Not in a while from what I understand, but I haven't been out there in 3 months. I loved Sunoco like a year and a half ago, when it was fun and you could stay there all night. I got so many runs out there, I had trouble finding races :lol:

Nobody wanted to run a Cobalt, they just knew they were all garbage, until I told them I had the yellow one, then it was "oh, not that one, thats the fast one"

I miss my car

 

Ahhhhh, love my car

 

people still go to the sunoco on friday and saturday nights... rumor is that the owner of sunoco made a deal with the cops because he makes alot of money off all the gas / race gas he's selling, so the cops dont kick you out anymore.. However once some ricer idiot comes and does a burnout or something stupid, then they'll kick everyone out..

Usually around midnight everyone is at the other spot though... its on the left side of highway 27 just north of i75.

 

.

 

Yeah, it used to be fun like that 2 years ago, the idiots ruined it to the point that they wouldn't let us hang there anymore at all. Last time my car was out there, UGAS was still open. Been a while now

 

Lol, I had a corolla two years ago so all I did was spectate. I remember this spot right across from Denney's, past the rail road tracks and behind some buildings, every digged there and that sh*t used to get packed! Dunno what happened to that.. I stopped going for a few months and now no one goes back there anymore. Also, right on okee where everyone used to park on the grass for miles.. damn that was the sh*t..

 

Hehe, Medley spot was great. I got in some good runs there, but it was too easy to get blocked in by the cops, there was only one way in and out. I actually had to run out of there one night with about 5 other cars, ended up doing really high speeds down some little ****ing back road for way too long. Not a good time.

The spot on the bend at Okee was the best spot ever, tons of people, no traffic, constant dig runs, awesome. Unfortunately, you can't do that **** on such a main street, truckers were calling cops on people that were blocking the road off.

 

Good news, got my car dynoed on a dynojet with the dynotune 125 crank shot.

Anyways, did 3 4th gear pulls. First run was N/A. The second and third run I Sprayed at 1100 psi. Bottle was about half full at about 21 lbs.
Best pull was 381.54whp and 342ft. lbs. Torque is low because I sprayed at 4000rpms.

I'm planning on upping the nitrous jet a size or 2 bigger because the mixture right now is running rich (Air/fuel drops down to 10's). I'm planning on going again with a full bottle and bigger nitrous jets hoping to break 400whp Anyways, here's the graph.

 

Nice numbers! I'm little confused of why your torque was so low, you said you sprayed at 4,000 RPMs with the 125 but on the first post I quote

"Made 360whp / 351torque on a mustang dyno with Dynotune's 100 shot (Equivalent to Nitrous Express's 75 shot). Sprayed at 4k RPM & cut off at 7k. Bottle was heated and pressure was increased to 1100, however My bottle was poorly filled, there was much more compressed air over nitrous..."

so, that said.. with a low bottle of only 100 shot spraying at the same RPMs you made more torque.

Question for everyone, if I spray at 5,000 RPMs I'll get less torque? Meaning if the system is properly tuned with a 125 shot my engine would last longer? I'm starting to like this nitrous stuff especially since you're getting more HP over torque so it's running like a FI car, or so it seems.

 

You get more peak torque the earlier you spray, simple physics. Yes, spraying only at higher rpms reduces the torque 'hit' on the engine, and would in theory make it less stressful on the comonents.

Why is everyone running bottles at 1100-1200 psi all the time? Set the car up properly for 950-1000 psi where it should be.

JKZ, in your case, you need to do quite a bit of adjustment if you have the bottle that high and are still in the 10's. I would suggest a smaller fuel jet first, to maintain the strength of the shot. Get the a/f's steady on the 125 shot, then bump them up to whatever it takes to break 400whp. I'm guessing around a .045 nitrous jet on each side with the bottle at 1000 psi should do it.

 

Dyno numbers really don't mean anything, so quit basing any assumptions off of the dyno numbers (hp and tq). As you guys begin to understand more about nitrous, you'll know when to relate and when not to relate to the dyno numbers.

Also, you don't really want to play with the nitrous jet size, unless you're comfortable that going higher will not have any detrimental effects on the engine components and know what you're doing. You want to play with the fuel jet before you start messing with the nitrous jet. That few extra "whp" you're seeking don't really mean anything and mean nothing when your motor is in bits and pieces. And again, that dyno number doesn't mean **** in real life.

Please, listen to the people who are experienced with nitrous than you guys are - you can easily tell who these people are. If you're not going to listen to them, then quit asking questions.

If you spray at 3000 rpm vs 6000 rpm, at the former engine speed, the nitrous is being fed twice the amount that is being fed at the latter engine speed. That is the simplest explanation I can give as to why there's such a big hit at lower engine speed than at higher engine speeds (assuming the shot size, bottle pressure, fuel pressure, etc are constants). If you don't understand this, then read until it does.

And the optimum bottle pressure is 950-1050 psi. Don't go over or under this range - there's a reason why this is highly recommended and stressed.



Sorry, if I sound a bit abrasive, but some of you newer guys to nitrous aren't exactly doing your homework and using logic.

 

Amen.

I should get all these south FL guys together and have a nitrous education class.

 

I have had the dynotune kit for about a year i guess now and still working like a champ.

HR loves the laughing gas, and i just took the heads off about a month ago to do a little work on them and so far no pitting, plugs are in shape and no problems.

My kit is non safety though, just push button. And been running only 100 shot in my current area since gas is only 90 octane, but houston i put the 150 in since they have better gas down there. Enjoy the kit !

I'm really looking into meth injection to solve my little octane prob here.

 

I've already tried messing with the fuel jets, since the mixture was running a bit too rich, i changed out the fuel jets on each side from 22 to 20. My in-car wideband was reading 13's wot so I switched them back to the 22's. I Take my word back about increasing the Nitrous jet's, instead I'm just going to lean out my nitrous tune just a tad bit and the air/fuel should be fine.


"Also, you don't really want to play with the nitrous jet size, unless you're comfortable that going higher will not have any detrimental effects on the engine components and know what you're doing. You want to play with the fuel jet before you start messing with the nitrous jet. That few extra "whp" you're seeking don't really mean anything and mean nothing when your motor is in bits and pieces. And again, that dyno number doesn't mean **** in real life."
~I've already played with the fuel jets, which is why I was going to plan on messing with the nitrous jets.

"And the optimum bottle pressure is 950-1050 psi. Don't go over or under this range - there's a reason why this is highly recommended and stressed."
~What's so harmful about spraying 50 more psi then the recommended 1050?

"Dyno numbers really don't mean anything, so quit basing any assumptions off of the dyno numbers (hp and tq). As you guys begin to understand more about nitrous, you'll know when to relate and when not to relate to the dyno numbers."
~I posted this dyno sheet so people could see the difference between dynotune's 100shot and 125shot. Also, someone requested a dynosheet from the 1st page of this thread.

"Sorry, if I sound a bit abrasive, but some of you newer guys to nitrous aren't exactly doing your homework and using logic."
~If your referring to me, How am I unlogical?

 

I can't tell from your dyno graph so I don't exactly know where your AFR is. However, it's not that difficult to obtain pretty close to where you need your AFR to be using just the different jet sizes. If you can't get it, then that's where the tune comes in handy. You do what you need to hit the AFR you need.

950-1050 psi is recommended for optimum fuel-nitrous mixture. Fuel pressure is relatively constant, but bottle pressure is not (here's where the logic kicks in). If your bottle pressure is too high, that means you're spraying a greater amount of nitrous for the same amount of fuel - this leads to a lean condition. If your bottle pressure is too low, that means you're spraying less amount of nitrous for the same amount of fuel - this leads to a rich condition.

When I was talking about dyno numbers, I was talking about how people are talking about how "my whp is higher than xxx," "my tq # is too low," "my #s don't seem right for XX shot," etc. Dyno is a tool used for tuning, not some bench racing and number comparisons. Take the dyno numbers for what it is, but don't think it really means anything.

Read around the nitrous forum and you'll see what I mean by logic/common sense when you see some of the posts recently (it may or may not have been you, specifically.. except when you asked about why +50 psi matters in the above post). I know some of you guys are just getting into all this, but thinking before asking/posting does go a long way.

 

back from teh dead. is everyone in this thread still running thier setups with no problems? i am on the verge of adding N20 to my Z. Lots of good info being passed around in this thread

 

bump!

 

Bump


Any other experiences?