Best way to tune fuel with bolt-ons?
02-25-2007, 10:38 AM
#1
Best way to tune fuel with bolt-ons?
I'm just going for bolt-ons and decent #s on my car. I put down 257HP and 235TQ yesterday, but my AFR was all over the place. I was lean until around 5500 and then the car went rich. I need to level it out so that this thing picks up more power. What would my best option be?
I've read that the SAFCs will not work with the VQ.
I'm thinking about sending a copy of my dyno sheets in with my computer and having a reflash done. Would that be enough to adjust my AFRs?
I just don't think I can justify the price of something like a UTEC for what I'm going for.
I've read that the SAFCs will not work with the VQ.
I'm thinking about sending a copy of my dyno sheets in with my computer and having a reflash done. Would that be enough to adjust my AFRs?
I just don't think I can justify the price of something like a UTEC for what I'm going for.
02-25-2007, 04:03 PM
#6
Originally Posted by Abishop
Damn, we have about the same mods and your killing my HP and TQ. Nice pulls. Also go with UTEC.
I'm really not sure what to do. I want more bolt-ons but I don't want the car getting leaner. I doubt the MREV2 and pulleys would really make a difference. I know the pulleys won't. I may just go ahead and finish bolt-ons and then decide what to do about the fuel. I know I could be making more power with the fuel tuned, and that really kills me. I don't know if there are any UTEC tuners near me.
02-25-2007, 04:22 PM
#7
Originally Posted by Abishop
Damn, we have about the same mods and your killing my HP and TQ. Nice pulls. Also go with UTEC.
Originally Posted by Steve-O Z33
Looking at your location, elevation probably makes the difference.
I'm really not sure what to do. I want more bolt-ons but I don't want the car getting leaner. I doubt the MREV2 and pulleys would really make a difference. I know the pulleys won't. I may just go ahead and finish bolt-ons and then decide what to do about the fuel. I know I could be making more power with the fuel tuned, and that really kills me. I don't know if there are any UTEC tuners near me.
I'm really not sure what to do. I want more bolt-ons but I don't want the car getting leaner. I doubt the MREV2 and pulleys would really make a difference. I know the pulleys won't. I may just go ahead and finish bolt-ons and then decide what to do about the fuel. I know I could be making more power with the fuel tuned, and that really kills me. I don't know if there are any UTEC tuners near me.
This is what I just posted about the UTEC in another tread:
Originally Posted by Robert_K
As far as the UTEC, it more than just added power. Speaking for myself after my mods my motor was running dangerously lean. Please take into consideration though I'm at 5k+ feet elevation. However it is alway good to tune to have a safe running motor. That is the number one reason I purchased my UTEC. The plus to tuning to have a safe motor is freeing up hidden HP. Now my peak numbers didn't go up at much as I wanted but my mid-range went up between 5-10whp/wtq! Plus with owning the VQ35DE I raised the rev limit to 7k vs the 6800 stock. I'm sure once I get a full cat-back my peak number will go up. All-in-all... YES! The UTEC purchase & tune is worth the cost. 
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02-25-2007, 05:10 PM
#8
Originally Posted by Robert_K
Andrew consider that every dyno reads & is set different. Even same makes are different. You had great numbers!!! Don't get down on yourself when you see other dyno sheets.
02-25-2007, 05:12 PM
#9
Originally Posted by Steve-O Z33
Looking at your location, elevation probably makes the difference.
I'm really not sure what to do. I want more bolt-ons but I don't want the car getting leaner. I doubt the MREV2 and pulleys would really make a difference. I know the pulleys won't. I may just go ahead and finish bolt-ons and then decide what to do about the fuel. I know I could be making more power with the fuel tuned, and that really kills me. I don't know if there are any UTEC tuners near me.
I'm really not sure what to do. I want more bolt-ons but I don't want the car getting leaner. I doubt the MREV2 and pulleys would really make a difference. I know the pulleys won't. I may just go ahead and finish bolt-ons and then decide what to do about the fuel. I know I could be making more power with the fuel tuned, and that really kills me. I don't know if there are any UTEC tuners near me.
02-25-2007, 05:20 PM
#11
Originally Posted by stereoneeds
if im on a budget, definately staying na, and just wanting to control my a/f ratio, will the greddy emanage blue do the job?
02-26-2007, 10:47 AM
#12
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OBD2 expects a MAF variation in voltage to correct for barometric changes 3% per 1,000 feet, the integrated thermistors tracks IAT 1% per 11F.
The G must work in Denver and over the mountains so a suitable MAF voltage could be <20% below sealevel reading, however it won't be 100F in the mountains.
I don't see why a device that mods MAF voltage downward would not work if you keep it within reasonable bounds and only modified after 4,000 rpms.
Remember the voltage is an exponential curve so around 4.4 volts even a 0.1-0.2 volts is significant.
Use OBD2 scanner to graph your MAF voltage rpm vs WOT voltage.
Unlikely that leaning the MAF voltage [A/F ratio] will gain you much 3,4,5% remember the builtin excessive richness is to cool the combustion chambers in more than 7 sec WOT [typical emergency pass] so dyno tuning may get you in trouble [Knock] in Summer where grades and WOT might exceed 10 secs.
The dyno allows the engine to accelerate faster than real world and no wind resistance...............dyno timing may be too much for quarter miles or extended operation.
The G must work in Denver and over the mountains so a suitable MAF voltage could be <20% below sealevel reading, however it won't be 100F in the mountains.
I don't see why a device that mods MAF voltage downward would not work if you keep it within reasonable bounds and only modified after 4,000 rpms.
Remember the voltage is an exponential curve so around 4.4 volts even a 0.1-0.2 volts is significant.
Use OBD2 scanner to graph your MAF voltage rpm vs WOT voltage.
Unlikely that leaning the MAF voltage [A/F ratio] will gain you much 3,4,5% remember the builtin excessive richness is to cool the combustion chambers in more than 7 sec WOT [typical emergency pass] so dyno tuning may get you in trouble [Knock] in Summer where grades and WOT might exceed 10 secs.
The dyno allows the engine to accelerate faster than real world and no wind resistance...............dyno timing may be too much for quarter miles or extended operation.
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