So this is what it feels like to have a nice car and have to wait for parts / installation? This is one of the worst feelings in the world

And a total n00b question here. So the lightweight flywheel has higher idling RPM's correct? Does this mean that I should be shifting at higher RPM's then? (I've been shifting between 2.5K - 3K for casual driving) So between 3-4k or the same as before?

 

A lightweight flywheel shouldn't need a higher RPM to idle.. it just may require one to idle smoothly. You're reducing the spinning mass of the engine.

As for shifting, you can shift at the same points, just keep in mind when re-applying the clutch, there may be a more significant rpm drop if you wern't rev matched perfectly, as there will be less rotating inertia.

I'm planning on hitting up sonic tonight with the Z. anyone else going?

 

with a built setup, would think you would need/want more flow than that.

 

And with a built set up why get the most shitty exhaust made for the z. You want a 3" exhaust not 2.5 like you have coming.

 

lol I would have sold my exhaust for cheap.

 

the real HKS runs like 2 1\8" piping... I think he would be fine with 2.5". I run 2.5" aps on my setup. My exhaust is shown to have no resistance up to 14 psi, and good to run 16 or so.

I don't think the piping diameter would be my main concern if it actually is 2.5". I know how much a build costs, why buy a replica when you are spending that kind of money? the extra 500 or so for the exhaust isn't going to break you and IMHO is a pretty critical component. Besides, the geniune HKS exhaust I heard in person, didn't really put a smile on my face.

 

Agreed on the HKS replica had it for a month and didn't do it for me. I think the lowest priced exhaust you can get that will give added flow and amplify the note is the DC sports full catback...or just get the Greddy SP muffler IMO, both great quality and good companys to work with.

 

Shane why such the slow time at DCTC?? Still getting used to the Z??

 

still an open diff, and I'm having problems with the right rear corner.
Something's up and it's causing the car to want to seriously step out any time load up the right rear.

Thoughts right now include toe slip, ride height issue, shot strut, and bad ball joint/bushing. I'm trying to slide into jeff's this week to try and diagnose it and have him properly corner weight the car instead of my tape measure ride height action.

I will point out that the time posted includes the two penalties.. so it's actually a 42 if I'd kept it off the damn cones. This car's wider than I think it is.

Were you running? I don't know if i saw you out there..

 

Briefly, spectating, needed to get out of the house and see some friends. I was checking out the time slips on the myautoevents web page.

 

Local 40th for sale http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hn...506073878.html

 

I'm open for suggestions...

Oil Pressure Sending Unit port cracked and broke away. I have a buddy who thinks he can weld it, but not 100% sure if we will be able to re-drill and tap it again. Is there any other place that can be drilled and tapped in the upper pan that can be utilized? In the photo theres a cap above the filter where the arrow is, anyone know if its usable for the pressure sensor and turbo oil feed? This is all thats left to get the car running (other than tune obviously).

 

That sux. Looks like it got over tightened you must read owners manual on these cars or its easy to strip or crack aluminium. I believe its only supposed to be torque to 5lbs. As far as a different spot im not sure I know a new upper oil pan costs 400 with 1200-1400 in labor.

 

Saw a red 370Z on my street today. Gave him a thumbsup which he returned. This while I was chasing down my dogs who decided to escape the prison that they live in. Ungrateful damn dogs.

 

Installed air in my buddies g.

 

ended up capping the broken port and used the oil temp sensor location to feed the turbo and oil pressure. No leaks so far. But I do have a overheating problem. Temp will climb to 2/3 when idling, fans kick on and tstat opens and no change, drive even a block and the temp is maxed out. Gonna try bleeding the system again.

 

 

Very nice man glad you got it worked out

 

this car is an absolute nightmare when it comes to the cooling system. the system is so poorly designed. the highest point is at the back of the engine and lacks a proper expansion tank. I fought issues with my setup for years until I installed a proper (though small) expansion tank and plumbed it to self bleed.

at the very, very least get a proper spill free funnel and follow the procedure in the service manual

if you have time:
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...win-turbo.html

 

I got it today. Bled the system again and all is well so far. My next issue is boost. Granted I havent really gotten into the throttle being untuned, but it doesnt feel like its building a lot of boost. My gauge reads up to 1 or 2 lbs maybe, but I think the gauge is off because it starts building boost below the zero mark, but it still doesnt feel like its building much but it could just be the tune. It runs awesome just putsing around the neighborhood and ran great on the highway at 70 when I tried it today. Now to get a cable, license, and GT MAF and get tuned!