Hello all, this is my first post of potentially many . I'm looking at purchasing what the title states. In the ad, he states the previous owner had a CD00A transmission installed, and has the receips. At first I was concerned as to why it was replaced as such low miles. Though after some research this seems to be the most desired and reliable transmission. That concern thought changed to attraction, some things I'm wondering about:

- Can you visually see which transmission it is while installed on the car?

- Is there anything specific pertaining to the transmission that I should ask about? Such as, what else is typically needed for the install.

- What would you like out for? Not talking body wear or anything obvious.


Again:

It's a 2003, has ~50k miles. Checked the carfax to verify mileage.

Thank you in advance and I apologize as I know some of this may be repetitive.

 

If the transmission does have a CD00A, that means it's likely been done in the last few years and there's a good possibility that the identification sticker is still affixed at the forward end of the transmission.

If not there are other ways to identify it as a CD009 or 00A.

First off, if it's a replacement transmission it will NOT have a metal VIN tag affixed to it. All original transmissions to a specific car are tagged as such and only a dealership takes the time to move the VIN tag to a replacement transmission. (Even then, unlikely.) Without it, it means it's been replaced. (A good sign)

If no VIN tag, look for the identification sticker, noted above. (Usually located on the forward, passenger side (LHD models) on/near bellhousing. But you won't always find one as it's just a sticker that tends to like to fall off after sitting/running in the environment.



Failing that, look at the case number. While not any form of a guarantee of which model trans it is, it might help you along. Many iterations of the Z transmission carry the same case number, e.g. CD0 (very early models only), CD4, CD4 #2, etc.

Probably the biggest "tell tale" is the skeletal (versus solid) tail and shifter mount. If it has this, it's likely an 009 or 00A. (But not entirely fool proof as it is an interchangeable part but unlikely anyone would do that unless trying to fool someone. There's no reason to swap the tail on it.)

Also see here: https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-...l#post10700618

 

if you see cd4 cd6 cd2 stamped on the case they are only case part numbers and do not refer to the trans. Z1 just posted a video on youtube about the transmissions. If the sticker falls off there is no way to know which trans you have. Best i can say.. if the trans has been replaced with new recently it should look brand new. Silver and shiny.

 

Or, the handy chart from Z1: https://www.z1motorsports.com/upload...sion_Guide.pdf

Also attached to this post for a quick save.

 

Thank you so much! Quoted this one so I don't make the thread huge. I wasn't expecting such a thorough reply (your first one), I truly appreciate it. Taking a several hour drive to check it out.

 

You cannot look at the transmission and know for certain if it is a CD009, CD00A, or a previous model. The only consistent identifier is a sticker (there is nothing stamped into the metal).

Meraki... When you do the test drive, shift hard and quickly from 6th gear to 5th gear. The defective transmissions (previous to CD009) will "grind." The problem with the pre-CD009 transmission was faulty synchromesh . The CD009 and later model CD00A fix the problem.

 

Thank you! Hopefully there's a sticker, but if not I'll look for what I can and try what you're saying. Just to clarify, you're saying to downshift from 6th to 5th correct?

 

Yes... and shift aggressively. If you sense any grinding, it is a faulty transmission.

 

This is not always true. Some people just can't match pedal to hand motions. Or, conversely, they do it so smoothly that even aggressive shifts don't grind.

 

Hi Mic, I agree that some cannot match shifts to optimal foot and hand coordination. Here is a foolproof method to test the synchromesh state:

1. Run the car up to 40 or 60 mph.
2. With the car in 6th gear, get off the accelerator pedal, and fully depress the clutch pedal (all the way down).
3. Slam the shift lever from 6th to 5th gear. Do this firmly and quickly.

If you hear or feel any grinding, the synchromesh gears are failing.

It is difficult testing from 5th to 4th gear using this method because it is not a "straight shot" with the Z's 6 speed transmission. But, you can run the test I describe above going from 4th to 3rd gear. Just lower the speed for this test. Again, any noticeable grinding indicates failing synchromesh gears.