tylerxfire

iTrader: (15)

enough said....u really dont know what u are talking about in this department so just dont act like u do...If the car is done properly there is no reason it wont hold up and be reliable no matter who builds it..go read some more info

halfass872

iTrader: (35)

Then you have no business with adding any futhur input into the thread!

Why would you try to talk down something you obviously aren't familiar with!?!?! Esp when the OP is asking for experienced help, and is already concerned about making the best out of his situation.

Dr. Venture

iTrader: (19)

hmm....check out the thread then.

https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...iends-g35.html

went on to do 4 more. only thing i do not do is tune them.

halfass872

iTrader: (35)

So i guess what you are trying to say is, no one EXCEPT YOU can "properly" add FI to a non FI car.

Dr. Venture

iTrader: (19)

i should of explained a lil better. when i said that i did not mean the work done specifically by me and me alone. i meant that when buying a car from someone let alone being the 3rd owner you really do not know who and where does or did the work. I did not mean that i am the best and i have to do all the work myself. Just saying you never know whose grimy hands been under the hood when buying a car. I see it all the time with customers buying cars that are thought to be top notch until i throw it on the lift and then you find everything wrong with it.

carscrainer

iTrader: (1)

The second guy sold the car because well first off his girlfriend was pregnant and second off he bought a work van the night before on ebay. He does foundations in florida. I went to his house to get the car and he has money. 300k house easy with 5 car garage. The first guy who bought it and put all the work into the car is an older gentelman and drives a z06 now lol. he says his hips went bad but the flat seats in the z06 are comfortable. haha I just filed my taxes today and will have cash in 2 weeks so I cant get to the dyno until after that but It is the first thing on my list of things to do. For now I am just driving my dodge stealth twin turbo. It has all wheel drive and is great in the snow. Oh yeah went out to start the car today and she just rolls over. I have noticed it doesnt like to start when it is belo 20 dgrees outside. It has happend a couple of times and I think it might be the crank sensor but read about a coolant temp sensor might cause this problem. Not sure yet hopefully the mechanic will know more any ideas from you guys?

Dr. Venture

iTrader: (19)

well good to know the details now. before doing any extra work i would just have it thoroughly looked at just to make sure it runs Perfect so as to not waste putting $ into it and then realizing the bad news after the fact.
But all in all good luck and keep us posted!

carscrainer

iTrader: (1)

Car wouldn't start yesterday it was 15 in the garage.

Would not start again today. It was 1 outside this morning

I think the weather will be warmer tmrw and expect it to start right up after the temp goes above 20.

If it does does anyone know why?

Is it the crank sensor or some coolant temp sensor that would make it not start.

It rolls over but never seems to fire. When the engine light came on it said crank sensor. The light has been on for a few days then off for a few days so I dont know. Hopefully the mechanic will figure it out tuesday but any sugestions could be helpfull. Thanks

Dr. Venture

iTrader: (19)

well how about you check if it has no spark or no fuel? If it is the crank then your not getting spark. Might be a lil work to check for no spark since you have to remove a coil, but knowing the basics and working on it yourself might save a lil $ at times.

If the CEL said it was the CKP then change the sensor and it should crank right up. The sensor is near the front of the oil pan below the crank pulley.

to check for no fuel real easy way is to spray some carb cleaner or starting fluid into the intake while cranking and if it starts then your missing fuel.

carscrainer

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the advice. I will know a lot more by tuesday because that is when it is going into the shop for new plugs and compression test and for a good look over. The sensor will be changed then too if need be. I just hope I can drive it to the shop. Either way it will get their and we will know then what kind of shape the car is in. I will be sure to post what I find out. Then off to the dyno as long as everything looks good.

tylerxfire

iTrader: (15)

id change the crank angle sensor

carscrainer

iTrader: (1)

So the car wouldnt start yesterday for the 4th day in a row. So I towed it to the shop. It sucks to be towing my car 3 weeks after buying it but I have high hopes that everything will go well. Anyhow she is in good hands now and I will be sure to report back with what happens at the garage.

tylerxfire

iTrader: (15)

where did u bring the car...ur best bet would probably be to just bring it to innovative, they do this kinda stuff everyday and know the z very well...Plus they could pull the nitrous system off quick and u could get some money back for it and they could do ur tune too..

carscrainer

iTrader: (1)

So the mechanic changed the crank sensor and said the car fired right up! Then he did the compression test. It ranged from 155-170. So that was good to find out.Then he went on to tell me how nice my car is and that somone spent some money on her. He said I have the fuel pump and FMU installed that came with the vortech kit. So they put the supercharger kit on with all the parts and it doesnt look like they took any shortcuts. Then he told me that it definately has a diff suspension and coilovers and a thicker than stock front sway bar. He also said my car has headers with no cats he said it looked like their could be a real small cat or something up front but wasnt sure what it was at the time I talked to him. He said the exhaust was welded all the way back and looks really nice. So I guess I have a full exhaust on the car. The pipes say greddy coming out of the back. I am going to get some pics of it on the lift and post them later. Then the mechanic told me that I need new spark plug tube seals or something like that. He said their was about 2 inches of oil coming up the coil or something. Sorry I am not a mechanic but I try to learn and know about my car at least a little. Just give me time. Anyhow he said I would need new valve cover gaskets and theese spark plug tube seals which I can't find. Does anyone know where to get theese and or how much. I can get valve cover gaskets from advanced auto for like $25 and they will be here in the morning but I dont think they come with the spark plug tube seals. The mechanic called nissan and they didnt have anything their and were suppose to call him back so I have my fingers crossed they can get them if not Im not sure what to do. Besides that everything sounds good with my car besides it needed a new ac belt and one of my idler pulley bearings went bad and had a flat spot so those are being replaced as well. Then hopefully as long as I get parts in the mail I have a Dyno apointment on thursday to see what kind of numbers Im making and if it is running lean or not. I plan on getting a wideband A/F gauge and boost gauge also. I will just have to see how much cash I have next week. They want 209 for a wideband and like 250 to put it in and 189 for a boost gauge and 140 to install that. Are theese prices reasonable and how imprortant is it that I get theese now or can they wait a little while why I get caught up on my bills? Thanks for your time and I look forward to your reply's. I will have more pics and dyno numbers next week.

tylerxfire

iTrader: (15)

good to hear the car fired...as far as replacing the valve cover gaskets and plug seals i was under the impression the whole valve cover needs to be replaced as it is all one peice and cannot be done like that and just replace seals...Do some searching on here, but how much oil was he saying and what plug holes was it in? it is a normal thing for z's for this to happen, when i changed my plugs when i did my vortech kit i had oil in the last hole driver side which is normal on most, even basically brand new z's, it wont hurt anything..odds are the plugs have never been changed if the stock plugs were in it, so depending on how many plug holes had oil and how bad it was i would maybe just say screw that for now but hard to say not being there and seeing for myself... and as far as having someone install ur a/f gauge and boost gauge it is very easy..just get a gauge pod, i have one for my cubby in the middle that holds my boost and a/f gauge...mount them and drill a whole to run the wires thru and run the wires and hoses yourself...have someone weld a bung on ur test pipe and hook it up and the boost gauge t's off the vacuum line off ur plenum ..too bad ur not closer i could set u right up in a few hours

tylerxfire

iTrader: (15)

if u go get it on a dyno and get tuned and have them monitor everything like boost and a/f while its on the dyno u should be ok to wait to get some gauges, but really they are a good thing to have in the car to monitor whats goin on...tune is more important for sure

tylerxfire

iTrader: (15)

order from wherever but this is what i recommend

everything matches and looks real clean together


http://crawfordz.com/html/gauge_pod.html (fits great and makes the gauges easy to install, drill in bottom two small holes to pass wires thru and then they are right there to go thru grommet on pass side is what i did into the engine bay)


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AEM-D...Q5fAccessories

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AEM-G...Q5fCarQ5fParts

carscrainer

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the links to the parts. I just wish I had more money now if you know what I mean. lol It will come together just takes time.

carscrainer

iTrader: (1)

Only one plug had oil on it. It was the passenger side plug all the way in the back towards the car. So the back left if your looking under the hood. The oil was past the nut and almost to the top of the plug. The plugs that came out of the car are NGK's but they are the stock heat range for the car and not one cooler. Vortech said I could run stock plugs but I want to go with the one step cooler because I think that is what I am suppose to do. I got the website you showed me and those plugs should work fine. I know that my car was dynoed in 2004 and the vortech kit was on it then. So I guess theese plugs are prob from then unless the car somes with NGK's stock then maybe they have never been changed. I am goint to have to put it back together the way it is for now and hope because new valve covers are $250 a piece!!! **** and a used one prob has the same problem who knows. Hopefully all goes well and the one step colder is the way to go.

tylerxfire

iTrader: (15)

1 step colder is def. what u want to do, ngk iridiums FTW...that wont make a difference in the way the car runs it will just prevent detonation better..As far as the car yeah just put the new plugs in and put it back together..that is a very common thing for the vq35 like i said with oil in the back plug holes, i wouldnt worry about it..same thing that i had and many many others if u search for it while changing plugs..Just pull that plug after a few thousand miles and check to see how its doing