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Hi guys, I'm a new z owner currently doing a rebuild and had a few questions about upgrading. I want to push 400 HP (i know thats the max I can push before having to forge my internals) but I'm not sure what I will need to support that. I want to get all the difficult upgrades done while the engine is out. Any and all help is appreciated!
Welcome, but you're sadly mistaken if you think 400 HP is possible with a basic rebuild. Maybe you can start with a description of the Z being rebuilt, including year and mileage, why the VQ needs a rebuild and other details. There are several Colorado Z33 owners on here--some of us are racers or builders--who might be able to guide you in local resources. Tell us a little about yourself too. What kind of mechanical skills, tools and resources do you have to accomplish this rebuild? We all know these projects take time and money, but in Colorado it also takes a shop out of the weather to get started.
Basically, the person I bought it from tore it down and thought the heads cracked, got them checked out by a shop that did a compression test on them and they came back clean. All the block needs is a hone and I'm already getting forged internals for it. It only has 70k on it and is a 2003. In addition, one of the people helping me through this is a mechanic at an auto repair shop and is currently in the process of finishing up a 1000 whp build himself.
Basically, the person I bought it from tore it down and thought the heads cracked, got them checked out by a shop that did a compression test on them and they came back clean. All the block needs is a hone and I'm already getting forged internals for it. It only has 70k on it and is a 2003. In addition, one of the people helping me through this is a mechanic at an auto repair shop and is currently in the process of finishing up a 1000 whp build himself.
Nice - just about any machine shop can hone the block. Geddes Engines is a really good source in Colorado Springs.
Have them check the head’s mating surface on the block and have them hot-tank/bath it too.
Hey guys, I started getting parts in for my rebuild and was wondering if anyone had a service manual or something that outlines torque specs and other procedures for the rebuild? Thanks- Meta
Hey guys, I started getting parts in for my rebuild and was wondering if anyone had a service manual or something that outlines torque specs and other procedures for the rebuild? Thanks- Meta
Here's a link to a collection of online Nissan FSMs: Nissan Service Manuals - NICOclub
You should be able to find your Z33 year, rebuild and torque specs in it. You're welcome.
It’s been a minute since I posted the progress but as of today I got my transmission out of the car, the block is at the machine shop for a hone and decking, and my fuel line is finally out…. Though it is unusable. I’ve got my clutch and flywheel on the way and once I get that in I’ll begin the assembly and balance. She still has a long way to go, but I’m making progress!
Last edited by themeta47; Nov 8, 2022 at 01:24 PM.
Hey guys, I just got my block back from the machine shop and noticed my dowel pins for my heads were gone, I’m gonna order more but have no idea how to correctly install them. Any advice?
Hey guys, I just got my block back from the machine shop and noticed my dowel pins for my heads were gone, I’m gonna order more but have no idea how to correctly install them. Any advice?
Start them by hand and lightly tap with a hammer. They should go right it.
Does anyone have any suggestions on how to remove the spark plug tube? I’ve been going at it with pliers trying to rock it loose after watching a video saying that would work and nothing is working.
Hey guys, I’m test fitting my cam caps with what the service manual says and had one question, does it matter where the different numbers are facing? And if so what is the order?
Last edited by themeta47; May 19, 2023 at 07:57 PM.
Hate to tell you, but if you mixed up the cam caps, you'll need to get them line bored and will need custom cams, unless you can remember where they went. This is why builders label them (they use stamps and label them 1, 2, 3, etc...) or keep them in order when disassembling a head. They're final machining is done while they're assembled. They are matched to the head.
Hate to tell you, but if you mixed up the cam caps, you'll need to get them line bored and will need custom cams, unless you can remember where they went. This is why builders label them (they use stamps and label them 1, 2, 3, etc...) or keep them in order when disassembling a head. Their final machining is done while they're assembled. They are matched to the head.
Nissan stamps all the cam caps with lettering a-p, which are still visible on my caps, so I should be good on that end, I’m just wondering if they’re directional or if it doesn’t matter where the numbers face
Hate to tell you, but if you mixed up the cam caps, you'll need to get them line bored and will need custom cams, unless you can remember where they went. This is why builders label them (they use stamps and label them 1, 2, 3, etc...) or keep them in order when disassembling a head. They're final machining is done while they're assembled. They are matched to the head.
no no no - this isnt true…
Meta47 - Reference EM-69 and EM-70 in the FSM and there is a tables / diagrams which cam-cap goes where based on the stamped letter
The tricky thing will be which orientation the caps go in if they can go in top to bottom or bottom to top. Obviously the cam cap that supply oil to the cam shaft can only go in one way - what I do is I match the orientation of the letter of the respective cap to the orientation of the letter on the oil-supply-cam-cap.
Does that make sense?
Rebuild and upgrade questions
