Nismo TT eating Porsche sandwiches
#62
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Yeah I know there's quite a few around here but I don't think they are ever tracked. There was one that showed up to the event Saturday but I could tell he was just cruising around the track and not even coming close to pushing the car. I heard quite a few people say they were disappointed because they wanted to see how well it would actually perform on the track by a non pro driver. CL65 was my instructor and he was talking about how he's been behind one on a track before and he could see the driver making some mistakes and the GTR would practically just drive itself around the corner haha
the reality is that driving a car with that kind of performance CLOSE to the limit is a pro driver skill... not weekend warrior skill.
#63
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+1, Track Time, 34 row Oil Cooler, 18" square setup (wider tires available over 17" since you have TT), track pads/fluid/Ti Shims, adjustable Front Arms, brake ducts, Quaife Diff, and you'll have a very capable track tool even with the stock Nismo suspension.
I can almost guarantee you that your oil temps had to be hitting 280-290. Mine do in a stock engine, 20 min session in 70-80F weather. I'm running a 25 row Mocal and still hit 270 occasionally on hot days and would go with the 34 row in hindsight.
I can almost guarantee you that your oil temps had to be hitting 280-290. Mine do in a stock engine, 20 min session in 70-80F weather. I'm running a 25 row Mocal and still hit 270 occasionally on hot days and would go with the 34 row in hindsight.
there are people here like Mthreat (is a while that he isn't around) and Sfarrah (to mention the Austin / Houston area ) that are WAY faster than me around a race track.
For what I learned so far:
1) track time... SPEND MONEY HERE. 95% of people going to a race track can use more for sure... without any mods.
2) make the car reliable on the track... oil cooler, bigger radiators, gauges, brake cooling, braided lines, race brake pads, better fluids and so on... if the car can't hold on for 30 minutes driven hard... you won't learn.
is going to make you faster? not one bit... but driving without thinking about cooling down every other lap is way more relaxing.
3) drive other cars and compare yourself...
if you are fast, you'll be fast with everything... sometimes downgrading to a slower car is useful... sometimes driving something faster is useful...
4) track time again...
than if you really want to spend money...
1) a good bucket seat.... good driving position is a must.
not jumping around helps and the faster you get... the more you need to concentrate on control and less on controlling your own position in the seat.
2) LSD... avoid "gay" lockings... 60% is plenty, 1.5 way is plenty... change the fluid often with a good 75W140 or 75W90, put some redline friction modifier and call it a day... better change fluid (1.5 quarts) every weekend than buying snake oil fluids and change it every 2 or 3 times.. if the diff makes noise (clunking... not tire chirping) with new fluid.. the fluid is too thin and needs friction modifier... if it doesn't you have the right fluid... when makes noise.. change fluid.
3) Tires... start with street tires... they talk, they are easy to control and they'll keep you slower... it'e easier to control the car (and your adrenaline) at 0.9/1.1 Gs.... at 1.6 on slicks everything becomes way more "interesting".
4) suspension angles... again.. at least GOOD front upper arms.. the Z needs camber... they pay back in about 6 track weekends in saved tires... if you plan to do more than 6 track weekends with the Z... buy it right away and increase front camber as you increase your skills... (use a pyrometer... 100$ or so)
5) suspensions... avoid "cheap"... I made the mistake... almost everybody did... HKS aren't real race coilovers... as well as cusco as well as tein and so on....
jrz, penske, real konis, moton ans some ohlins (not the one usually sold here) are "the $hit".... save the money and get the good ones....
they are after the diff (that modifies the car dynamics) and the tires... that dictate somehow the spring rates, rebound and compression control needed.
6) at this point all your bushing are shot.... replace it or do it while you do every work... solid/urethane bushings aren't cheap... but you need them in good shape.
7) keep going to the track.....
.
.
.
.
.
18) lighten the car... is free.
.
.
.
.
27) aero..
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
147) power.
For what I learned so far:
1) track time... SPEND MONEY HERE. 95% of people going to a race track can use more for sure... without any mods.
2) make the car reliable on the track... oil cooler, bigger radiators, gauges, brake cooling, braided lines, race brake pads, better fluids and so on... if the car can't hold on for 30 minutes driven hard... you won't learn.
is going to make you faster? not one bit... but driving without thinking about cooling down every other lap is way more relaxing.
3) drive other cars and compare yourself...
if you are fast, you'll be fast with everything... sometimes downgrading to a slower car is useful... sometimes driving something faster is useful...
4) track time again...
than if you really want to spend money...
1) a good bucket seat.... good driving position is a must.
not jumping around helps and the faster you get... the more you need to concentrate on control and less on controlling your own position in the seat.
2) LSD... avoid "gay" lockings... 60% is plenty, 1.5 way is plenty... change the fluid often with a good 75W140 or 75W90, put some redline friction modifier and call it a day... better change fluid (1.5 quarts) every weekend than buying snake oil fluids and change it every 2 or 3 times.. if the diff makes noise (clunking... not tire chirping) with new fluid.. the fluid is too thin and needs friction modifier... if it doesn't you have the right fluid... when makes noise.. change fluid.
3) Tires... start with street tires... they talk, they are easy to control and they'll keep you slower... it'e easier to control the car (and your adrenaline) at 0.9/1.1 Gs.... at 1.6 on slicks everything becomes way more "interesting".
4) suspension angles... again.. at least GOOD front upper arms.. the Z needs camber... they pay back in about 6 track weekends in saved tires... if you plan to do more than 6 track weekends with the Z... buy it right away and increase front camber as you increase your skills... (use a pyrometer... 100$ or so)
5) suspensions... avoid "cheap"... I made the mistake... almost everybody did... HKS aren't real race coilovers... as well as cusco as well as tein and so on....
jrz, penske, real konis, moton ans some ohlins (not the one usually sold here) are "the $hit".... save the money and get the good ones....
they are after the diff (that modifies the car dynamics) and the tires... that dictate somehow the spring rates, rebound and compression control needed.
6) at this point all your bushing are shot.... replace it or do it while you do every work... solid/urethane bushings aren't cheap... but you need them in good shape.
7) keep going to the track.....
.
.
.
.
.
18) lighten the car... is free.
.
.
.
.
27) aero..
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
147) power.
#65
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Once you feel like you've outgrown the stock suspension, your first upgrade should be coilovers. The adjustability gained will be worth every penny. Also, camber kits and toe kits. Most aftermarket adjustable arms replace the bushings with heim joints, which gives more feedback/less slop but does sacrifice ride quality.
#67
Thanks for the advice but unfortunately I am returning the car back to stock and selling everything off. I love this community and most Z/G owners but unfortunately product support has soured my taste with the HR platform and i'm going to move onto something different.
#70
haha definitely not a BMW, never really been a fan. I'm going to take a break from the car world, save some money up and finally make a commitment to go after a mid engine car
I might throw a piece of tape on the rear bumper and write Nissan on it so I can still hang out with everyone and show up to Z events lol
I might throw a piece of tape on the rear bumper and write Nissan on it so I can still hang out with everyone and show up to Z events lol
#73
I've always wanted a Ferrari F360 Challenge Stradale so it might take me a year or so to save up for one and i'll just keep all the money I get from selling the car (paid off), built low compression HR motor, Momentum Performance solid motor and transmission mounts, Haltech, Greddy TT 20G tuner kit, Greddy Ti-C true dual exhaust, DSS Pro axles, OS Giken triple disc clutch with the ZSpeed heavy duty CSC, and some Mazda FD wheels that I was going to use for some drag tires.
I'm getting all this stuff off the car now and should start putting up for sale threads soon, so if you guys want stuff let me know.
You're right ZDayz was a blast but unfortunately I was spending to much money in mods that I couldn't stay the whole weekend last year. I just came out with Blackbird to run his G35 at the Forged airstrip event and drove back to Indy.
I'm getting all this stuff off the car now and should start putting up for sale threads soon, so if you guys want stuff let me know.
You're right ZDayz was a blast but unfortunately I was spending to much money in mods that I couldn't stay the whole weekend last year. I just came out with Blackbird to run his G35 at the Forged airstrip event and drove back to Indy.
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