If you have a fuel pressure safety switch and you hit the rev-limiter it cuts fuel.. but since you have the fuel pressure safety switch once it cuts fuel shouldnt it cut the nitrous.. So therefore you wouldnt blow your motor.. This makes sense on paper at least.. any feedback??

 

if the nitrous solenoid is powered off of the fuel pump relay it will cut fuel and nitrous

 

Yeah, you need to make sure you cut both nitrous and fuel with the switch.

 

Important to measure the exact delay between commanding a solenoid to shut off and the time the flow stops AND the number of engine rpms in the 1/10 second about 12 rpms........the gasoline/nitrous mass relationship so that the lighter nitrous does flow when fuel is stopped.

 

i had mine installed at a shop and they told me i didnt have to worry about the rev limiter but im going to eventually put a rpm activator in and start sprazying but that sounds complicated..

 

trust me if you use a wet system you dont have to worry about the rev limmiter. I accidently tap the rev limiter a couple of times while spraying and it didnt do anything. You already have fuel being sprayed into the motor via selinoid. When the ECU cuts fuel it happens @ the injectors not @ the fuel pump. so your good!

 

Either way, it still is starving for fuel, which is a lean condition.

 

I dunno buddy...

 

Think about it.

Let's assume that the extra oxygen added by the nitrous is compensated by the extra fuel that is also sprayed with nitrous. If the fuel is cut off, what is compensating for the normal level of oxygen that the engine's already breathing in?

 

has anyone heard of someone blowing their motor with a 100 shot???

 

The fuel cut is complete. The cylinder becomes an air pump, which without any fuel will not ignite. This type of "lean" condition will not detonate (since there is no fuel to detonate - at all).

 

Ah, my mistake. I stand corrected.

 

I like yall .... yall are smart like my self! lol just kidding

 

An rpm switch a nessecity. It just provides another saftey feature to keep you from blowing the engine. If you want to depend on the fuel pressure saftey switch your argument sounds legit but for one dont want to be chancing split second cut offs on the life of my engine.

And as far as a 100 shot goes... to safely run that you will need one step colder plugs, UTEC, and tune. Asked Sharif about running a 125 with tune and he said he only felt comfortable tuning a 100.

 

ive been hearing alot of people saying the 100 shot is pushing it on stock internals also..

 

You can run a 150 shot on stock internals as long as you retard the timing. Audible Mayhem is the guy to talk to about that.

 

I couldn't agree more, and not just for fuel cut reasons either..........

I run the msd digital one, it is a very simple install and only cost me around $100 new on e-bay IIRC, alot cheaper and easier than pulling your motor.

Allthough you will lose out on the semi-cool digital tach, and the easy to adjust rpm points, you can also get one from a place called "bakers electronics" for around $40, it comes pre-programmed for the cylinder count (v6 etc) and with one setting (aka on @ 4k off @ 6.5k), or you can get one that has switches to adjust between 8 pre-set on/off threshholds for $50, read my warning thread for the benefits of this. Here is there page http://mysite.verizon.net/vze7erz1/id1.html Site is a tad ghetto but I've been very impressed with there o2 sims.

Now, does anyone have any info on the Z/G's fuel pump limitations? I know of at least one person running a 150shot on a 3.5 a33b maxima, stock internals hold up just fine, but on the a33b's anything past 100 shot and you are entering fuel pump territory.

 

Many people have run 150 shots without upgrading their fuel pump. A couple of people have done the upgrades, but I don't think it's necessary as long as you're 150 or less.