McDan

Thanks a lot for posting this info. I received the piece last week and installed it this weekend. Very clean install, easy to convert back to stock this way. I'll post pics soon.

Dan

00REDZ28

Just an FYI these pics have been around forever, the guy tampered with the burst disks in the pressure relief valve, he actually put 2 in instead of one. When he got out of the car he hit the bottle heater switch with his knee. so the bottle was heating for over a day. On a normal system the burst disk would have poped around 3500 PSI and relieved the pressure in the bottle, but I believe they were saying his bottle heated up to over 6000 PSI causing the bottle to rupture. So this was not a problem with a nitrous kit, it was someone that didnt know what they were doing, screwing with something they shouldnt have.

McDan

Here is a pic of the fuel adapter piece mentioned earlier. It works great! Note the fuel line to the ZEX controller is not hooked up yet. Also note the white columns are nylon spacers. The adapter is the silver piece between the fuel damper and the tube.

McDan

Other side, better view of elbow fitting.

McDan

control box mounted:

McDan

No F%cking Purple bottle for me!!:

McDan

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12SecZ

McDan,

Nice bottle. Did you use a 15 or 20 foot line to the back?

Did you run it on the driver side? It looks like it. Just curiuos. What shot you running ans any times yet?

More pics!

McDan

Actually, I haven't ran the nitrous line yet. It's the one that comes with the kit, probably 15ft. Everything except the nitrous line, bottle heater, press gauge, and nozzle is hooked up and ready to go. MSD is modifying my rpm window switch right now (they took a lot of convincing that their product would work with a 350Z, had to provide oscilloscope printouts from the repair manual). I hope to have times by this Sunday.

Also, though I have not sprayed yet, I have tested out the solenoids several times, since it is wired to the TPS. I can hear it click on at WOT. I have not gotten a single check engine light. I also had to put a thin block under the gas pedal when programming the ZEX unit (to set it to come on at say 90%)because if I didn't, the voltage when actually driving at WOT would cross over it's learned threshold and rapidly open and close the solenoids. I feel this may be a common setup mistake that a lot of people will overlook, and only be spraying 60% or so or the required N2O/fuel.

Dan

02trex

McDan, could you explain this? I did not run into this issue. Thanks.

"I also had to put a thin block under the gas pedal when programming the ZEX unit (to set it to come on at say 90%)because if I didn't, the voltage when actually driving at WOT would cross over it's learned threshold and rapidly open and close the solenoids. I feel this may be a common setup mistake that a lot of people will overlook, and only be spraying 60% or so or the required N2O/fuel."

McDan

First off, I hooked the white wire from the Zex box to the Green wire at the motor operated throttle valve, and tied the ground wire to the engine ground on the front of the engine. The green wire outputs approx 0 Volts when throttle valve is closed, and ramps up to ~4.15 volts when the throttle is fully open (WOT). Then programmed the box to read WOT at full pedal travel, which measures about 4.15V with the engine off and in 1st gear. This opened and closed the Zex solenoids (internal to the box) correctly when the pedal was fully pressed. I then took it for a test drive and could hear the solenoids opening and closing at different intervals at full throttle, and not always remaining open. So the voltage it's measuring to determine WOT seems to vary a little bit depending on if the car is running or not. So I then went back and reprogrammed the Zex unit to kick on at approx 90% pedal travel by putting a 1/4" thick block under the pedal on the floor. This way the Zex unit kicks on just under full throttle and doesn't fluctuate on and off. It click opens and stays open until I let off full throttle this way. Just be sure you know when exactly those solenoids are open.

Dan

02trex

The color of the voltage output wire is actually white (ironically the same as the wire on the ZEX unit). Also, I manually opened the throttle to WOT when the ZEX unit was "learning." With the car off, the throttle does not open due to drive-by-wire. I believe these comments explain your problem.

McDan

I don't think so. Per the manual page EC-285, the Green wire is the throttle position feedback. Also, the throttle butterfly WILL ONLY OPEN WHEN NOT RUNNING IS THE CAR IS IN FIRST GEAR (Drive for autos). I verified that the butterfly was indeed opening when off by removing the intake hose. You can also hear when it's on. The following info is per the manual. Where are you getting your info from? Maybe this is why so many others are having check engine lights come on. Then again, I'm not 100% sure mine is working correctly (just 90% like my throttle set point )

quote:
Electric Throttle Control Actuator consists of throttle control motor,
throttle position sensor, etc. The throttle position sensor responds to the throttle valve movement.
The throttle position sensor has the two sensors. These sensors aren a kind of potentiometers which transform the throttle valve position into output voltage, and emit the voltage signal to the ECM. In addition,
these sensors detect the opening and closing speed of the
throttle valve and feed the voltage signals to the ECM. The ECM
judges the current opening angle of the throttle valve from these signals
and the ECM controls the throttle control motor to make the
throttle valve opening angle properly in response to driving condition.

Specification data are reference values.
*: Throttle position sensor 2 signal is converted by ECM internally. Thus, it differs from ECM terminal voltage signal.
MONITOR ITEM CONDITION SPECIFICATION
THRTL SEN1
THRTL SEN2*

Ignition switch: ON
(Engine stopped)

Shift lever: D (A/T), 1st (M/T)
Accelerator pedal: Fully released More than 0.36V
Accelerator pedal: Fully depressed Less than 4.75V

TERMINAL
NO.
WIRE
COLOR
ITEM CONDITION DATA (DC Voltage)
47 W/R
Sensors' power supply
(Throttle position sensor)
[Ignition switch “ON”] Approximately 5V
50 G Throttle position sensor 1
[Ignition switch "ON"]

Engine stopped

Shift lever: "D" (A/T) or “1st” (M/T)

Accelerator pedal fully released
More than 0.36V
[Ignition switch “ON”]

Engine stopped

Shift lever: "D" (A/T) or “1st” (M/T)

Accelerator pedal fully depressed
Less than 4.75V
66 L
Sensors' ground
(Throttle position sensor)
[Engine is running]

Warm-up condition

Idle speed
Approximately 0V
69 Y Throttle position sensor 2
[Ignition switch "ON"]

Engine stopped

Shift lever: "D" (A/T) or “1st” (M/T)

Accelerator pedal fully released
Less than 4.75V
[Ignition switch “ON”]

Engine stopped

Shift lever: "D" (A/T) or “1st” (M/T)

Accelerator pedal fully depressed
More than 0.36V
end quote

McDan

Also, to anyone hoping to be able to implement some dash lights (TCS OFF, REV, etc) into the control scheme for a nitrous kit (Using the REV light instead of an RPM window switch), this will not work. For example, using a relay to make sure the TRACTION CONTROL is off so not to spray under fuel cut when the TRAC unit operates. The ECU communicates information to the dash via a communications channel. So data is transfered to the dash over several different frequencies. So know way in hell you'd be able to simply pull the voltage going to a specific bulb or switch on the dash.

Dan

12SecZ

Well they used the white wire on mine too and mine has never acted as you described. I had it done at an authorized ZEX installer too.

Why would yours be any different?

You may want to check your setup before really running it!

Something doesn't sound right it's a WOT setup up design! Not a 90% design. And a rubber thing under your gas peddle just doesn't sound safe at 108 mph!

02trex

McDan,
I have had no problems with my set-up installed as I described. It would not take you too long to do the following:
1) Attach the white wire on the ZEX unit to the white wire on the TPS
2) Program the ZEX unit with the car in neutral by manually opening the butterfly.
There are indeed 2 wires that change voltage based on throttle position, but the white wire is the correct one; this was verified through personal testing and a dealer tech; also, as MaxHax stated, his is also installed to that wire. The CEL is triggered because the ecu detects the initial splice into the wire, but once the CEL is cleared, it does not return.

If you give it a try, perhaps your problems will go away. Good luck.

12SecZ

This was my EXACT experience and it never returned as you stated (and I initially posted here in the archives.)

McDan

We may all be basically using the same voltage signal, just opposite ends of the wire after the TPS. I only put a block under the pedal while programming the control box. I then removed it. You are NEVER at 90% full throttle unless you're at WOT. 90% full pedal travel is VERY deep into the throttle Even so, the butterfly may be opened 85 degrees instead of 90, but who would care. The computer does not sense a WOT point, it constatly monitors fuel delivery, unlike other cars that dump the injectors fully open at WOT. I'm going to bring the LED off the ZEX box inside the car so I can monitor when those solenoids are opening or closing.

I ran the nitrous line last night out underneath on the passenger side by passing it through a hole by the fuel pump (I think) underneath the "glove box" behind the passenger seat. There was a spare slot running the length of the car by the fuel and brake lines. It's just too perfect! The 15' hose c ould have been a little bit longer, but it fit perfectly, but not much slack to give at all.

Dan

McDan

Ok, so after bringing the LED inside the cabin to see when it's opening the solenoids and doing some trial runs, I'm on board for the white wire! GREEN WIRE DOESN'T WORK CORRECTLY! Thanks for the help. Something funky must be going on behind the scenes with the green wire.

Does anyone know the CORRECT part number for the spark plugs (2 deg colded)? I had talked to ZEX for 10 minutes and they only listed one plug for the Z, which I found out the hard way is about a half-inch too short (threaded side)! So now I gotta try to get new plugs. I'm afraid to spray it until then. Guess just a 50 shot won't hurt.

02trex

I believe MaxHax is using the plugs from ZEX without issue.

For myself, I went with one step colder plugs from the dealer when I moved from 55 shot to 75 shot; I did not change the plugs for the 55 shot. Sorry, but I do not know about plugs that are two steps colder.

Further, I'm glad to see you moved over to the white wire.

Good luck finding the plugs.