kacz07

iTrader: (15)

Good to know. Radiator is a good cheap way to keep the engine cool. Not a bad investment, but not vital. I went with Koyo.

I plan to fully delete my AC system, too. Have the compressor out, just need to get the condenser out soon.

Classy

iTrader: (7)

I was going to go with mizu it has extended end tanks for mor capacity and is cheap, just make sure you want and are ready to ditch the ac system before you do it hah

kacz07

iTrader: (15)

It's crazy. My AC was never recharged after I got my engine in and I ran the car for 2 yrs without it. When I took out the compressor, I noticed the cabin felt cooler overall. The compressor was definitely making the engine bay hotter and translated into hotter air coming through the ducts.

Also, I picked up low profile engine bay trim from a guy on the Audi site I visit. Using that trim on the TT, there is a documented 20 degree temperature drop in engine bay temps, as opposed to the trim that seals in all the engine bay heat and sound. No water gets in or anything, so I assume it was more for sound than anything else. With my new setup, I'll need all the cool air I can get.

redline06

lol i was just commenting on the comment where Doshru said "Full list of HR improvements over the DE, lifted from elsewhere:................"
and Kacz07 added "and add a rev up oil pump"
Suggesting to add a Rev-up oil pump to an HR thats all, I was just saying that would be dumb to do. no need to get bent out of shape bro. Good luck with the build. I say go HR with long tube headers, intake, cams and tune. youll be very well off. then add an oil cooler and a better radiator to be safe. or if u wanna go harder get a VQ37VHR crank 35HR rods (or after market up to u of course) and custom pistons with a the wrist pin moved up so they clear the deck and u have yourself a cheap stroker long rod motor, cams+ springs and retainers youll rev to the moon with probably 360rwhp probably even more.

kacz07

iTrader: (15)

^he has a DE and is not doing an HR. Both Classy and I were posting about his current platform, not the HR, which is why are posts were relevant to his needs and yours seem off. No worries.

hydeciel

I feel like I have a great baseline for my stock engine outside of a dyno. Getting an understanding of the DEs characteristics on the track. I have some comments with some good and bad.
Just got back from Virginia International Raceway, a weekend long PDX/HPDE event with the Porche Club of America. I was pulling about from GT3s, Audi R8s, and more while in the turns. A great time. I will have some videos up soon.

Environmental Temp: 91+ degrees

Good - Great power/torque between 2nd and 3rd with the forth gear being useful in certain high speed turns

In the turns, the engine doesn't need more power. I could of utilized a bit more power coming out of a few corners on to a straight, but for the most part no real issues. When I was on the *** of these Porches and the R8. They'd let me pass, but it took forever to get past them. Need more top end power. Also, In the turns and coming out of turns onto straights. I was on the *** of these Porches and the R8. If it wasn't an Porches 911 Turbo (scary, scary fast on straights) I could keep on their tails.

I am thinking of doing a video commentary series on the Z off youtube. Using the telemetry data overlayed and commenting on what I learned.

Bad - other than the limp mode. 5th gear was very lacking on the straights at 95-121mph. Taking very long to pass.

My engine went into limp mode on the finish line straight when I was going 95-105 MPH in 5th gear at 5k the revs were bouncing off of it. When I got to the end of the straight and down shifted, no issues. On the back straight, I had no issues except once during my 27 min run, otherwise going 121mph towards the end of the straight.

It wasn't consistent happen, it seemed like it depended on how hard I pushed the transmission before the straight.

Pulled into the padlock and noticed the black battery ground wire was not secure, but didn't get a chance to go back onto the track, went home after that but saw no issues driving home or at any other point on the track.

Was it the ground wire or the transmission being too hot?
Needing a transmission and oil cooler (will get this eventually anyway)?

The ground wire seems like the culprit.

Ideas? Comments?

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

OP , do you have an Auto? If so, you really need a cooler for track use.

hydeciel

No, I have the 03 manual transmission.

hydeciel

Did a great deal more research. I have a preliminary list of parts. I wanted to see what you guys thought. I am going to do the build in four stages.
1-Efficiency Stage, 2-Intake Stage, 3-Exhaust Stage, 4-Engine Stage
Each stage will come with a before and after dyno with heat data. I go to the track a lot so I will be going to the track after each stage. Giving my review of the changes and how the changes effect the car on the track.

Efficiency Stage:

• Oil Cooler
• PS Cooler
• Pathfinder Bypass Cooling Mod
• RevUp Oil Pump
• Nismo 350Z Thermostat
• Fix for the fuel starvation issue on hard right turns (Ideas?)

Intake Stage:

• 06 Airbox
• MD MREV2
• Z1 3" MAF Housing (I see it mentioned a lot, but I can't find it anywhere for sale or it isn't clearly labeled as a 3" MAF housing)

Exhaust Stage:

• High Flow Cats (Need to narrow it down)
• Headers (Would do long tube headers, but I need to know the decibels @ 50ft))
• True Dual Exhaust (Need to find a lightweight)

Engine Stage:

• JWT or BC Valve Springs and Shims
• JWT or BC Cams (Need more research)

Current Mods:
ACT Clutch and Lightweight Flywheel
Kaaz LSD 1.5way
Sikky Trans Mount
Nismo Pilot Bearing
Fortune Auto 510 Coilovers
Megan Racing Camber and Toe arms

Suggestions?

INTIMAZY

iTrader: (15)

A few suggestions...

doshoru

iTrader: (3)

Headers -- I believe the Crawfords are the best for DE. Stillen also good. Stay away from Borla shorties, as even Borla will tell you they lose power.

If HFCs are a requirement, then LTH's are out of the question unless you're going to be welding some into your Y or mid pipe(s). This is actually my plan.

If HFCs are NOT a requirement, I would imagine that shorties + test pipes would be roughly the same decibels as LTH's.

The single exhaust may add more dB to the whole setup than anything else, but is an awesome weight loss. I had a non-resonated, semi-titanium JIC single that weighed in at roughly 14lbs, IIRC, a weight savings of ~50lbs. Removed it b/c the volume and drone were unbearable on a DD. Resonator may have helped the drone, but probably not the overall volume.

Classy

iTrader: (7)

I am at work, but something I did see is that you want a dual exhaust, but you are into racing, why not go long tube headers, a motordyne xyz y pipe with a catalytic converter, and a 3 inch single exhaust, I personally like the AAM, and the exhaust set up minus the cat I was considering for my car before I sold it. And you could pay $$ for a single titanium exhaust for more weight savings

Classy

iTrader: (7)

Another thing about the setup I described above, you will have the advantages of long tube headers, and with the high flow cat on the xyz, you will be kinda smog legal, and between the hfc, and the 2 mufflers in the AAM single you should be ok decibel wise, my 350z with longtubes and a knock off HKS it was alittle louder than I would have liked, but I think I blew the mufflers out too, haha

hydeciel

Doshoru, thanks for the input. It gives me a few leads to look into! I'll look more into the single exhaust, but I thought I saw some dynos of power loss from them. I could be mis-remembering though. I'll look into it as well.

Classy, I did not realize you could do that. I really wanted to do long tube headers, but I was worried about the high decibels. I think you solved my header delima! So I could do something like the following, having low enough sound for certain clubs and tracks, decibel 95db @ 50ft:

• PPE Long Tube Headers
• Motordyne XYZ w/ HFCs
• Single Exhaust

That is looking pretty good! Any reason to do True Dual Exhaust vs Single?

PhoenixBazoli

agree on the xyz with a cc, NA wise you're way better off with a single
I suggest agency power single ti, 75mm piping is perfect for your set up
a true dual is more restrictive and way much heavier
you might consider adding a 4.1 final gear to that list, it helped lots of track guys
around here and I think you gonna love it
why don't you go with a mishimoto low temp?
it's way cheaper and opens at even lower water temps, and you don't have to
worry about quality, you can't go wrong with mishimoto
about MAF, check out this thread

https://my350z.com/forum/intake-exha...stalled-6.html

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Thats basically what i will have finished up this weekend.

Motordyne single (shockwave or gamma) i have both
XYZ but with the resonater , will have cat for it soon for Global Time Attack
PPE Headers shoud be at my house when i get home fromm work.

It will be loud, really freaking loud. With the Gamma installed you will blow sound, the shockwave you will burry the sound meter.

I plan to weld up a chambered 3 inch Dynomax to a V band flange if i need to pass sound at certain tracks. It will also have a turndown on it.

doshoru

iTrader: (3)

Go with the XYZ with HFC module if you're going for a single exhaust. You can even swap the module out easily on/off track!

Just in case you're contemplating the Motordyne TDX v2 dual exhaust -- it won't work with the XYZ HFC module since the TDX v2 doesn't leave room for it. HOWEVER, they do sell mid-pipes with built in HFCs as an alternative. Just wanted to throw that out there since I didn't figure it out until after I had spent some money.

The semi-Ti JIC I bought was around $5-600 used, to give you an idea of cost. Full Ti would have probably been 2-3x that, and only netted an additional 5lbs reduction (14lbs vs 9lbs).

hydeciel

I looked into the Single Exhaust some more. It looks very solid! I think I am going to go that route. Now time to do my research on brands AP and AAM are the first to look at.

I was thinking about upgrading my final gear as well. I think I may go 3.9 final gear. I think 4.1 would be too agreesive. I will of course research more before I make a decision, get back to you. Anyone have any opinions for the final gear?

As for the Mishimoto, are you refering to the oil cooler or the thermostat? I will look more into the Mishimoto. I was using Stillen and Nismo more as place holders.

Thanks for the link! I'll look more into it when I get home.

terrasmak, I would love to get video or a sound bit of your setup! We seem to be of the same mind. All I am really concerned about is the sound regulations at certain tracks, having the ability to tone it down if I need. Do you think you'll be within sound regulations with the HFCs?
Would I need to do the same mod as you with the Dynomax to pass sound regs?


I am definitely going with the XYZ with HFC and single exhaust! The cool things about Ti (Titanium, I am assuming) is that it is more resistant to heat, and stable with heat and cold, plus it cools down quicker, and of course lighter. At the same time, I may not see any signifigant advantage to it vs stainless steel.

Thanks guys, you helped me solve a problem I've been obsessing over for the last few weeks!
Of course, more to come, and more to consider!

doshoru

iTrader: (3)

Biggest points about Titanium:

1) Lighter
2) Much more difficult to weld/repair -- many exhaust shops will not be equipped to weld it.
3) $$$$$$

hydeciel

As for keeping track of changes and updates, to keep everything clear and well documented. I updated my original post with the current updates and changes. Refer to first post for the current status of the build. This is just for documentation purposes.