I'm having trouble programing the TPS for my window switch. I know I have the right program to recieve my RPM's, but when I try to have it learn my WOT signal it goes straight to 5V whether I use partial throttle or full. (this is with the 002 configuration for step 7). Then once I configure the whole thing it says 000? But if I disable the TPS switch (003 config for step 7), it'll tell me 001 and the RPM window works. Also I'm running the white wire directly to the positive side of the battery, because when I try to tap in to the line going to ACC (85 from the relay I think) of my nitrous switch it doesn't seem to have power, however if I flip the switch the nitrous/fuel solenoids work and the switch lights up. Anyone that can help, please let me know what you think.

KAZ

 

I didn't exactly read your post, but here's how you should program the box.
https://my350z.com/forum/6078444-post124.html

 

Where are you getting you TPS signal from? Straight from an ecu pin or off the throttle body?

 

off the TB from the green wire

 

Thanks, I understand how to program the box, but on step 8 it jumps to 5V right away when I'm trying to program it, whether 5% throttle or 100% and I tried it under WOT while driving

 

Where did you tap it? You probably need to check all of your wiring first before going any further.

 

I posted it already, but the green wire coming of the TB

 

Check your ground wires and the rest of the wires. It could also be that you may have a faulty box, in which you should contact DT.

 

Having experience with dynotune units... they are tough to get to work. I never figured mine out and ended up selling the whole setup. If all else fails, MSD makes a solid product so check them out.

 

What is the voltage on the throttle position wire when you are programming? If you can verify the voltage with a volt meter you can determine if it is a wiring problem or a box problem. I've installed a dynotune window switch on a nitrous system and it was pretty easy to set up and worked the first time.

The one I installed was hooked up to ignition power - it had 3 7 segment LEDs on the front that were always on - you may want to consider rewiring it to ignition power instead of directly to the battery, just so it won't draw power when the car is off.

 

Yeah, I didn't have a problem with it, neither.

 

Yeah, I was either thinking of running it off its own switch, or the ignition, because it wasn't working coming off the nitrous switch. Would it be difficult to run it to the ignition? If not, how would I go about doing that?

 

No it wouldn't be hard at all. The box itself draws a low amount of current (should be under 1A). You could wire it to the cigarette jack, or straight to the main ignition lead to the key switch. Just make sure it is fused with an inline fuse (I think there was one on the one I installed).

 

If it only draws under 1A then what kind of fuse should I use?

 

I would use a 3-5A fuse based on the fact that is the smallest you can get in an automotive blade fuse and I don't like glass fuses.

 

if you wire it off of the cigarette lighter it will be completely off when the ignition is off and the cigarette lighter is already fused.

 

Do you know the easiest way to access the lighter wire?

 

^
I don't