I have a few questions to ask before installing my setup:

I have an HR and will be installing a 100hp via dynotune No2 system.

I also have a Utec to control the nitrous and timing.

Questions:

What octane fuel is best for nitrous? Here in Canada we get up to 94 at the pump.

Is it a wise idea to buy a lean cut off switch?

Are CAI (like nismo, fujita, aem) going to help me make more whp. I currently have K&N drop in filters.

How about a HFC/ test pipes?

Thanks!

 

Higher octane is usually safer, but higher doesn't always mean better.

If you're going to get a nitrous tune, then the lean cut off switch may not be necessary. Having one is always better than not having one.

All intakes give similar gains; stick with the K&N drop in filters. Test pipes > HFC > cats.

 

Just a word on the CAI question.

While they may not help with the time you spray they will help your engine run better. By that I mean smoother, which will help not put as much of a sudden shock on the engine.

Another way to help with the sudden hit is to get a controller, which Dynotune has a nice one. I have it and must say it works perfect and easy to set up. Remember if you disconnect your battery you have to reset it.

The HFC, or test pipes if you can get away with it, will really make the difference.

 

I will look into getting some test pipes or HFC then. I have read up un the dynotune controller and it has some very nice features. If I am tuning with UTEC can I still run the controller unit?

 

UTEC is easy to use for programming a N2O MAP. I would also use a TPAS, window switch such as MSD 8969 and low fuel pressure cutout switch. I agree w/350ero lean cutout is not necessary but a good safety back up.

UTEC has ability to actuate N2O solenoid but will not help if you hit the rev limiter. Window switch will disengage N20 until 200 RPM below High RPM cutout you program.

 

How does a CAI help you smooth out the "sudden shock on the engine?" All CAI does is pull "colder" air through a longer pipe. You spray nitrous just like you would a short ram or direct port. The dramatic increase in power will always be present with nitrous, unless you have a progressive controller (which itself is hard on the solenoids) or a 2 stage (which still has it's own smaller "shock" on the engine). Would you mind explaining a bit further?
Yes, but why? The UTEC will be able to do everything that the Dynotune window switch/TPS can, if I'm not mistaken. It's redundant.

 

The CAI helps with the shock by making the off spray and on spray power difference not as great.

 

Hmmmm good to know!

 

Yes it will except that the Dynotune can gradually inject nitrous to lessen the shock of the engine. Everything else the UTEC can do. I like the unit but I think I'll spend the $$ on the lean cut-off switch first.

 

As long as there is some sort of fail safe switch you're good.

 

The only dynotune unit that can do that is the progressive controller, unless you have a 2 stage switch with the associated equipment.

On top of what 3hree5ive0ero said, you can inject nitrous at a higher rpm or higher gear to lessen the amount of torque associated with the nitrous, or have your nozzle further away from the tb, which probably won't make such a drastic difference, but it does increase your risk of pooling.

 

So basically what you're saying is that the CAI reduces the amount of power gained using nitrous. I don't see how that even makes sense. And even if it was true, you still fail since you're losing power you should be making.
See Baka's post.

 

Ok so here is the final setup I want to run then:

Dnotune HR NO2 kit w/bottle warmer (100 shot)
Dynotune Progressive switch
UTEC
Colder Plugs
Test Pipes (resonated)
Lean cut off switch (this is cheap insurance for the motor!)
Purge kit

Any opinions?

 

Drop the dynotune progressive switch and lean cut off switch for a microedge+. The microedge is a progressive controller, both a lean and rich cut off switch, can give you bottle contents, and is an af gauge, has n20 activation delay, and still cheaper than getting a separate lean cut off switch, progressive controller, and af gauge. Only thing you need is an n20 gauge, and a wideband if you don't have it already. Try to limit the amount of electronics you have, its a pain trying to get everything to play nice together and wire everything up. Don't forget a blow down tube.

 

That was actually one of my concerns. How are all these electronics going to work in harmony?? I'll check you the microedge. I have been looking at test pipes. I currently have a Nismo S-tune. I know I want resonated because the straight pipes will give rasp. I have been looking at the CNT resonated pipes, anybody know anything about these?

 

If you get test pipes, I am sure you are planning to get a wideband to read afr right? You can run the microedge to be stand alone from the utec. I don't have a utec, so I am not sure how it will connect or output signals to a nitrous controller.

As for the test pipes, any test pipe will give you some rasp, even resonated ones. I have megan racing v2 resonated test pipes and they still rasp a bit, but since my Z is not a dd, it doesn't bother me, lol.

 

I will have to find out if the UTEC can work with a nitrous controller. I'll keep you guys posted.

 

what did you end up going with, i was looking to doing a similar setup. with the utech, microedge, and dynotune system.

 

You'll have better results with uprev over the utec..