i dont know how knowledgeable this mechanic was at installing kits on Z's.

but he showed me that when he cut the fuel line on the Z it had a hard black plastic tube running inside of it. It was like the rubber outside was just a protective shield, and the plastic tube inside was the real fuel 'hose'.

this tube was somewhat slim, and the T-tap that the ZEX 82021 kit comes with is very fat and did not properly fit into it.

did he cut the right fuel line?

does someone have a pic of where the proper fuel line to cut is??

 

WOW!
You really should have read more Forums in here before you did that.
You really shouldn't "Cut" the fuel line. If you want to go back to stock, you more then likely will have to get a new fuel line. Plus there is a chance it will leak at the cut.
There is a fuel tap that bolts on the manifold where the fuel line hooks up to it.
You just remove 2 bolts, put the tap on and reconnect the fuel line with the supplied longer bolts.
Then you use the supplied fitting to hook the hose from the nitrous solenoid to it.
There is a nice picture of one in another thread in here:

https://my350z.com/forum/nitrous-oxide/285884-superior-racing-fuel-splitter.html

This is what you should be using to tap into the fuel.

 

Yeah... you DONT cut the fuel line on the Z.

Good Luck with that one.

 

Fire your "mechanic" after you get him to fix the line. Get the tap.

 

i read through the forums the best i could, i know there are some people that did use t-taps that got it working, but i dont remember anyone saying anything about that plastic tube inside of there.

i already called my local nissan dealer and ill be pickup up a new fuel line for $134 later today.

this install will have to wait until i get the ptp adapter or the aam adapter to properly tap the fuel line.

 

You really should of taken my advice and had Performance Factory do it. Your going to have to tune the car anyways and you could of had it all done at one place...I wish you luck with your venture.

 

i had every intention of taking to PF, but this mechanic said he was familiar with this car and had done other installs on other cars as well.

 

Is the mechanic picking up the bill for the new fuel line..where in S.Fla are you

 

I have an AAM fuel tap sitting around, will give it to you for $25 shipped if you want it. I think they are about $50 new.

 

That's a good deal!
You should buy it R3zon8.

 

Hey Tom's_Z,
I notice your sig and the 125-shot.
Are you running an engine management?
If not, how are you retarding the timing, if you are?

 

I'm sure he is running some kind of Engine Management. I run a 125 Shot also and I had to pull 3 degrees.

 

I just sold the car, but was running a J&S Ultra Safeguard......it pulls the timing between 2 or 4' as soon as the Nitrous is armed. And it actively listens for knock, and pulls up to 20' of timing on a per cylinder basis. For pulling timing, in my opinion, it was much better thean a UTEC, which you can also adjust, but which doesn't automatically adjust for knock or pre-detonation. The UTEC pulls timing across the board according to whatever you preset, which means it's not as efficient as a J&S.

Had ZERO problems with it.

 

The utec does detect knock and pulls timing accordingly.

 

i cut my fuel line on my 07 and had no problems yet with it and too fit the t fitting into the line put the line in a cup of hot water and when it gets soft shove it in

 

I don't get why people don't use the PTP Fuel Tap? It's crazy easy to install and you won't need to replace that fuel line when you get rid of the n2o?

 

Sorry guy, the UTEC works off of pre-mapping of timing you input -see their website's own wording:

"Ignition Timing- The UTEC gives you complete control of timing. This is not done on the basis of offsets or altering the crank signal as some engine management systems use. The load reference we use is RPM vs. MAF or MAP which is optional. This allows the fuel map to be adjusted at each of the 250 rpm resolution with over 10 different load sites from zero to rev limit. When you enter a value into the Ignition Map you are actually typing in Degrees Before Top Dead Center. The UTEC fires the coils based on these values. No more wondering if the stock ecu is going to advance or retard timing."

The J&S to me, works more intelligently, because it looks at your timing on an individual cylinder basis, and pulls only as needed. This active timing monitoring equals more power, instead of pulling power accrss the board which kills power.

 

how do you pull the timing with the safeguard, is it its own programmer, or so you tune it with a lap top like the utec?

 

I was looking into buying the J&S Ultra Safeguard when I read the instructions and realized you have to cut your coil wires to splice it in.
I'm trying to avoid cutting any wires.
It looks like the UTEC is a better piggyback system cause you just plug it inline with the OE ECM.
It comes with direct plug in adapters.

The J&S Ultra Safeguard sounds like it will do a great job, but I'm going to stick to the UTEC so I don't have to Dice and Splice wires.


J&S Ultra Safeguard Installation:

The unit must be installed in the passenger compartment.
Cut the six coil drive wires at a convenient point. Install the adapter terminal block as shown, between the cut ends.
Connect the SafeGuard to the adapter as shown, using the six conductor cable supplied in the kit.
Connect the J&S Red wire to a switched power source. Note that 12v must be present during cranking and running.
Connect the J&S Black wire to chassis ground.
Connect the "clear" wire of the J&S knock sensor cable to the factory knock signal wire. Tap the signal near the ECU, to avoid cutting though the shield on the factory knock sensor cable.

 

Yes, that's right, you will have to cut the wires, but it is a much cheaper system cost wise to get.....

PROS:

You can find a few for about $250 in the used markets. They work well with nitrous, since pulling timing is the most important element in these systems.

That, along with a window switch, and you've got effective protection for way less than a UTEC, and no finessing of timing maps is needed. And the UTEC will pull timing way more precisely than any map you can devise.

CONS:

It takes a few hours to install, but you can do it pretty easily with an ECU diagram and some optical connectors. If you have a new Z, I can see why you would be hesitant about doing it....

I DONT recommend them for a turbo or supercharger, because the sysems are much more complex than a nitrous kit.

They never have to be removed, and will continue to work in the background, whether you have mods or not.

Good luck either way!