I'm just going for bolt-ons and decent #s on my car. I put down 257HP and 235TQ yesterday, but my AFR was all over the place. I was lean until around 5500 and then the car went rich. I need to level it out so that this thing picks up more power. What would my best option be?
I've read that the SAFCs will not work with the VQ.
I'm thinking about sending a copy of my dyno sheets in with my computer and having a reflash done. Would that be enough to adjust my AFRs?
I just don't think I can justify the price of something like a UTEC for what I'm going for.

 

The UTEC is the best route though. You can find them for around $850 shipped new. I highly suggest it. I have one and love it with my bolt-on. Plus the 7k rev limit is a plus. Can't wait to get my cat-back and gain even more power with it.

 

I already have a rev-up. 7k is stock. Technosquare says 12.5:1 AFR all the way across the powerband. Is this true? If so, I'm sold.

 

+1 on a Utec. No need to send away for a reflash after new mods

 

Damn, we have about the same mods and your killing my HP and TQ. Nice pulls. Also go with UTEC.

 

Looking at your location, elevation probably makes the difference.

I'm really not sure what to do. I want more bolt-ons but I don't want the car getting leaner. I doubt the MREV2 and pulleys would really make a difference. I know the pulleys won't. I may just go ahead and finish bolt-ons and then decide what to do about the fuel. I know I could be making more power with the fuel tuned, and that really kills me. I don't know if there are any UTEC tuners near me.

 

Andrew consider that every dyno reads & is set different. Even same makes are different. You had great numbers!!! Don't get down on yourself when you see other dyno sheets.

Steve,

This is what I just posted about the UTEC in another tread: Hope this helps you.

 

ha ha, yea i guess they are all different. I noticed he had headers too, so thats different. But im happy with my numbers and very happy to improve on them. Thanks for the moral support Robert!

 

look on turboxs.com for auth dealers, there are dealers in just about every state. Those dealers usually tune also.

 

if im on a budget, definately staying na, and just wanting to control my a/f ratio, will the greddy emanage blue do the job?

 

I honestly don't know much about the eManage but I do know a lot of eManage owners sold it for the UTEC. I think ultimately you'll be happier with the UTEC.

 

OBD2 expects a MAF variation in voltage to correct for barometric changes 3% per 1,000 feet, the integrated thermistors tracks IAT 1% per 11F.

The G must work in Denver and over the mountains so a suitable MAF voltage could be <20% below sealevel reading, however it won't be 100F in the mountains.

I don't see why a device that mods MAF voltage downward would not work if you keep it within reasonable bounds and only modified after 4,000 rpms.

Remember the voltage is an exponential curve so around 4.4 volts even a 0.1-0.2 volts is significant.

Use OBD2 scanner to graph your MAF voltage rpm vs WOT voltage.

Unlikely that leaning the MAF voltage [A/F ratio] will gain you much 3,4,5% remember the builtin excessive richness is to cool the combustion chambers in more than 7 sec WOT [typical emergency pass] so dyno tuning may get you in trouble [Knock] in Summer where grades and WOT might exceed 10 secs.

The dyno allows the engine to accelerate faster than real world and no wind resistance...............dyno timing may be too much for quarter miles or extended operation.