The only problem is its a dry kit. How difficult is it to make this a workable wet kit for the Z? I've been reading up on the threads, but there seems like a bunch of way to do it.

Also, I have the Cobb Ap Stage 2 flash as opposed to Utec.

 

You would be much better off with a wet kit.....read the sticky for more N20 info

 

So I can't buy the pieces to make it a wet kit?

 

Isn't dry kit basically the same thing, except it just doesn't include the fuel stuff?

If so, all you need is:
-fuel solenoid (wire to the relay for nitrous so it activates at the same time)
-fogger (so it'll mix fuel and nitrous)
-fuel tap
-line for fuel tap to solenoid and for solenoid to fogger
-appropriate jet sizes for both fuel and nitrous
-other adaptors for proper fit

 

Thanks! That's what I was looking for. Do you know if the nitrous control unit works the same or are they different?

If things are too difficult I'll just sell this dry kit and buy the wet version. I got it for $200 basically brand new so I couldn't pass it up.

 

Actually, because you have the ZEX kit, it may be a different. From what I remember, they have a "brain" control center which has the relay, wiring already done, solenoid, etc. In this case, it may behoove you to just ditch that and get the:
-nitrous solenoid (necessary adaptors, lines, etc)
-relay
-TPS/window switch

Essentially, your kit will no longer be a ZEX kit. You can always sell that and get a premade wet kit (saves you the time consuming process of finding parts and buying and waiting and whatever).

 

sounds like you should just get rid of it and find the proper kit.

 

I agree. Thanks guys.

 

i would stay away from zex all together imo.

 

Zex is fine, you just need a wet kit. But if your selling the dry kit go with either nx or dynotune.

 

If I go dynotune what should my shopping list be? I'm starting to get confused

The kit obviously
Dynotune Tps or the window switch?
Spark plugs

What else?

 

Get an NX kit and a u-tec (that already has a window switch built in) and be done with it. Besides max u can spray without retarding timing is a 75 shot. Either add a fuel solenoid, fogger, an extra relay and some n20 (fuel lines) or get a new kit. But either way, use a utec to achieve maximum results

 

I have the Cobb reflash so I'm not switching to utec. I can retard the timing up to two degrees with Cobb.

 

Thats safe for up to a 100 shot.

Well...if you want a COMPLETE dynotune kit, you need, and you happen to have a pm :
remote opener
bottle heater
fuel tap
digital psi gauge
kit
tps/window switch
switch center
blow down tube

 

i dont know how other system work, but you dont have to retard timing with the nx kit for a 100 shot or less. i've been running my nx kit on my z for 4 years now without any ecu work. ive sprayed as much as a 150 shot, but mostly i stick to the 100 to 125 shot range. all done without having to retard timing or any major engine work other then 2 step colder plugs. i dont even have a utec.

but make sure you invest in some basics though like a heater, gauges (atleast nitrous pressure and a wideband a/f gauge), fuel shut off, blow down, purge, and an opener if your lazy like me.

everything else you need like a wot switch, relays and a fuel tap should be included in your basic kit. if you dont want to cut your fuel line, theres even a part you can buy for that, but i forget what it was called. i just cut mine.

you really dont need all the controllers and other uber expensive parts unless you plan on spraying at every red light and want to break the 11's on just nitrous. but if thats the case, you might want to look into building your bottom end first.


do a search, a lot of people had issues with zex in the past for various reasons. i wouldnt feel right installing a used nitrous system on my car. you dont know what kind of abuse its been threw and how well kept it was. dont go cheap with nitrous, you will pay a lot more in the long run. but you still dont need a utec...lol

 

Whats the normal fuel shut-off people get? I was a but confused. I'll have the dynotune window switch and was looking at their a/f lean switch? Do those work together?

 

The window switch and lean switch would work together. The lean switch just reads on 02 sensor then will cut the n20 if it gets too lean

 

I was looking at the fuel pressure switch, there is a 35psi and 45psi both adjustable, which would be preferred for the stock 51psi?

 

Bump for fuel pressure switch question.