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Blown up your Z with nitrous?! Tell us about it

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Old May 9, 2011 | 09:10 PM
  #61  
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06 350z revup. Currently 79k miles, installed dynotune wet kit at 52k

75 shot
No timing
Unichip af tune
Dynoed 323whp 350wtq

Nitrous kicks on at 3k, and I've been through approximately 35-40 bottles, and the car gets raced, sees 7500 rpms pretty frequently. So far no problems, car is daily driven.

Have nozzles for up to 150shot, waiting to get a different tune then revisiting dyno.
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Old May 9, 2011 | 09:40 PM
  #62  
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So, no real disasters when you're safe about it? And reliable power on demand.

I'm excited to get mine tuned. I'm at 310whp/280wtq fully built NA w/ cams. I'm hoping to get to about 360whp/360wtq with a 75 shot.

I'm looking to rev it out, with an RPM window switch, from 4k to 8k or maybe beyond...

Last edited by kacz07; May 9, 2011 at 09:42 PM.
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Old May 10, 2011 | 12:11 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by djamps
If you do it in Cipher you'll lose the retard every time the battery is disconnected... yea that sucks.

Have a tuner use ROM Editor so it's permanent.
Actually, Jared @ UpRev told me that it becomes part of the ECU ROM so it doesn't reset with a battery disconnect. I had my timing pulled via Cipher a while back and I had disconnected the battery and even changed the battery since then. I recently checked my timing via a different Cipher a week ago and it was still at -2º.
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Old May 10, 2011 | 06:42 PM
  #64  
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Installed nitrous on the Z back in 2005ish. Maybe early 2006. Did a 75 shot for a few weeks. Butt dyno didn't really feel much. I had some bolt ons and a tune at the time. (evo 2, aam spacer, strup test pipes, dc headers, utec, and a k&n typhoon intake).

on the nitrous side...I had the NX wet kit, dynotune tps/window switch, purge, bottle warmer and the nitrous tune on the Utec when we bumped it to 150 shot.

Ran strong, made 366/438. 150 was a little too much for the street...so I didn't use it too too often. Maybe a 2-3 bottles a month. Forgot to change maps one day and left it on the all motor tune...after a spraying a few times, I broke a ring land. First mishap with nitrous in all my years...and it was human error. All my other cars never had any other issues for using spray.

Built the motor completely after that (2007) and threw on boost. Added a intercooler spray bar and put the nitrous back online just the other day. 100 shot jets in her now on top of the boost. The guys who say nitrous is rice hasn't got a clue. Best **** on earth...read up on the history of nitrous and you'll see is was engineered into airplane engines in WWII. They called it WEP - War Emergency Power. Fighter pilots used them for 5-10 minutes when they needed quick altitude or were in a dog fight. So I guess the WWII pilots of the P51, corsair, PJ, etc are all ricers huh?
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Old May 10, 2011 | 07:21 PM
  #65  
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^ Let the ignorant be ignorant. More spray for us.

BTW, I'm still waiting on more info on your set up - numbers, charts, anything.
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Old May 12, 2011 | 01:12 PM
  #66  
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I'll post some vids of the new dyno tune. Been at a conservative 13psi on greddy twins for years now on a built motor. Roughly 5k miles on the build....finally getting around to making some big boy numbers. Next tune will be 20psi and 100-150 shot.
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Old May 25, 2011 | 05:40 PM
  #67  
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I have been running a 75 shot now for about a year. I have a .23 fuel jet and a .32 nos jet. I’m tuning with Cobb ATR software. When on motor and when I spry my A/F stays about the same. 11.5-11.8. When my bottle gets cold, it starts hitting in the 10s. So I just flash my stage 1 map and it puts it back to mid to high 11s.
Have not ran this set up at the track. My best time is 13.3@108. That’s before the fuel pump and I was running .18 fuel and .32 nos jets. (Lean, no WB).
My 60ft is dad. Lol But not a bad Trap speed for a G35 on heavy 20” rims. Need to invest in some 18”. Lol. 20+ bottles feed to the VQ. So far all is good. No oil consumption and the car is running strong. Started spraying around 80K, now at 104+ miles.
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Old Jun 19, 2011 | 01:54 PM
  #68  
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Gotta get my yellowtop warrantied, then the new tune when the new battery gets here. Getting butterflies. lol
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Old Jun 21, 2011 | 01:23 PM
  #69  
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did a 100 shot for a while, 1 step colder plugs, stock timing, window switch, wot switch, wideband, kept melting plugs, added meth injection, then it made terrible detonation. pulled the meth off and still had problems, was never lean, a/f were low and was always rich. will a/fs be different depending on what gear you are in? for example, will 5000rpm in first gear have the same a/f as 5000rpm in 4th gear on spray? i think i almost always monitored my a/fs in first, but would spray pretty high. i have an auto too.

i now have no compression in cyl #4, in the process of building a fully bolted NA and will get a professional tune for a 150 shot
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Old Jun 21, 2011 | 03:16 PM
  #70  
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AFR is independent of gear because the engine is always doing the same thing and the only thing that changes is its RPM.
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Old Jun 21, 2011 | 03:46 PM
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The more I read about nitrous the more I want to spray haha...How easy is it to put AFR gauge on an 03? This always confused me because I know the 03's have a narrowband sensor and I'd be looking to get the AEM wideband gauge for better accuracy when spraying. Is that a dumb question?
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Old Jun 21, 2011 | 03:50 PM
  #72  
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You weld a O2 bung to your exhaust (usually at the driver's side test pipe or cat), screw in the O2 sensor for the AFR there and route the wires/gauge to wherever you want -- done.
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Old Jun 21, 2011 | 03:54 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by 3hree5ive0ero
AFR is independent of gear because the engine is always doing the same thing and the only thing that changes is its RPM.
That was always the logic I followed too but I swear I remember reading somewhere that if would lean out more the faster you go. Maybe more air goes in at speed with air moving around the vehicle, idk. Either way, my situation is a mystery cause I was pig *** rich and melting plugs
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Old Jun 21, 2011 | 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 3hree5ive0ero
You weld a O2 bung to your exhaust (usually at the driver's side test pipe or cat), screw in the O2 sensor for the AFR there and route the wires/gauge to wherever you want -- done.
Oh thats easy enough. Thanks
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Old Jun 23, 2011 | 05:26 AM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by mgrotel
did a 100 shot for a while, 1 step colder plugs, stock timing, window switch, wot switch, wideband, kept melting plugs, added meth injection, then it made terrible detonation. pulled the meth off and still had problems, was never lean, a/f were low and was always rich. will a/fs be different depending on what gear you are in? for example, will 5000rpm in first gear have the same a/f as 5000rpm in 4th gear on spray? i think i almost always monitored my a/fs in first, but would spray pretty high. i have an auto too.

i now have no compression in cyl #4, in the process of building a fully bolted NA and will get a professional tune for a 150 shot
sounds like you have clogged up cats. are the colder plugs platinum? if so switch to copper
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Old Jun 23, 2011 | 06:07 AM
  #76  
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not the cats, copper plugs
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Old Jun 26, 2011 | 07:12 PM
  #77  
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mgrotel, you sprayed meth and nitrous down the intake? you're brave. that's too much crap to stuff down the plenum.

My advice, if you're gonna build the motor and keep the spray...get a good ems and then use a progressive controller or a 2 stage setup. anymore than a 150 shot all at once is hard on the motor and almost impossible to manage on the street without sliding over one lane.
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Old Jun 26, 2011 | 07:54 PM
  #78  
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Well the whole idea of meth inj is to effectively raise the octane rating allowing you to be more aggressive with timing/boost, right? I had the meth/water nozzle before the nit/fuel nozzle
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Old Jul 8, 2011 | 08:15 PM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by mgrotel
Well the whole idea of meth inj is to effectively raise the octane rating allowing you to be more aggressive with timing/boost, right? I had the meth/water nozzle before the nit/fuel nozzle
meth/water injection cools the air/cylinder temps, that's where it gets its octane boost from....nitrous does the same thing until its burned (cools). its just too much **** down the intake. seriously. you want anything you put down the intake to atomize...makes it more difficult the more you force down the intake...especially when its 4 different substances (gas, water, nitrous, meth). Only so much volumn in the pipe/plenum. Not enough space to atomize = puddling. And that's a big no no in the nitrous world. You'll be quoting fast and the furious when it goes boom.

want more octane for boost + nitrous?...run e85 or C/Q16. If you just want to run more boost, meth is good for that.
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Old Jul 8, 2011 | 11:50 PM
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The car isn't turbo'd, just a simple 100 that was a complete fail and I have no idea why when others have done it successfully
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