chrisnathan

iTrader: (55)

Guys,

I need help. I can start up my engine but the RPM just stays at 1.5k even I press the accel. pedal all the way to the floor. Anyone knows what's going on?

Oh and also, all the lights are on, SES, VDC and SLIP, damn, wtf happened? I tried to search but couldn't find any answer to this.

Help please!!

cdoxp800

iTrader: (12)

Reset the ECU



ECU Resetting Procedures
Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON.
A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.
Operations Procedures
1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.
If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.

Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning
Operation Procedure
1. Make sure that the accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning
Operation Procedures

1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch is “ON”.
3. Turn ignition switch is “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that the throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.

Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)
It is better to count the time accurately with a clock.
Operation Procedures

1. Perform “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning”.
2. Perform “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning”.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
5. Conform that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
6. Repeat the following (steps 7a, 7b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD)
7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.

chrisnathan

iTrader: (55)

^^ I did try those, it worked the first time but they are all coming back. Here is what it looks like, I found it on the similar post.

aDDandrew

iTrader: (3)

take it to the dealer?

chrisnathan

iTrader: (55)

^^ That would be my last resort. I tried cleaning the MAF and TB, still doing the same thing. It is still starting up great, but just can't rev it up. Anyone?

M6SXTZ

iTrader: (4)

I HAD THE SAME ISSUE!

its called limp mode... take it to a shop, tell them to clean the relay. (not sure which one but just check and clean them all!) other things i have done as a temp fix, pull the neg battery cable and press on the brake like 50 times, replace the battery cable and start the car. for me it was the relay! after that was cleaned i have NEVER had the issue again. i was struggling with this for like 3 months before i just took it into some hole in the wall shop called JESUS AUTO MECHANIC SHOP and Jesus fixed my car! (no really, he did! praise the lord!) ...

FYi. i have spent $HUNDREDS$ of dollars with NISSAN SERVICE DEPT trying to locate the issue and not one of their mechanics could pin point it. and when i brought it to jesus he solved the issue in about 20 mins and didnt even charge me for the work he did!

let me know if you want his # (its not 1-800-CAL-LGOD)


you know what, just call me, i can explain it a little more in detail if you wish. pm'd my #

cdoxp800

iTrader: (12)

Well with that being said. You need to see what codes you are throwing. Do you know anyone With Cipher?

M6SXTZ

iTrader: (4)

glad to talk to you bro, hope it helped.
here is the shop info, just google map it!
this guy is amazing and comes highly recommended when it comes to limp mode!

Jesus Auto Repair
(310) 640-6121
13111 Inglewood Ave, Hawthorne, CA

Cannysage

iTrader: (29)

you have turbo? exact same thing happened to me when water got around the ecu unit.

chrisnathan

iTrader: (55)

^^ Nah, I'm stock, w/ only some light mods. Thanks for the response though guys. Still figuring out and couldn't find the answer out there.

xtremefairladyz

iTrader: (5)

Most likely the ECU is preventing the rpm from going too high because something is wrong. So the rpm is techically not your problem, there must be something else that the ECU detects and tries to prevent any damage to the engine by keeping the rpm low. This might help you out.

http://www.350zmotoring.com/forums/3...ight-sesl.html

This person seems to have the same problem you had. Hope this helps!

chrisnathan

iTrader: (55)

^^ After so much reading, there is no exact answer to this. Thank you for your responses. I cleaned the MAF and throttle body and worked like magic last night. But this morning when I was about to go to work, it acting up again. Gosh, I might try the fuel injector thing later when I get home, but that might be my last resort before I take it to the stealership.

Any expert advice? Anyone experienced this before? HELP!! PLEASE....

chrisnathan

iTrader: (55)

Where is our ECU located, and also do you guys happen to know where our relays are? M6SXTZ mentioned that the guy fixed his problem by cleaning the relays.

350ZNME

iTrader: (1)

Make sure you didnt put the MAF sensor on backwards, I did this once and had similar problems and all the same lights came on.

IP Gthreefive

iTrader: (15)

check your brake fluid...

Jintei

iTrader: (6)

Problem solved. We cleaned the MAF, reset the ECU, CHANGED THE SPARK PLUGS (all of them are heavily covered with oil), cleaned the TB, and tighten the valve cover and plenum bolts.

The plenum bolts are surprisingly loose eventhough they have been tighten well before. Can anyone tell me what might cause them to become loose? According to chris, he even put some thread locker when he first installed it.

M6SXTZ

iTrader: (4)

415mm

iTrader: (103)

Good to hear the cars running well now bro. whens the next Irvine meet?

350Z_GTS

iTrader: (1)

good to hear. Mine went into limp mode like 20 miles after i had the new engine installed. couldnt take it back cause 3 miles after new engine was in, put the kit and every thing else on. Just reset ecu and was fine. but good to know other things to look for in case it happens again.

chrisnathan

iTrader: (55)

Update:
Replaced the spark plugs with NGK Iridium, cleaned the MAF and TB (Again!), checked all bolts and nuts and found the plenum spacer's bolts somewhat are loose, disconnected the battery while doing all those. Put all those parts together, works!! No SES, VDC or SLIP lights on, thank God!!

So I'm guessing loose bolts of the plenum spacer caused the real problem (knock on wood). Well, thanks for everyone quick response and input. Let me know if you guys have any similar problem, I might be able to help.