Yet ANOTHER stealth Nitrous Install N0 56k
#1
Yet ANOTHER stealth Nitrous Install N0 56k
Gotta love all this activity in the nitrous forums! I've been working on this on and off for the last 2 months. Last thing I need to do is put some jets in and I am good to go, eventually get the a/f lean shutdown switch. Everything is dynotune, got an amazing deal on this. I would like to thank everyone who helped me out, chefrey, golfinz, 3hree5ive0ero.
I spent a lot of times reading the nitrous forums and the sticky. I downloaded A LOT of pictures. Unfortunatly, when I was doing this, there wasn't a lot of activity and a lot of the pictures were down. I downloaded a lot of instructions also, not just from dynotune but zex, nos, and so fourth just to get a better understanding. My goal was when you look under my hood, it would look stock. Well, enough talk, here are the pics:
Everything taken out - too lazy to take the center console out all the way
I have a thing for quick disconnects, makes me feel like i could take it out if i want, but solder is the way to go. I actually used too big of a quick tap for my nitrous gauge and had to redo it again, so i just soldered it.
My new setup, my pioneer was giving me problems, but it was a great headunit for the 6 years I had it.
I put the nitrous pressure gauge sender directly into the bottle, so that i don't have to open the bottle to monitor the pressure.
Where I purge out of. What do you guys think? Does it look out of place, would you be able to tell thats not part of the car, or does it look like just a vent tube of some sort.
I had dual purge, but i thought that was a waste and too much more trouble, so I changed back to single purge
How the car sits now No headlights, can't drive at night. The good thing is, the lights are at CinCityDesigns to get some work done
I am actually going to connect the switch panel to my ddx-812, the 812 has an external switch that can control relays, just so that I have an extra feature, just so that no one could purge my car, or if my pops borrows it, he doesn't accidentally arm my system.
I'll put comments on what is what when I get a chance, just don't have a lot of time right now. If anyone has any questions, I will definitely try to answer, thank you to all who have passed down some knowledge to me.
I have a question though, is it important to have the solenoids mounted with a bracket or is it ok just to have them in there secure, i can't seem to move them or anything to mount them properly, i might just make my own bracket, but if I don't need to, i wouldn't want to. Thanks!
If anyone wants full size pics to use as reference, just pm me and I will send them to you.
Edit 4/14/17:
How the car currently looks and current modifications:
Engine Modifications:
Torque Solutions Exhaust Hanger Kit
Nismo Exhaust, MR V2 resonated Test Pipes, MR V2 y-pipe
Motordyne Engineering 5/16 iso thermal spacer
Motordyne Engineering Mrev 2
Maxima 75mm Throttle Body, Modified Upper Plenum
Mishimoto 3in Induction Hose
Z1 Auto 3in MAF
Apexi Air Filter
Apexi Super ground system
Grounding Kit
Stillen Engine Damper
Dynotune 350z Nitrous Kit
- 57N/26F Jets
- Remote Bottle Opener
- Automatic Bottle Warmer
- Braided SS Blow down tube
- Purge Kit
- NX n20 Filter
- NX Triple Insulated Race Hose
NGK 1 step colder plugs
Dynotune Switch panel Gauge
Dynotune n20 pressure Gauge
LC-1 Wideband Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge- Square Display
Harris Speed Works Microedge n20 controller
Dynotune WOT/TPS controller
Labonte Motor Sports Water/Meth Injection Kit
Brakes/Suspension/Drivetrain:
Technafit braided SS brake lines
Technafit braided SS Full Clutch line
Stoptech Slotted Rotors
Swift Spec-R springs
SPC Rear Camber Arms
Whiteline Rear Diff Bushings
Injected Performance Rear Diff brace
RJM Rev. 4 Clutch Pedal
Torque Solutions Short Shifter
MTEC Shifter Springs
Exedy Racing Hyper Twin Carbon-R Clutch
Z1 Motorsports Urethane Transmission Mount
Interior/Audio:
Crawford Z cubby gauge holder
Precision Power PPI P600.2
Alpine MRD-500 amplifier
Alpine RUX-4280
Zenclosure Sub Box w/ID 10 sub
JBL MS-62C Components
Tsunami 2 Farad Cap
GT Mat Sound Dampening
Deka etx 18L lightweight battery - 18lbs
Kenwood DDX-812
Kenwood KNA-G510
Rearview Camera
Monokuro Boo accessories
Broadway 270mm Rearview Mirror
Raptor Shift Light
Password: JDM Type II Shift ****
Redline Accessories Shift Boot
Exterior:
15% Tint
Perrin shorty Antenna
Black Hood Struts
CuztompartZ Under panel
Cincity Designs Custom Headlights
-Color matched Magnetic Black
-Red Projector Mod
-Sti Clear lens
Clear Corners
Mastergrade CF Hatch
Enkei rp03 SBC F:18x9+18mm R:18x10+22mm
Sumitomo HTR Z III - F: 245/40/18 R: 275/40/18
5zigen Proracer lug nuts
I spent a lot of times reading the nitrous forums and the sticky. I downloaded A LOT of pictures. Unfortunatly, when I was doing this, there wasn't a lot of activity and a lot of the pictures were down. I downloaded a lot of instructions also, not just from dynotune but zex, nos, and so fourth just to get a better understanding. My goal was when you look under my hood, it would look stock. Well, enough talk, here are the pics:
Everything taken out - too lazy to take the center console out all the way
I have a thing for quick disconnects, makes me feel like i could take it out if i want, but solder is the way to go. I actually used too big of a quick tap for my nitrous gauge and had to redo it again, so i just soldered it.
My new setup, my pioneer was giving me problems, but it was a great headunit for the 6 years I had it.
I put the nitrous pressure gauge sender directly into the bottle, so that i don't have to open the bottle to monitor the pressure.
Where I purge out of. What do you guys think? Does it look out of place, would you be able to tell thats not part of the car, or does it look like just a vent tube of some sort.
I had dual purge, but i thought that was a waste and too much more trouble, so I changed back to single purge
How the car sits now No headlights, can't drive at night. The good thing is, the lights are at CinCityDesigns to get some work done
I am actually going to connect the switch panel to my ddx-812, the 812 has an external switch that can control relays, just so that I have an extra feature, just so that no one could purge my car, or if my pops borrows it, he doesn't accidentally arm my system.
I'll put comments on what is what when I get a chance, just don't have a lot of time right now. If anyone has any questions, I will definitely try to answer, thank you to all who have passed down some knowledge to me.
I have a question though, is it important to have the solenoids mounted with a bracket or is it ok just to have them in there secure, i can't seem to move them or anything to mount them properly, i might just make my own bracket, but if I don't need to, i wouldn't want to. Thanks!
If anyone wants full size pics to use as reference, just pm me and I will send them to you.
Edit 4/14/17:
How the car currently looks and current modifications:
Engine Modifications:
Torque Solutions Exhaust Hanger Kit
Nismo Exhaust, MR V2 resonated Test Pipes, MR V2 y-pipe
Motordyne Engineering 5/16 iso thermal spacer
Motordyne Engineering Mrev 2
Maxima 75mm Throttle Body, Modified Upper Plenum
Mishimoto 3in Induction Hose
Z1 Auto 3in MAF
Apexi Air Filter
Apexi Super ground system
Grounding Kit
Stillen Engine Damper
Dynotune 350z Nitrous Kit
- 57N/26F Jets
- Remote Bottle Opener
- Automatic Bottle Warmer
- Braided SS Blow down tube
- Purge Kit
- NX n20 Filter
- NX Triple Insulated Race Hose
NGK 1 step colder plugs
Dynotune Switch panel Gauge
Dynotune n20 pressure Gauge
LC-1 Wideband Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge- Square Display
Harris Speed Works Microedge n20 controller
Dynotune WOT/TPS controller
Labonte Motor Sports Water/Meth Injection Kit
Brakes/Suspension/Drivetrain:
Technafit braided SS brake lines
Technafit braided SS Full Clutch line
Stoptech Slotted Rotors
Swift Spec-R springs
SPC Rear Camber Arms
Whiteline Rear Diff Bushings
Injected Performance Rear Diff brace
RJM Rev. 4 Clutch Pedal
Torque Solutions Short Shifter
MTEC Shifter Springs
Exedy Racing Hyper Twin Carbon-R Clutch
Z1 Motorsports Urethane Transmission Mount
Interior/Audio:
Crawford Z cubby gauge holder
Precision Power PPI P600.2
Alpine MRD-500 amplifier
Alpine RUX-4280
Zenclosure Sub Box w/ID 10 sub
JBL MS-62C Components
Tsunami 2 Farad Cap
GT Mat Sound Dampening
Deka etx 18L lightweight battery - 18lbs
Kenwood DDX-812
Kenwood KNA-G510
Rearview Camera
Monokuro Boo accessories
Broadway 270mm Rearview Mirror
Raptor Shift Light
Password: JDM Type II Shift ****
Redline Accessories Shift Boot
Exterior:
15% Tint
Perrin shorty Antenna
Black Hood Struts
CuztompartZ Under panel
Cincity Designs Custom Headlights
-Color matched Magnetic Black
-Red Projector Mod
-Sti Clear lens
Clear Corners
Mastergrade CF Hatch
Enkei rp03 SBC F:18x9+18mm R:18x10+22mm
Sumitomo HTR Z III - F: 245/40/18 R: 275/40/18
5zigen Proracer lug nuts
Last edited by BakaN20; 04-14-2017 at 07:05 AM.
#3
The wire loom you can get from walmart or any auto shop like auto zone or pep boys? Which extra wires? You are probably talking about the primary power wires, you can get them at walmart or any auto shop also, i bought 18gauge, 14gauge, 12gauge, 16gauge, just in case.
#6
Very nice. I'm glad I was able to help (I didn't even know I was helping ).
BTW, as for the solenoids, I'd secure them somewhere. Think about it. When you're spraying, you're adding pressure to the lines (both fuel and nitrous) which causes them to tense up than their normal state. I wouldn't want that moving about in that little compartment.
Use the brackets that should've come with the Dynotune kit (or anything else for that matter) and attach it. See my thread to see where mine are bolted.
Also, let me add that for the fuel tap, you can turn that around to face the passengers. Mine was too short to do what you did, so I did that and ran the line behind the plenum. I can show you a pic, if necessary.
BTW, as for the solenoids, I'd secure them somewhere. Think about it. When you're spraying, you're adding pressure to the lines (both fuel and nitrous) which causes them to tense up than their normal state. I wouldn't want that moving about in that little compartment.
Use the brackets that should've come with the Dynotune kit (or anything else for that matter) and attach it. See my thread to see where mine are bolted.
Also, let me add that for the fuel tap, you can turn that around to face the passengers. Mine was too short to do what you did, so I did that and ran the line behind the plenum. I can show you a pic, if necessary.
Last edited by 3hree5ive0ero; 07-31-2008 at 02:12 AM.
#7
Well, you are one of the few people who actually still answer questions. A lot of people just tell you to search or read the sticky, but even though there is 22+ pages in the nitrous forum, a lot of the stuff is outdated. From your answers, I learned a lot. You also answered me on how to program the window switch in an easy way, i was stuck on that for awhile. Plus, your pictures to where to tap really helped also.
I will try to mount my solenoids where you mounted them when i get a chance, just no tools right now. I'll see if the fuel tap looks better the other way, i really don't mind where its at right now. Thanks again for everything!
I will try to mount my solenoids where you mounted them when i get a chance, just no tools right now. I'll see if the fuel tap looks better the other way, i really don't mind where its at right now. Thanks again for everything!
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#11
Registered User
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 169
Likes: 0
From: colorado springs, CO Tampa, FL
Originally Posted by 3kgtslflip
The wire loom you can get from walmart or any auto shop like auto zone or pep boys? Which extra wires? You are probably talking about the primary power wires, you can get them at walmart or any auto shop also, i bought 18gauge, 14gauge, 12gauge, 16gauge, just in case.
#12
Its not that bad to take out. When you open the glove box, it actually rests on the seat, so I can put almost all my weight on it and it is easy to take out then. I need all my trunk space, and not only that, my n20 pressure has never gone above 900psi, even in like, 100 degree weather outside.
As for why i got so many, you never know what you will need. Like someone said before, get all your stuff before you do your install.
Got another question. For the guys who used a dynotune kit, what size hole did you drill to tap the intake? They gave you this to tap your intake:
But this to secure it:
I think I used a 1/2 inch drill and bored it out a little, then put the fogger mount in, like the instructions said.
But I always thought that you were suppose to use the 1/16th tap.
As for why i got so many, you never know what you will need. Like someone said before, get all your stuff before you do your install.
Got another question. For the guys who used a dynotune kit, what size hole did you drill to tap the intake? They gave you this to tap your intake:
But this to secure it:
I think I used a 1/2 inch drill and bored it out a little, then put the fogger mount in, like the instructions said.
But I always thought that you were suppose to use the 1/16th tap.
#14
The tap is only if you want to mount the nozzel directly into a metal intake tube (no chance of nut coming loose and getting sucked into intake).
If you have the OEM plastic, or choose to use the nut, you don't need the tap.
If you have the OEM plastic, or choose to use the nut, you don't need the tap.
#15
Thanks garym, thats good to know.
Thanks one350zfan! Its great to hear that! When i get a chance, i am going to paint the catch can all flat black. Even though its just a catch can, it can lead to a slippery slide when people look under my hood, they see that, then they might think i might have something else, lol.
Thanks one350zfan! Its great to hear that! When i get a chance, i am going to paint the catch can all flat black. Even though its just a catch can, it can lead to a slippery slide when people look under my hood, they see that, then they might think i might have something else, lol.
#16
How did you mount the pressure sender so it reads pressure even when the bottle is closed?
I'd like to do this because my Autometer nexus guage flashes at me (warning) constantly when it sees no pressure.. Aka 99% of the time since my bottle isn't open.
Drives me nuts and theres no way to disable the warning.
I'd like to do this because my Autometer nexus guage flashes at me (warning) constantly when it sees no pressure.. Aka 99% of the time since my bottle isn't open.
Drives me nuts and theres no way to disable the warning.
#18
Red line is where the blow down tube goes. Blue is where nitrous flows out of. There should be a 3rd outlet,the black line, you can take the plug out and mount it in there. Thats for dynotune bottles. I am not sure if the other companies has bottles like this.
Thanks BiGGD198! My only problem is my purge. I want it to purge a certain direction, but since i put nylon tubing over the copper wire, it doesn't stay where i want it optimally. I'll get it working though, maybe some super glue, lol. If you get you nitrous kit within this month, let me know, if I am in jersey, we could work on it.