So even though you have significantly lower dyno numbers with the nitrous, it was still faster?

 

that's consistant with the searching i've done on this and other forums about the gas...

many say it there kinda power!

but like stated above the refill factor is a pain and costly path...

but kicking A$$ ain't cheap either!

 

twitch579, are you brake boosting (assuming you're spraying off the drag strip )?


BTW, nitrous gives you that insane torque surge at the lower RPMs, which really helps propel the car as soon as you mash the gas; no waiting for the turbos to spool and make power in the top end. N2O FTW!

 

I just installed a ZEX kit on my G35 with the traction window switch.

The only question I have is what is a safe RPM to turn on/off the nitrous using the window switch.

Where are you guys set at on your WS?

I know spraying below 3k is not safe.

 

You rarely need it at lower RPMs, so I'd start it out at 3.5K to be on the safe side.

As far as the other end of it, I'd put this as close to your rev limiter as possible, but it depends on your transmission. I wouldn't trust the stock auto shifting, so I'd set it lower. If you're 6MT, then it depends on your preference.

 

I've heard very similar stories and I've also heard of turbo guys saying they wish they just went full bolt ons and spray. I'm assuming you had a 75 shot, correct? Also, an altenative to paying so much for nitrous since you use it so often is to get the tanks yourself in your garage. I was thinking of doing it at one point a while ago because a lot of my friends used it including myself so it was coming out extremely cheap for all of us to split it

 

No doubt about that!

 

you blow linda's engine, i keel ju

 

BUMP

 

I been running a 75rwhp shot for about 4 or 5 months on my 06 Z. Haven't been to the track yet. Its tuned with uprev software for n/a, i just spray on the stock map. Car has 58,000 miles but engine only has around 41,000 after been replaced for oil consumption.

List:

-Dynotune kit, heater & window switch
-NGK one-step colder copper plugs
-Nitrous filter
-Innovate Wideband

The 75 shot is fun, helped my beat my bro's 6.0 gto(stock), damn that things a beast lol. Curious about the 100shot. I have the jets just need a tune with it.

 

^ Usually, tuning N/A means advance timing to get the most power out of it. With nitrous, you want to retard timing, which is the opposite. If you're tuned for N/A, then I wouldn't spray nitrous on top of that. Make sure you get a proper tune for the nitrous before spraying.

 

I understand that. With the osiris software i have 5 maps. One of those maps are the n/a tuned map and then i have a stock map. I do take your advice as you are the one that was answering all my pms about installing nitrous.

 

Thanks, I'll take that as a compliment. Don't just take everything I say at face value, though; I can be wrong, too, sometimes.

 

Haha.So hows the 100 shot treating you? Im starting to get a lil bored with the 75 shot lol. I know you been running yours for awhile right?

 

03z 50 shot dynotune kit with heater, window switch spraying at 3k rpm to 6500 on manual transmision. I have been through 2 bottles and it works flawlessly so far. Im spraying a 50 shot with one step colder plugs, no tune, hopefully get 75 shot soon. I want to take it to track on 50 since im still a noob at track.

Im paying 10 bucks a lb so the cost can add up. Hopefully get the Z to a track after thanksgiving.
Best hp for the buck in my opinion.

 

lovie_350z - I haven't been able to spray because something's wrong with the wiring and it needs to be fixed. It worked fine when it worked, pulling strong.

aggie05 - I like your logic. And $10/lb is crazy.

 

man my dreams of any kind of power is being robbed

called around for some numbers on refills


this cat said $15 a pound!

what the **** I'm I gonna do with that...

yet I keep pricing this stuff out

 

I have a couple of newb questions for the track. I've run turbo before, but not nitrous.

1. How long do I keep the bottle warmer on for till the desired pressure is reached or leave it on?

2. What do you check for prior to a run?

3. How long to purge? (I don't have a interior pressure gauge yet just on the bottle)

4. Any other pointers for the track? I plan to try it out next weekend after my tune for the 100shot. My best N/A is 13.2@104 in a G35.

Nitrous is $5-$5.50lb here.

 

Thats wayyyyy overpriced. Where I'm at nitrous runs $2.50-$5 a pound.

 

i'll let 3hree5ive0ero chime in with his opinions to those questions since he seems to be quite experienced.

From what I perosonally experienced, the bottle warmers have kill switches that heat to a certain point and once that temperature is reached it will turn off. Once the temp drops below a certain temperature it will come back on. Before a run to be completely safe, just ensure pressure is right and check your usual things to make sure the car itself is running right. You only need to purge for just a split second because you're just getting any air out of the lines. Back when I first used nitrous if we didn't have a purge what we would do at the line is turn the main switch on and stab the gas once so that the nitrous activates for a second and cleans out the line. This is providing you have it on a WOT switch so that once you stab the gas once, it barely activates and lets a little bit of nitrous out of the line and cleans out anything else in there, won't cause any harm since it's only for a split second. As for the track, I'd say only spray it off the line if you are running slicks, if not you will spin a lot. Also, make sure your clutch can handle all that power and once again make sure everything is running right. Currently you have a great N/A time. With a 100 shot and perfect launch on slicks and some good driving which i'm sure you're capable of if you're at 13.2, you'll cut a very low 60 foot and possibly pull a low 12 if not very high 11 if your lucky. Enjoy