350z low clutch engagement point after engine replacement
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350z low clutch engagement point after engine replacement
what's up im new here. bear with me because I may not put everything on here that you guy's need to know. but today I just got my car(04 350z 6 speed) back from my mechanic who replaced the engine. while the engine was out in decided to replace the clutch because I didn't know how old it was. so when I picked up the car I stalled so many times because the clutch started grabbing at the most one inch from the floor and I told him why it was like that and he said because it's a new clutch(let it break in). he also said he didn't mess. with any of the transmission solenoid something. i don't know what he even said but is that normal for the clutch to be like that. sorry guy's I don't know much about cars. thanks in advance
#2
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This may be something as simple as the adjustment rod on the clutch master cylinder. The spec is in the factory service manual. Since you mentioned you're inexperienced, you may want to have a Nissan factory mechanic check that adjustment for you, but it's actually quite simple. Also, the Z is known for having a clutch with a horrible feel and poor modulation of the engagement point, so part of it might be that. RJM makes an adjustable clutch pedal pivot kit, and it's one of my favorite upgrades on my Z.
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This may be something as simple as the adjustment rod on the clutch master cylinder. The spec is in the factory service manual. Since you mentioned you're inexperienced, you may want to have a Nissan factory mechanic check that adjustment for you, but it's actually quite simple. Also, the Z is known for having a clutch with a horrible feel and poor modulation of the engagement point, so part of it might be that. RJM makes an adjustable clutch pedal pivot kit, and it's one of my favorite upgrades on my Z.
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alright thanks. I also forgot to mention that I have my foot pushing down the clutch hard and even then I sort of have to put quite a bit of effort to get it into gear. I've heard it could be air in the clutch lines but I'm not sure
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ok. I just called him and he said he didn't open the "system" so it didn't need to be bled but he can bleed it for me to try to fix the problem. would it really be the clutch master cylinder because I've never never had any clutch problems before?
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#8
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Hydraulic parts wear out, and it could be the master or slave. The bleed will tell, because if the system can't be bled, that indicates a worn master or slave. It's best to replace both at the same time, and then you'll be good for a long time, but, bleed first, and see what happens.
#9
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I would buy one asap...if you read the RJM thread he is on version 4 and making only one more batch.
OP..imho any decent mechanic should be able to trouble shoot that clutch specially If he/they put the engine in..any chance you were driving it before the bad engine..was it like that before?
Last edited by vegasanthony; 07-29-2016 at 02:06 PM.
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