Just got finished reading a thread about someone who blew their motor because there was air in the coolant system. so pretty much if your f/i purge your motors! plans for when i get back include:

retorque heads
change oil to synthetic
PURGE COOLANT SYSTEM EVERY 3 WEEKS

 

+1 good call

 

Good idea, but you don't run synthetic oil? ever since I had my first oil change back in 2003 its been Mobil 1. Thanks for the tip.

 

well i had my dad change it to synthetic not sure if i did. but im still in the break in period anyway though. its suggested to break in motors on regular oil. then change to synthetic. im pretty sure i told my dad @ 1000 miles. this is how i went with break in

0-250: Regular Oil on First Change
250-500: Regular Oil on Second Change
500-1000: Synthetic on Third Change

we should do like a engine purge day. lmk if you guys want to do it. another sorry excuse for a get together.

 

there is a good writeup in the FI forum about the best oils for FI. Mobil1 is one of them but only the 0W-40. The other mobil1 s did not hold up good at all.

 

The Tourquing the heads is gonna be a REAL pain. This isnt like a honda or chevy. You have to remove the front timing cover, chain, gears, rear timing cover, The upper and lower intake plenum, all the charge piping, and pull the cam shafts to get to the head studs to torque them. If you do it your self expect 12 hours or so. Hell even for a shop that knows what they are doing often do it in 10.

God forbid you have an upgraded radiator. The cams wont clear it and you have to pull the radiator as well.

I would ask Todd what the engine was clearenced for if I was you. I run ENOS 0-W50 in my car. It gives better heat protection for traffic and over all a little more durable then standards weights. Just runing "Synthetic" on a normal car is one thing, if your engine is clearenced for specific performance too thin or too thick is a BIG no no.

Once there is no air in the system you realy dont need to purge it. The big reason you would get extra air in the system is if you have a coolant leak some where. Once topped off, and purged correctly; there should be no reason to purge between changes. If your that concerned about it, there are purge tank that purge continiously that way 0% of the collant has ANY air bubbles in it.


Just a lil something to think about.

 

just from memory do you really need to take out the cams to retorque the heads? i dont really remember but i thought you dont need to take off the cams to do it. to retorque them then its pretty much a pull the motor kind of job then

in regaurds to the clearances i had a shop locally do the machine work so im not sure but i recall him saying they used CP's suggested clearances. so i guess ill check on that.

 

Page EM-80 shows the head stud locations and they are DIRECTLY under the cam on the intake and exhaust sides. This requires the removal of the cams to get to these. I've looked into this in the past and its a pain to do later on. The best thing to have done (hind site) would have been to leave the stock cams in the car after your engine build. Break in your engine and put a couple thousand miles on the car. When you re-tourque the head studs put in the new cams and shims. But again thats hind sight. Now you just get to pull the good cams to just shove them right back in after the studs are tourqued.

 

damn well thats a pain in the ***. i was actually planning on stock cams but now with this i might just wait on the tune and just save up for cams. because when we torqued down the heads we used the factory suggested torque specs not the ARP suggested specs. so kind of messed up there. so i guess the car wont be ready for some real power until the end of the summer. damn that sucks =/

 

yeah sorry to hear that. Did you get the L19's or the 1/2" studs with tyme-certs? The 1/2" you can actualy get ALOT more tourque on because you have a greater surface area on the thread to hold mor pressure with out stripping it out.

Yeah definately wouldnt recommend putting alot of power to the car with the stock tourque. Not that its wrong or bad, but you would be more susceptable to head lift at higher power.

EDIT: Sorry man, didnt mean to throw you off your game. I just wanted to make sure you knew what you were getting into.

 

i went with the L19s. less things to go wrong. but i guess ill have to wait on making power. retorquing the heads is going to be a big job. getting cams is going to be a lot of money dammit i hate waiting and spending money that i dont have. guess its time to sell drugs..

edit: just looked over the service manual and said to myself... dammit great...

woo hoo gotta take apart the damn car again! father is deffinetly not going to be happy because i dont want to do it at kamus shop and take up space again. bye bye garage space!

 

DAMN... re-torquing the heads sounds like teh suck.

 

after really thinking about this. i came to a few realizations.

1. My car really isnt ready for the power levels i was hoping for.
2. The car needs to been driven on the daily and i cant have it breaking down.

So heres the plan
In light of this when i go back im going to only shoot for max power on my 440cc injectors. Save up to get my cooling system ready for the power considering the cooling is ALL STOCK. Eventually save up for a haltech and sell the utec. and take care of the suspension and things first before shooting for power. i think i rushed into things so im just going to take it slow now.

 

yeah its REALY easy to get carried away when you get into FI. He'll look at Silk, the bug has struck. He was talking about sticking with the 4lb pulley with no problems. NOW he's feining for the 9lb one.

Silk... If your reading this, dont walk it up man go straight to the 12 and dont look back.

As for you... I will give you a little advice that pretty much stays consistant. Make a list and detail where you want your car to be when its done. Price out every thing and go into detail. Ask arround and figure parts and labor for the stuff your not doing your self. When the list is done break it down into small stages you kow you can afford.

Sticking to that list will prevent the overwhelming fealings of "I want all this finished!!!" This way there is small bites you are taking and still feal a sence of accomplishment.