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A CJM Twin Fuel Pump

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Old Jul 28, 2008 | 02:41 PM
  #101  
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Originally Posted by phunk
that would work out great... then you could put an external fuel filter somewhere along the path also with a lot more room to play with.

the Y fitting that splits the line to the rails is -8/-6/-6... so your -8 line would connect right up... and thats the best way to do it rather then an individual -6 to each rail.

good idea

yeah, I wouldnt do that....I actually have a 100 micron inline -8 and a 40 mic. -8...never used em...which one would you recommend for this setup?
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Old Aug 2, 2008 | 10:46 AM
  #102  
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omg i wantz. price?
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Old Aug 5, 2008 | 03:44 PM
  #103  
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If I were to order one right now when would I expect to have it?
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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 10:10 AM
  #104  
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Hey CJM, how about including installation instructions with a suggested wiring diagram and fuel line sizes and lengths. This would help take some of the guess work out this process.
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Old Aug 11, 2008 | 08:23 PM
  #105  
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I may give some more suggestions in the page on the site about it when I get around to putting one of these in my car... but its pretty straight forward anyway.

Most at home mechanics could easily do it and any shop should find it to be essentially basic.

As soon as we get our website functioning again (CJM is becoming a full time manufacturing business now and moving to another server with its new parent corporation) I will try and get at least a pinout of the stock plug so people know which wire is which when they cut it off if they dont have the service manual themselves. Fuel line sizing is easy... -6 are the outputs so -6 it is! You can run it to a Y and do a larger (-8/-10) single hose to the bay or you can run the twin -6. Return line is -6 also. Thats actually covered in the tech page on the site that is currently down.
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Old Feb 1, 2009 | 04:23 PM
  #106  
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Has the price came down any?
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Old Feb 1, 2009 | 06:09 PM
  #107  
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Negative, it's actually gone up by $15!
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Old Feb 1, 2009 | 07:30 PM
  #108  
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damn
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Old Feb 1, 2009 | 07:55 PM
  #109  
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Ya unfortunately cost has gone up on some of the components... we went up by half of what the cost went up. With all the changes we are making for 2009 we are going to be spending more time on new products so unless a big motivating factor drives us to start utilizing our plastic injection molding capabilities on it (brandon is a mold engineer), we don't have any other way to bring costs and time down on it. With no direct competition on this type of assembly, we would rather bring you guys more product options before focusing on driving down the cost of a product that isn't exactly a common part.. We have only sold about 35-40 twin pumps. But if demand changes or the market becomes more competitive, there are definately options if we need them.
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Old Mar 25, 2009 | 09:53 PM
  #110  
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To whom it may concern, I have trouble getting my Z to start (cold starts,hot starts). while we were tuning the Z I noticed how much pressure bleeds back through the CJ fuel pumps. after 15mins the pump pressure is down from 56 psi to 30 psi. So I rigged up a micro switch with a 3amp diode to the trigger wire on the fuel pumps. Now when i go to start the Z I hold the micro switch down for 3 seconds when I turn the ignition switch on the fuel pressure is up to 56 psi and I played with the Haltech starting parameters till the engine starts after a couple of cranking cycles. I haven't finished working on the hot starts parameters but my Z cold starts faster now than when it was completely stock.

Last edited by BrazenZ; Mar 25, 2009 at 09:55 PM.
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Old Mar 25, 2009 | 11:12 PM
  #111  
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holding fuel pressure after the car is shut off is not exactly a duty of our product. that function is assigned to the fuel pressure regulator and the walbro pumps internal checkvalve... our product simply houses the walbro pumps while performing the required siphoning duties needed for this car.

when the car is shut off, the only things that can hold the pressure, assuming you have no leaks, is the check valve in the walbro pump itself, and the fuel pressure regulator. unfortunately both of these devices are outside our control. you could try eliminating the walbros as the culprit by adding inline check valves to your plumbing... however im pretty confident that you will find that its your regulator causing the pressure drop. i am not sure how many aftermarket regulators i have seen hold full pressure once the pumps are off, but not many.. if any at all. if could also be a leaky injector, but thats pretty rare in my experience. i am not sure what make/model injectors you have, but that can also contribute.

some more fine tuning of your haltech calibration should be able to solve your problem... my car, which experiences the same pressure drop, fires up immediately like stock with the FCON calibration and denso injectors that have been in it since 2004.

Last edited by phunk; Mar 25, 2009 at 11:34 PM.
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Old Mar 26, 2009 | 06:26 PM
  #112  
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I have the twin pump setup and a Haltech and honestly mine starts even easier and faster now than ever before. I'm not even sure it makes 3 full revolutions before starting...LOL.

Bump for fantastic products.
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Old Mar 26, 2009 | 09:00 PM
  #113  
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anyone have any pics of how they plumbed it?
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