Nitrous Spark Plugs
12-25-2008, 04:47 PM
#22
I usually only race the car on friday or saturday nights, but it was my daily. I'd come home Friday, let the car be sorta low on gas anyway, swap the tires, add a gallon or two of Sunoco 104 fuel (unleaded), to the 3 or 4 gallons of 93 in the tank already. End result was around 97 octane, more than enough to make up the difference for my little 60 shot and advanced timing to work well together. Lasted me through saturday at least, when monday came around, fill the car up with 93 and just don't spray again until I'm ready. That allows you to run the most aggressive tune you can on motor, while still spraying on that same setup. I have my own tuning software, so I could adjust as I needed, but in the end this worked out very simply, much easier than re-curving my timing to spray the car.
Downside is, the added cost of the better fuel (appx $10/gal for what i used), and if you try to spray the car when not on the higher octane mix, you run the risk of detonation. Normally the ECU will catch this and retard timing, but its still not a good idea. Self control is key here.
12-25-2008, 05:13 PM
#23
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You can order extra (and the appropriate) jets from their website. Also, I think some other jets from a couple of other companies (I think NOS was one of them) will also fit, but not all.
As far as the install, if you want to do everything properly and do it neatly, it'll take you a full day, maybe slightly more.
There are definitely way too many people who have this misconception of how dangerous nitrous is and blah blah. That is the case with any forced induction, not just nitrous. They're simply mistaken and/or misinformed. If don't properly, this can last you just as long, if not longer, than the other power adders. Plus, you only spray when you need to unlike turbos, for example, where you're always using them. Please don't let them spread that ******** around, it's getting annoying.
However, like any other power adders, nitrous will add extra stress to various components. Still, if you're not willing to risk what little stress you're adding (not like turbos and superchargers don't..
), then you should stay N/A.
Also, according to UpRev, there are 5 maps available on the stock ECU (at least for DEs). That's how UpRev is able to have so many maps without a piggyback, like Valet, aggressive, city driving, track, etc. So, even with a reflash, if you go to the right company who has ***** to touch nitrous (), you can get various set ups, all with their own timing changes, among other things. That is, you can have a separate nitrous map. I had a friend who had this done and UpRev also claims the same.
In addition, if you get a tune (which you should anyway.. like any other power adders), you can have separate maps. I'm pretty sure all of the popular choices, such as UTEC, FCON, Haltech, etc, have the capability to have multiple maps, so why is this even a problem? Again, somebody needs to man up.
If you're going to have only 1 map and 1 map only, then tune for nitrous. Why even tune for N/A when everytime you're going to want to go fast (such as on drag strip), you'll be using nitrous? That's a waste of a tune, if you tune for N/A when you have nitrous set up. Keep in mind that with nitrous, you need to retard timing to get the most power out of it, while N/A requires the timing to be advanced. Thus, they require different timing changes. If you advance timing and you spray nitrous, you are putting your engine at great risk (detonation). You can afford to lose a few horsepower, which you can't notice anyway, N/A if you have nitrous.
As far as higher octane goes, that is NOT a replacement for timing retardation. Higher octanes are just extra safety measures. It'll help, but with advanced timing, it won't do much. In addition, if you run big shots (100+), you should be running race gas anyway just in case.
As far as the install, if you want to do everything properly and do it neatly, it'll take you a full day, maybe slightly more.
There are definitely way too many people who have this misconception of how dangerous nitrous is and blah blah. That is the case with any forced induction, not just nitrous. They're simply mistaken and/or misinformed. If don't properly, this can last you just as long, if not longer, than the other power adders. Plus, you only spray when you need to unlike turbos, for example, where you're always using them. Please don't let them spread that ******** around, it's getting annoying.
However, like any other power adders, nitrous will add extra stress to various components. Still, if you're not willing to risk what little stress you're adding (not like turbos and superchargers don't..
), then you should stay N/A.Also, according to UpRev, there are 5 maps available on the stock ECU (at least for DEs). That's how UpRev is able to have so many maps without a piggyback, like Valet, aggressive, city driving, track, etc. So, even with a reflash, if you go to the right company who has ***** to touch nitrous (
), you can get various set ups, all with their own timing changes, among other things. That is, you can have a separate nitrous map. I had a friend who had this done and UpRev also claims the same.In addition, if you get a tune (which you should anyway.. like any other power adders), you can have separate maps. I'm pretty sure all of the popular choices, such as UTEC, FCON, Haltech, etc, have the capability to have multiple maps, so why is this even a problem? Again, somebody needs to man up.
If you're going to have only 1 map and 1 map only, then tune for nitrous. Why even tune for N/A when everytime you're going to want to go fast (such as on drag strip), you'll be using nitrous? That's a waste of a tune, if you tune for N/A when you have nitrous set up. Keep in mind that with nitrous, you need to retard timing to get the most power out of it, while N/A requires the timing to be advanced. Thus, they require different timing changes. If you advance timing and you spray nitrous, you are putting your engine at great risk (detonation). You can afford to lose a few horsepower, which you can't notice anyway, N/A if you have nitrous.
As far as higher octane goes, that is NOT a replacement for timing retardation. Higher octanes are just extra safety measures. It'll help, but with advanced timing, it won't do much. In addition, if you run big shots (100+), you should be running race gas anyway just in case.
12-25-2008, 08:31 PM
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You can order extra (and the appropriate) jets from their website. Also, I think some other jets from a couple of other companies (I think NOS was one of them) will also fit, but not all.
As far as the install, if you want to do everything properly and do it neatly, it'll take you a full day, maybe slightly more.
There are definitely way too many people who have this misconception of how dangerous nitrous is and blah blah. That is the case with any forced induction, not just nitrous. They're simply mistaken and/or misinformed. If don't properly, this can last you just as long, if not longer, than the other power adders. Plus, you only spray when you need to unlike turbos, for example, where you're always using them. Please don't let them spread that ******** around, it's getting annoying.
However, like any other power adders, nitrous will add extra stress to various components. Still, if you're not willing to risk what little stress you're adding (not like turbos and superchargers don't..), then you should stay N/A.
Also, according to UpRev, there are 5 maps available on the stock ECU (at least for DEs). That's how UpRev is able to have so many maps without a piggyback, like Valet, aggressive, city driving, track, etc. So, even with a reflash, if you go to the right company who has ***** to touch nitrous (), you can get various set ups, all with their own timing changes, among other things. That is, you can have a separate nitrous map. I had a friend who had this done and UpRev also claims the same.
In addition, if you get a tune (which you should anyway.. like any other power adders), you can have separate maps. I'm pretty sure all of the popular choices, such as UTEC, FCON, Haltech, etc, have the capability to have multiple maps, so why is this even a problem? Again, somebody needs to man up.
If you're going to have only 1 map and 1 map only, then tune for nitrous. Why even tune for N/A when everytime you're going to want to go fast (such as on drag strip), you'll be using nitrous? That's a waste of a tune, if you tune for N/A when you have nitrous set up. Keep in mind that with nitrous, you need to retard timing to get the most power out of it, while N/A requires the timing to be advanced. Thus, they require different timing changes. If you advance timing and you spray nitrous, you are putting your engine at great risk (detonation). You can afford to lose a few horsepower, which you can't notice anyway, N/A if you have nitrous.
As far as higher octane goes, that is NOT a replacement for timing retardation. Higher octanes are just extra safety measures. It'll help, but with advanced timing, it won't do much. In addition, if you run big shots (100+), you should be running race gas anyway just in case.
As far as the install, if you want to do everything properly and do it neatly, it'll take you a full day, maybe slightly more.
There are definitely way too many people who have this misconception of how dangerous nitrous is and blah blah. That is the case with any forced induction, not just nitrous. They're simply mistaken and/or misinformed. If don't properly, this can last you just as long, if not longer, than the other power adders. Plus, you only spray when you need to unlike turbos, for example, where you're always using them. Please don't let them spread that ******** around, it's getting annoying.
However, like any other power adders, nitrous will add extra stress to various components. Still, if you're not willing to risk what little stress you're adding (not like turbos and superchargers don't..
), then you should stay N/A.Also, according to UpRev, there are 5 maps available on the stock ECU (at least for DEs). That's how UpRev is able to have so many maps without a piggyback, like Valet, aggressive, city driving, track, etc. So, even with a reflash, if you go to the right company who has ***** to touch nitrous (
), you can get various set ups, all with their own timing changes, among other things. That is, you can have a separate nitrous map. I had a friend who had this done and UpRev also claims the same.In addition, if you get a tune (which you should anyway.. like any other power adders), you can have separate maps. I'm pretty sure all of the popular choices, such as UTEC, FCON, Haltech, etc, have the capability to have multiple maps, so why is this even a problem? Again, somebody needs to man up.
If you're going to have only 1 map and 1 map only, then tune for nitrous. Why even tune for N/A when everytime you're going to want to go fast (such as on drag strip), you'll be using nitrous? That's a waste of a tune, if you tune for N/A when you have nitrous set up. Keep in mind that with nitrous, you need to retard timing to get the most power out of it, while N/A requires the timing to be advanced. Thus, they require different timing changes. If you advance timing and you spray nitrous, you are putting your engine at great risk (detonation). You can afford to lose a few horsepower, which you can't notice anyway, N/A if you have nitrous.
As far as higher octane goes, that is NOT a replacement for timing retardation. Higher octanes are just extra safety measures. It'll help, but with advanced timing, it won't do much. In addition, if you run big shots (100+), you should be running race gas anyway just in case.
12-25-2008, 09:25 PM
#25
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Do you think if I got the Uprev accessport do you think they could keep the exact tune I have right now from technosquare and just add a map for valet and a map for nitrous tuned by them? If so, I think imma start saving up, cause this way i woudl ahve the advaced timing for the most power NA and when I want to use the bottle I'll have the retarded timing for the most power.
. I Have 500$ saved up so I have enough for the dynotune kit, however I need to save a bit more so I can still get the rest of the goodies. I'll let everyone know how it goes. 
12-25-2008, 09:29 PM
#26
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I'm not UpRev, so I can't give you an answer for that. Searching or asking the appropriate people would give you the answer you're seeking.
Also, you guys are so held up by how much power you're making. That's all pointless. That number means nothing, so stop being so fixated on the dyno numbers. Go to the track and prove how much power your car makes, rather than talking about some number spit out by a machine.
Also, you guys are so held up by how much power you're making. That's all pointless. That number means nothing, so stop being so fixated on the dyno numbers. Go to the track and prove how much power your car makes, rather than talking about some number spit out by a machine.
12-25-2008, 09:37 PM
#27
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I'm not UpRev, so I can't give you an answer for that. Searching or asking the appropriate people would give you the answer you're seeking.
Also, you guys are so held up by how much power you're making. That's all pointless. That number means nothing, so stop being so fixated on the dyno numbers. Go to the track and prove how much power your car makes, rather than talking about some number spit out by a machine.
Also, you guys are so held up by how much power you're making. That's all pointless. That number means nothing, so stop being so fixated on the dyno numbers. Go to the track and prove how much power your car makes, rather than talking about some number spit out by a machine.
12-26-2008, 09:47 AM
#28
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Thx a lot for the info, i got uprev and cobb mixed up but i found out that Uprev can do 5 maps on the stock ecu which is controled by the cruise control button so that's the route i'm going to go with egnine management.
12-26-2008, 10:56 AM
#29
I'm doing that same general idea. Going to keep the same map I have now so I can still have a powerful N/A car, but going to just add another map for when I spray... The piggyback I have can hold up to 4 maps, so I should be fine . I Have 500$ saved up so I have enough for the dynotune kit, however I need to save a bit more so I can still get the rest of the goodies. I'll let everyone know how it goes.
. I Have 500$ saved up so I have enough for the dynotune kit, however I need to save a bit more so I can still get the rest of the goodies. I'll let everyone know how it goes.
01-30-2019, 02:05 PM
#30
Registered User
DE Plugs - Standard, One Step, Two Step Colder
Below are the plugs for the DE engine (2003-2006)
Standard: NGK 6240 (PLFR5A-11)
One Step Colder: NGK 7654 (PLFR6A-11) The "6" denotes one step colder
Two Step Colder: NGK 2309 (LFR7AIX) These have the same thread, pitch and reach as the standard PLFR5A-11 but the "7" denotes two-step colder.
Standard: NGK 6240 (PLFR5A-11)
One Step Colder: NGK 7654 (PLFR6A-11) The "6" denotes one step colder
Two Step Colder: NGK 2309 (LFR7AIX) These have the same thread, pitch and reach as the standard PLFR5A-11 but the "7" denotes two-step colder.
09-06-2019, 10:42 AM
#32
Hi, I ran a 125 Dry kit, 94 F150 safer will not catch fire with bad timing or backfire, also I ran a copper core plug, lasted much longer. Final numbers 12.8 @ 104mph from a 5.0 ltr (302) automatic, good luck.
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