered your pony?

Last edited by PhoenixBazoli; 09-14-2012 at 01:12 PM.
Old 09-14-2012, 01:18 PM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by PhoenixBazoli
I think you need a better lsd, it's slipping while cornering >.<
with the build paired with the 3.9 finals, you'll get to run that rear mounted engine at corners to the ground!
I don't think shops offer upgraded head studs with long blocks, however you need to ask them about that

btw, sexy suspension set up
are these megans any good?
I've been adviced with the spc's
but the megans sound alot cheaper
how much have you lowered your pony?
I tried a few online translators, but I still have no f'ing clue what you just posted above.
Old 09-14-2012, 02:14 PM
  #78  
hydeciel
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Originally Posted by rich2342
Are you taking apart your engine yourself? Or is a shop doing it? Just curious how much in labor if I got a shortblock package for my oil burner.
Well, a slight change in plans, I am thinking of ordering a crate long block form IPP, the items above are the upgraded the IPP long block engine includes. I will be removing the old and installing the new motor myself. Great thing is that it is a direct drop in! So minimal labor (vs. disassembling the motor to install parts myself) cost even if I hired someone else to do it.

Originally Posted by PhoenixBazoli
I think you need a better lsd, it's slipping while cornering >.<
with the build paired with the 3.9 finals, you'll get to run that rear mounted engine <<< (What?) at corners to the ground!
I don't think shops offer upgraded head studs with long blocks, however you need to ask them about that

btw, sexy suspension set up
are these megans any good?
I've been adviced with the spc's
but the megans sound alot cheaper
how much have you lowered your pony?
Where do you see the LSD slipping(and how)? I've noticed no such issues and I also drift the car. It is a 1.5way clutch-based LSD so during decel, it does only lock at 50%.

IPP offers upgrade head studs. It is an option.

As for the Megans they are pretty nice, strong too. Lowered 1" IIRC

Last edited by hydeciel; 09-14-2012 at 02:19 PM.
Old 09-14-2012, 08:46 PM
  #79  
PhoenixBazoli
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I don't know, I heard some tire squeaking on the turns, but that's just the video
since you have no issues at the track then forget what I just said
oh sorry, I should've edited that
I meant rear engine mounted 911 turbo lol
and I meant "shops don't include upgraded regular ARP on there long blocks" when I said they don't offer them before

great, what size are the wheels you have on?
and do you have any problems with these coilovers?

Last edited by PhoenixBazoli; 09-14-2012 at 08:50 PM.
Old 10-18-2012, 01:40 PM
  #80  
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Subscribed. Interested to see what route you go. I may be doing an NA build or LS swap in the future.

Any updates?


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