Injected Performance brings you HALTECH PLATINUM PNP STANDALONE
#741
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BUG REPORT: you can no longer enter a temperature under 32 deg F for the air temperature sensor calibration. I will post this into the Haltech forum also. (The FCON air temp sensor has a calibration nearly identical to the stock sensor and it is a 1/8" NPT for those looking for a smaller alternative to the Haltech one).
Last edited by rcdash; 01-31-2010 at 12:33 PM.
#743
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captj3, boost vs speed has worked for as long as I can remember for 350Zs. G35s did previously, then the speed channels were missed in an update, and now they are in there again.
rcdash, email sent to Haltech staff regarding 32degF minimum. Good catch. Also, thanks for confirming your output works as well.
rcdash, email sent to Haltech staff regarding 32degF minimum. Good catch. Also, thanks for confirming your output works as well.
#746
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Anyone running the Haltec AIT sensor and a Cosworth Plenum?
Wanted to know if you had to tap it or do any of the openings in the rear of the Cosworth plenum support the size of the AIT sensor
Wanted to know if you had to tap it or do any of the openings in the rear of the Cosworth plenum support the size of the AIT sensor
#747
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I believe we used the small size sensor Haltech offers, threaded right into the front of the plenum (passenger side, front has a threaded provision - pics are on our blog)
#748
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What? Haltech offers a small AIT sensor? No way! Grrr... Why would they sell that clunky 3/8" one if they have a 1/8" npt available?
I had to purchase a FCON one, which works fine by the way... I searched the Internet for hours and it's the only readily available 1/8" npt sensor - and the calibration curve is almost identical to the stock MAF AIT sensor.
I had to purchase a FCON one, which works fine by the way... I searched the Internet for hours and it's the only readily available 1/8" npt sensor - and the calibration curve is almost identical to the stock MAF AIT sensor.
Last edited by rcdash; 02-15-2010 at 09:04 AM.
#749
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Glex, from memory... I believe the Cosworth has 1/8 and 1/4 npt openings. Haltech offers two air temp sensors, large (3/8npt) and small (14x1.5 thread), so neither of them will thread straight in. http://www.haltechparts.com/SearchRe...rch=ait+sensor
RCDash, Haltech does not offer 1/8npt, I wish they did. HKS does as you are aware, and this may be a good solution for you glex.
RCDash, Haltech does not offer 1/8npt, I wish they did. HKS does as you are aware, and this may be a good solution for you glex.
Last edited by Dynosty; 02-15-2010 at 06:45 AM.
#750
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My thoughts on this sensor:
1. Expensive (twice Haltech, and a bit more $$$ for the required "mount")
2. Requires 1/8” NPT “mount”, which the sensor, which is even smaller, screws into. It has a probe that extends pretty far in though, which is nice – puts itself in the way of airflow.
3. It appears to be all metal. I don’t like this - heat in the plenum and engine bay may affect readings? I used lots of thread sealant between the mount and the plenum and between the sensor and the mount to try to insulate it a bit more. I also used shrink tubing around the outside portion to provide some heat insulation.
4. Despite the heat concern issues, it seems to respond quickly to temperature changes in the probe tip (holding sensor base in finger tips did not change resistance much, but blowing on tip had immediate impact as registered by multimeter).
5. Only available through HKS pro dealer (what is with HKS and all their security? Blah!)
1. Expensive (twice Haltech, and a bit more $$$ for the required "mount")
2. Requires 1/8” NPT “mount”, which the sensor, which is even smaller, screws into. It has a probe that extends pretty far in though, which is nice – puts itself in the way of airflow.
3. It appears to be all metal. I don’t like this - heat in the plenum and engine bay may affect readings? I used lots of thread sealant between the mount and the plenum and between the sensor and the mount to try to insulate it a bit more. I also used shrink tubing around the outside portion to provide some heat insulation.
4. Despite the heat concern issues, it seems to respond quickly to temperature changes in the probe tip (holding sensor base in finger tips did not change resistance much, but blowing on tip had immediate impact as registered by multimeter).
5. Only available through HKS pro dealer (what is with HKS and all their security? Blah!)
Last edited by rcdash; 02-15-2010 at 10:17 AM.
#751
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My thoughts on this sensor:
1. Expensive (twice Haltech, and a bit more $$$ for the required "mount")
2. Requires 1/8” NPT “mount”, which the sensor, which is even smaller, screws into. It has a probe that extends pretty far in though, which is nice – puts itself in the way of airflow.
3. It appears to be all metal. I don’t like this - heat in the plenum and engine bay may affect readings? I used lots of thread sealant between the mount and the plenum and between the sensor and the mount to try to insulate it a bit more. I also used shrink tubing around the outside portion to provide some heat insulation.
4. Despite the heat concern issues, it seems to respond quickly to temperature changes in the probe tip (holding sensor base in finger tips did not change resistance much, but blowing on tip had immediate impact as registered by multimeter).
5. Only available through HKS pro dealer (what is with HKS and all their security? Blah!)
1. Expensive (twice Haltech, and a bit more $$$ for the required "mount")
2. Requires 1/8” NPT “mount”, which the sensor, which is even smaller, screws into. It has a probe that extends pretty far in though, which is nice – puts itself in the way of airflow.
3. It appears to be all metal. I don’t like this - heat in the plenum and engine bay may affect readings? I used lots of thread sealant between the mount and the plenum and between the sensor and the mount to try to insulate it a bit more. I also used shrink tubing around the outside portion to provide some heat insulation.
4. Despite the heat concern issues, it seems to respond quickly to temperature changes in the probe tip (holding sensor base in finger tips did not change resistance much, but blowing on tip had immediate impact as registered by multimeter).
5. Only available through HKS pro dealer (what is with HKS and all their security? Blah!)
Every time I look into doing something different for this car it seems I need to do 3 other mods just to support the first one
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#754
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So does the Haltech only work with VQ35 setups or does it function with older VQ30 engines as well? The crank and cam signals are different on VQ30s but they are simpler signals than the VQ35 engines have.
Also can you raise the rev limiter with this system? I'm assuming you can if you can write the proper ignition and fuel maps past the factory rev limit fuel cut.
This looks like a better option for what I want for my engine tuning needs.
Also can you raise the rev limiter with this system? I'm assuming you can if you can write the proper ignition and fuel maps past the factory rev limit fuel cut.
This looks like a better option for what I want for my engine tuning needs.
#755
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So does the Haltech only work with VQ35 setups or does it function with older VQ30 engines as well? The crank and cam signals are different on VQ30s but they are simpler signals than the VQ35 engines have.
Also can you raise the rev limiter with this system? I'm assuming you can if you can write the proper ignition and fuel maps past the factory rev limit fuel cut.
This looks like a better option for what I want for my engine tuning needs.
Also can you raise the rev limiter with this system? I'm assuming you can if you can write the proper ignition and fuel maps past the factory rev limit fuel cut.
This looks like a better option for what I want for my engine tuning needs.
The Haltech 350Z ems has a user adjustable rev limiter and will go as high as you like - but, 04.5+ 350Z's close the throttle plate at stock redline and require a reflash to rev higher.
#757
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1. We (Injected Perf) have a plug & play harness available at an additional cost.
2. Wire into your oem harness. If purchased from us, we will provide a base map and wiring instructions.
#758
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ok great. I'm doing a HR swap into a DE car & I will initially attempt to run the engine on the HR ecu. if all can communication issues can be resolved & I can get it to all play nicely then I'll be looking for the HR harness, if not I will fall back on running it off the DE ecu & winding up rewiring it all up anyway, was just curious as to what my options were there, & yeah, the haltech at least is def coming from you
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#759
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so just testing the Haltech before my startup and I have a couple questions.
IS analog voltage input 6 and 8, the actual voltages read by the Haltech for the widebands?
If so, they do not match the voltages read by my mulitmeter. The haltech says they are 4.4x while my Fluke says its a solid 4.54
Granted the car is off, but if teh Haltech is seeing that much less voltage, thats going to greatly effect my AEM wideband curve.
Also, if i just put the car to ACC and not ON, my meth pump comes on. That means that the haltech must be grounding the line out. Once I put the car to ON, the meth pump turns off.
Ever see that before?
IS analog voltage input 6 and 8, the actual voltages read by the Haltech for the widebands?
If so, they do not match the voltages read by my mulitmeter. The haltech says they are 4.4x while my Fluke says its a solid 4.54
Granted the car is off, but if teh Haltech is seeing that much less voltage, thats going to greatly effect my AEM wideband curve.
Also, if i just put the car to ACC and not ON, my meth pump comes on. That means that the haltech must be grounding the line out. Once I put the car to ON, the meth pump turns off.
Ever see that before?
#760
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str8dum1 not sure if it is related but could the difference in voltage be realated to not having a ground reference? Have a look at this for info which explains what i'm trying to get at.
http://wbo2.com/sw/wblinout.htm
http://wbo2.com/sw/wblinout.htm