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VQ35HR 4.08 Gears and Nitrous!

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Old Nov 26, 2012 | 07:51 AM
  #21  
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ANYONE have any idea on the CEL after installing my window switch and tapping into the TPS and coilpack?
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Old Nov 26, 2012 | 08:53 AM
  #22  
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well in that case, 12.3 isnt rich for the stock tune. the factory fuel target map is about 11.5 up top. its pig rich for na. that said, the driver bank runs leaner from the factory (you can fix this with individual cylinder trim with uprev software). thus, those numbers actually sound right on the money for what you've got...
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Old Nov 26, 2012 | 03:29 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by xslangx
ANYONE have any idea on the CEL after installing my window switch and tapping into the TPS and coilpack?
How did you tap into them? From what i gathered the TPS is especially sensitive to voltage variances and if you cut and rewired, even a few strands of copper cut off could possibly cause a drop in voltage. Dont quote me, but the ones ive seen that were tapped without actually cutting any wire seemed pretty successful
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Old Nov 26, 2012 | 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by xslangx
ANYONE have any idea on the CEL after installing my window switch and tapping into the TPS and coilpack?
What code is it setting?
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Old Nov 27, 2012 | 03:25 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by EnviedGee35
How did you tap into them? From what i gathered the TPS is especially sensitive to voltage variances and if you cut and rewired, even a few strands of copper cut off could possibly cause a drop in voltage. Dont quote me, but the ones ive seen that were tapped without actually cutting any wire seemed pretty successful

TPS = Yellow wire on passenger side TB, I didnt cut and splice, just tapped into..


I will post a write up on my Nitrous build here soon as well. Not to sure what code its pulling, It usually was on my second start after a battery reset, but now I have gone 30 miles without any CEL..

We will see what happens..

ALSO not a fan of the Nitrous Express fuel line adapter, I am going to tap into the regulator crossover on the passenger side and call it a day.. also the Fuel line that came with the kit wasnt even CLOSE to reaching the FPR, stupid dumb short.
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Old Nov 27, 2012 | 04:00 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by xslangx
TPS = Yellow wire on passenger side TB, I didnt cut and splice, just tapped into..


I will post a write up on my Nitrous build here soon as well. Not to sure what code its pulling, It usually was on my second start after a battery reset, but now I have gone 30 miles without any CEL..

We will see what happens..

ALSO not a fan of the Nitrous Express fuel line adapter, I am going to tap into the regulator crossover on the passenger side and call it a day.. also the Fuel line that came with the kit wasnt even CLOSE to reaching the FPR, stupid dumb short.
I did just that for the fueling, I made a custom adapter that sits between the feed line and the rails, looks perfectly factory.
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Old Dec 7, 2012 | 06:43 AM
  #27  
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Default WOW!

Everything is hooked up except my bottle heater, took her for a few runs last night HOLY **** !!!! even at 700psi bottle pressure on 75 shot SHE RIPS!! I was giggling the whole time, AF/R is at 11.2 to 10.9 at redline, rich... Amazing

100% happy can't wait to see what it feels like with the bottle pressure at 1000!
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Old Dec 7, 2012 | 05:39 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by xslangx
Everything is hooked up except my bottle heater, took her for a few runs last night HOLY **** !!!! even at 700psi bottle pressure on 75 shot SHE RIPS!! I was giggling the whole time, AF/R is at 11.2 to 10.9 at redline, rich... Amazing

100% happy can't wait to see what it feels like with the bottle pressure at 1000!
Yeah it feels great the first couple times, but it gets to feel normal after a bit. You will get more out of it by fixing the a/f, target 11.8-12.0 on bottle for best results. Keep the bottle pressure at 950-1050 while tuning so you are accurate on your fueling, as running with lower pressure will also make the car "rich" from the reduced nitrous.
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Old Dec 8, 2012 | 09:00 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Italianjoe1
Yeah it feels great the first couple times, but it gets to feel normal after a bit. You will get more out of it by fixing the a/f, target 11.8-12.0 on bottle for best results. Keep the bottle pressure at 950-1050 while tuning so you are accurate on your fueling, as running with lower pressure will also make the car "rich" from the reduced nitrous.


Dude I used a whole 10 lb bottle in like 4 hours... I think I have a problem

Does this **** really go that quick?
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Old Dec 8, 2012 | 02:06 PM
  #30  
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Well a 75 shot, on average sprays about .7-.8 lbs per 12-15 secs. Depending on how long you spray for....it can go pretty quick haha
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Old Dec 8, 2012 | 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by xslangx
Dude I used a whole 10 lb bottle in like 4 hours... I think I have a problem

Does this **** really go that quick?
Yeah highway pulls eat it up pretty quick on the bigger shots. When we moved my dad's truck from a 50 to a 100 shot, he noticed how much less time he was getting out of the bottles, and he usually only uses it from a red light and stops before 100mph, so no really extended pulls. My cars, hitting it from 40-140 or so is a good bit longer than the 1/4 mile usage, and I probably get 7-8 solid pulls before it's hard to keep the pressure up, even with the bottle heater.
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Old Dec 8, 2012 | 04:43 PM
  #32  
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^ I think I got about 6 decent 1/4 mile runs before the pressure started dropping too fast.
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Old Dec 8, 2012 | 06:23 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Italianjoe1
Yeah highway pulls eat it up pretty quick on the bigger shots. When we moved my dad's truck from a 50 to a 100 shot, he noticed how much less time he was getting out of the bottles, and he usually only uses it from a red light and stops before 100mph, so no really extended pulls. My cars, hitting it from 40-140 or so is a good bit longer than the 1/4 mile usage, and I probably get 7-8 solid pulls before it's hard to keep the pressure up, even with the bottle heater.

I'm running at like 200 psi now hahah, no clouds of nitrous on the purge anymore

40$ gone.

Yea, plus my BRAND NEW nitrous express purge valve is slowly leaking from the output, So bummed. When I activate it it slams shut though, seems like the plunger isn't sealing properly....

PS Will post pics of my setup in a bit guys, been really busy sorry..

#thread.worthless.without.pics
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Old Dec 9, 2012 | 07:21 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Italianjoe1
Yeah it feels great the first couple times, but it gets to feel normal after a bit. You will get more out of it by fixing the a/f, target 11.8-12.0 on bottle for best results. Keep the bottle pressure at 950-1050 while tuning so you are accurate on your fueling, as running with lower pressure will also make the car "rich" from the reduced nitrous.


Yea not worth it under 600 psi I just run 10.00 AF/R on the EUGO...


I got one run with 1000 psi in and OH MY LORDIE, I have never smiled harder!
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Old Dec 11, 2012 | 07:27 PM
  #35  
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I got about 4 decent 1/4 mile runs on a 150hp shot before it started to drove quickly. To put it in perspective, I ran a 9.88 second 1/4, went and filled the bottle up and then ran a 9.67 1/4 mile in the Z.
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Old Dec 12, 2012 | 07:49 PM
  #36  
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Nano Kit maybe?
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Old Dec 13, 2012 | 01:10 AM
  #37  
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im using a 150 shot and a nano kit on mine and i still get about 4-5 good full quarter runs (and perhaps one half *** one) before im done. that means, playing around on the street like i usually do i can spray 10-12 times and im done. the nano works really well to get the most out of the bottle. they are dead on when they say that when your nano bottle pressure drops from 3000 to 1000 your nitrous bottle is empty. that last run i was talking about usually starts around 1250psi on my nano bottle and i dont expect much from it... u start getting nasty air pocket filled purges that you cant clear out (and thus the same in the lines when u spray) and poor performance at that point.
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Old Dec 13, 2012 | 09:41 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by juicinjake
im using a 150 shot and a nano kit on mine and i still get about 4-5 good full quarter runs (and perhaps one half *** one) before im done. that means, playing around on the street like i usually do i can spray 10-12 times and im done. the nano works really well to get the most out of the bottle. they are dead on when they say that when your nano bottle pressure drops from 3000 to 1000 your nitrous bottle is empty. that last run i was talking about usually starts around 1250psi on my nano bottle and i dont expect much from it... u start getting nasty air pocket filled purges that you cant clear out (and thus the same in the lines when u spray) and poor performance at that point.


+1...I notice this as well @ 1300psi on the NANO. I usually chill the NANO before refill and have the provider fill to 4600-4700psi cuz you lose 500psi when you open the bottle to hit the check valve on the 10lb bottle. @ 100whp shot I can get 8 solid runs @ 950-1000 bottle psi, run 9 & 10 generally start tapering off.
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Old Dec 13, 2012 | 10:09 AM
  #39  
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i was going to mention that but never did... i always fill my 3000psi system to 3500psi for the same reason. i take it you are using the 4500psi kit?
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Old Dec 13, 2012 | 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by juicinjake
i was going to mention that but never did... i always fill my 3000psi system to 3500psi for the same reason. i take it you are using the 4500psi kit?
Yep 4500 since my setup in on a roadster (small trunk space). (2) bottles side-2-side. To left I can fit a 12pack, to the right, a cheesecake....no room beyond that.
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