[DFW]: Got a Z with some limp mode issues where is a good shop around dfw
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Got a Z with some limp mode issues where is a good shop around dfw
I have my car at a shop now and they have had it a week with no clue of whats up. I really need my car fixed its my only ride, I have found out that not everyone is savy when it comes to 350z's. Im in mesquite, where is a good shop around here that knows these cars inside and out
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Yea p0550, p2122, p2138, p1229 Those are the main 4 it also has a evap code but thats the least of my worries right now lol. This is a 2003 6 speed touring. I can make it to work fine in the morning about a 5 mile drive. On my way home it normally messes up and hits limp as i exit the off ramp and come to the light. I have been as far as a 12 mile staright shot as long as im on the highway it is fine but as soon as i start to stop and go it will go into limp mode. i have a brand new pedal and sensor assembly on it. i have tried 2 throttle bodys. The kicker is it seems to do it when its hot or at operating temp. I can check volts when its cold at the pedal sensor and its around 5 volts as its suppose to be. Once its hot and in limp mode the volts drop to around 1 volt. Im sure this is the cause, but what is getting hot and causing me to loose power supply? The car also has a evap code but i dont think that is the cause for limp mode, i will tackle that later on. I have to limp the car home from work when i exit as i stated but after it sets a few hours its ok for a few miles around the block. Once its hot the codes come right back as soon as i reset them and start the car. i have done all the relearns as well. I have a friend at nissan but he has not helped much besides giving me the trouble shoot tips.
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No the guy wants me to buy a evap sensor first and i told him that is most likely not the cause of the limp mode i wanna spend my money on fixing that first and worry about the rest later. i myself work on cars for a living as well and i bought this car with hopes of a easy fix, but in all honesty when i get off work i really dont feal like messing with this thing. I tried for 3 days and just decided to let another guy try who is normally a good tech, but this is not a car for him i see lol. I have downloaded all the trouble shoot and dtc diag procedures for each code and removed all the panels, covers, and such where all the wires, ecm, and ect... can be reached. He has all the info in his hands. I also lack a good scanner and my work will not let me work on my car there or use there scanner. When i bought the car the guy had a bring new pedal so i put that on there. He also had an extra throttle body and ecm. Car works fine untill it is at operating temp. I haved discovered that i was not doing the relearns correct because the car has to be at operating temp and i was dooing them while the car was cold. I just want a good shop or person that can knock this out and i hand him cash lol. I believe this is a issue where u have to have seen the problem before or really knnow these cars well and how they function in order to know what to look for and try.
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Im going to get the car tomorrow and im gonna try what i have learned the last few days ie. unplug battery all night and leave head lights on to fully reset ecm, and i read to pull the vdc fuse and try that. Also im gonna pull the harness and check all the wiring and clean all connectors, if no success then ill still be hunting a shop or individual.
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I would try Steve Kan in Lewisville or PRT Performance
He tuned a lot of the Z's & G's around DFW with the Osiris UpRev software.
PRT Performance/ Kantuning
1421 N. Cowan Ave
Lewisville, Texas
(817) 823-7892
He tuned a lot of the Z's & G's around DFW with the Osiris UpRev software.
PRT Performance/ Kantuning
1421 N. Cowan Ave
Lewisville, Texas
(817) 823-7892
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