Possible nitrous setup
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Possible nitrous setup
Hey guys,
Well ive been thinking about going nitrous for awhile, ive been doing ALOTT of research about, for the last couple weeks i have been in the N20 section non stop. I havent driven my car in about 10 months so im thinking about putting it back on the road with a 100 shot. My fiance and I are trying to get a house so turbo is out of the question but she fully supports my nitrous decision if i were to go with it. (YEp shes a keeper..lol)My Z has a bunch of bolt-ons including a utec and jwt clutch/flywheel, and made pretty surprising numbers after a tune on the mustang dyno(dyno sheet is posted somewhere on the forum still)So i think the nitrous would compliment my setup very nicely. So heres what im thinking so far:
dynotune wetsystem 350z
dynotune purge system
nitrous blanket(dont know if i need the heater in florida)
n20 psi guage
Round 2-1/16" Nitrous Switch Center
1 step colder plugs
nitrous jets for 100 shot(not sure which ones)
cubby hole gauge pod wrapped in CF
I still need to do some research as to if i need anything for the utec to control the nitrous and what jets i need to run a 100 shot. And im still looking into alot of everyday Do's and Donts, but wut do u guys think so far??? Its still a toss up but just trying to get some feedback. If your here to flame please dont bother posting!!!! Thanks
Joe
Well ive been thinking about going nitrous for awhile, ive been doing ALOTT of research about, for the last couple weeks i have been in the N20 section non stop. I havent driven my car in about 10 months so im thinking about putting it back on the road with a 100 shot. My fiance and I are trying to get a house so turbo is out of the question but she fully supports my nitrous decision if i were to go with it. (YEp shes a keeper..lol)My Z has a bunch of bolt-ons including a utec and jwt clutch/flywheel, and made pretty surprising numbers after a tune on the mustang dyno(dyno sheet is posted somewhere on the forum still)So i think the nitrous would compliment my setup very nicely. So heres what im thinking so far:
dynotune wetsystem 350z
dynotune purge system
nitrous blanket(dont know if i need the heater in florida)
n20 psi guage
Round 2-1/16" Nitrous Switch Center
1 step colder plugs
nitrous jets for 100 shot(not sure which ones)
cubby hole gauge pod wrapped in CF
I still need to do some research as to if i need anything for the utec to control the nitrous and what jets i need to run a 100 shot. And im still looking into alot of everyday Do's and Donts, but wut do u guys think so far??? Its still a toss up but just trying to get some feedback. If your here to flame please dont bother posting!!!! Thanks
Joe
#5
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Your dyno numbers don't mean jack until you can prove those numbers with some time slips from the drag strip. Don't get so caught up on the dyno numbers.
Bottle heater is required if you want to use your nitrous and not just purge for show. No weather can increase the bottle pressure to 1000+ psi and maintain it.
Jet sizes vary from car to car. Find out what the recommended sizes are for a 100 shot for our Z, increase the fuel size a little for safety and find out the AFR. From there, adjust your fuel size to achieve the desired AFR.
I'm not sure if nitrous + certain UTEC firmware issue was ever resolved, but for a 100 shot, a tune isn't required. It will definitely allow you to run the system safely, though. Who'll be doing the tuning?
Keep doing your research on and off the forums. It looks like you're on the right track, though.
Bottle heater is required if you want to use your nitrous and not just purge for show. No weather can increase the bottle pressure to 1000+ psi and maintain it.
Jet sizes vary from car to car. Find out what the recommended sizes are for a 100 shot for our Z, increase the fuel size a little for safety and find out the AFR. From there, adjust your fuel size to achieve the desired AFR.
I'm not sure if nitrous + certain UTEC firmware issue was ever resolved, but for a 100 shot, a tune isn't required. It will definitely allow you to run the system safely, though. Who'll be doing the tuning?
Keep doing your research on and off the forums. It looks like you're on the right track, though.
#6
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As a general idea, 100 shot jets will be in the 46/30 range for a single fogger.
Warmer is the most important for consistency, I needed one and i'm further south than you are. At night or in the shade, temps get below 90 degrees, bottle cools down, you lose power. You want the bottle around 90-100 degrees, whatever it takes to achieve 950-1000 psi. It will be warm to the touch.
I did leave the bottle in the car while it was parked in the sun for a couple hours on a regular basis though. I could see 1100-1200 psi just from that, it goes away as soon as you start spraying though.
Warmer is the most important for consistency, I needed one and i'm further south than you are. At night or in the shade, temps get below 90 degrees, bottle cools down, you lose power. You want the bottle around 90-100 degrees, whatever it takes to achieve 950-1000 psi. It will be warm to the touch.
I did leave the bottle in the car while it was parked in the sun for a couple hours on a regular basis though. I could see 1100-1200 psi just from that, it goes away as soon as you start spraying though.
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thanks for the info guys....i am still in the process of doing research trying to do this right the first time safetly....i will prob be going to hp logic in ft. lauderdale for the install
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#8
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Without the utec, just wideband 02 and *** dyno tune from there? I figured at a 100 shot a good tune was almost a must to keep it safe...
#9
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Good people over there, I dyno'd my car there way back when I first got it. I've installed a bunch of kits for people on differnet cars, it's really not that hard if you don't mind doing the wiring, which I don't. Biggest thing is to be clean and get everything right the first time, it's a pain to chase down problems after everything is installed.
#12
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Well, a tune will always be better. I was just saying people have had no issues so far with up to a 100 shot untuned. If you can afford a tune, then you should definitely get it.
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#16
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BTW, a tune and simply retarding the timing are two different things. A tune may require the timing to be adjusted, but just because you have adjusted your timing, it doesn't mean you have a tune.
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thanks for the helpful tips guys, i priced it out im looking at about 1000 in parts, plus i got to get a quote on install and tune...so im guessing like 1500 said and done, that sound right to you guys
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FIRST: You really dont need to be tuned for N20. Just check the AFR while spraying at the correct pressure. Make sure its around mid 11's and spray away! Im talking 100 shot and under here. Make sure you get the Dynotune bottle warmer, all others are crap.
SECOND: Get in good with a shop that fills nitrous, youll be there every weekend getting it filled. After a while they give you a deal. I used to get mine for $20 a bottle, now I fill my own. Keep a spare bottle in the garage handy, A 100 shot goes real quick.
THIRD: Find all your friends with boosted Z's and beat them. PRICELESS!
SECOND: Get in good with a shop that fills nitrous, youll be there every weekend getting it filled. After a while they give you a deal. I used to get mine for $20 a bottle, now I fill my own. Keep a spare bottle in the garage handy, A 100 shot goes real quick.
THIRD: Find all your friends with boosted Z's and beat them. PRICELESS!
Last edited by twitch579; 02-11-2010 at 06:16 PM.
#19
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For bottle warmers, what about other good manufacturers like NOS etc, as long as it's automatic with the pressure switch?