Well, I got everything tuned great on my Haltech. Good AFR at boost, nice throttle response, good tip in response, good open loop boost (still working at getting the closed loop boost working), etc... Some of this was me, some of this was my tuner on a Dynapack.

However, I can't get a stable idle It will surge to 1100 rpms, and drop to 300, and then surge back up. Never dies, just drops really low. Sitting in my garage, with the ECU hooked to my computer, and watching the fuel map, I can see where it is surging, correct those cells, and get a stable idle, but then when I go out and drive, it will start doing the surge/drop at idle. My coolant tewmps are steady, both in the garage, and on the road, and I think I have a good curve on my coolant temp correction setting for the fuel. However, in the garage, the intake temps get higher, due to heat soak, and lack of a huge fan to blow cool air on the engine, so I think it might be due to the intake temp correction table. Anyone have suggestions on this?

Also, when I am doing the tuning in the garage, and get the stable idle, I have the O2 sensor/AFR correction disabled, so the ECU doesn't mess with that, and once I get a stable idle, I turn on the O2 correction, and make sure that the idle stays stable. The settings I use allow the ECU to adjust the fuel up to +/- 40% to get a 14.7 AFR at idle. Should I use that, should I use more, or should I use less?

 

PM or call Haltech/IP tuning..

 

i have nearly the same exact thing going with mine. just need some extra time to mess with it.

 

i have same problem when i have fcoon vpro because of this problem i changed my ecu via haltech shitt

 

It's not that the Haltech is bad, I just have to get the right settings, is all.

 

i know i am waiting tuner for my car we have already install it just waiting

 

Sitting in my garage, with the ECU hooked to my computer, and
Also, when I am doing the tuning in the garage, and get the stable idle, I have the O2 sensor/AFR correction disabled, so the ECU doesn't mess with that, and once I get a stable idle, I turn on the O2 correction, and make sure that the idle stays stable. The settings I use allow the ECU to adjust the fuel up to +/- 40% to get a 14.7 AFR at idle. Should I use that, should I use more, or should I use less?[/QUOTE]

Some cars at idle like to run rich some like to run lean .As long as your idle is smooth and stable I will not worry of 14.7 afr.If yours is rich and smooth try to lean the mixture a little bit to just before it surges.Thats the way i like to do in my cars ( less fuel smell)

 

Dave give me a ring, I have a few pointers for you to get that idle stable. Drive by wire cars are a little touchier and require the fuel map to be spot on or the stock ecu tries to start correcting with open/close commands and then you get it into the cycle. Nothing to worry about, we will get it straightened out

 

Thats good costumer service !!!!!!!

 

Dave.. Had a similar issue. My car has the factory narrowbands and no matter what we did we could not get stable idle or decent throttle snap from idle. We tuned the maps with no closed loop and the car ran fine at all points.

I recently got Haltech to re-jig my setup so that Closed Loop will work off my installed wideband and not the factory narrow bands and now runs stable during closed loop with solid A/F's

 

Yeah, Hal@IP has been great, really good at helping out and responding to questions.

As for the the AFR, the 2005 G35 has stock factory widebands. Yeah, they aren't great, and not comparable to the aftermarket ones you can get, but they should be able to hold a steady AFR at a steady idle, and not screwup the stock idle.

Edit: Anyways, made some progress last night; apparently my intake temp correction table was backwards; switched that around, and the idle is better; still surges, but not as much. Just working on getting it nice and buttery smooth.

 

I should of checked your sig..

 

Thanks for the feedback - good to hear. I believe my default intake temp correction table was backwards also and had to be corrected (originally was adding fuel when warmer, with less fuel when colder). Lots of settings on that thing!

 

No, mine was setup as richer when colder, and leaner when warmer (for intake air temp) I checked both the base map that is included with the software, and the base map that was made for my setup and they were both richer when warmer and leaner when colder. Counter-intuitve (to me), but it seems to work better now that I have changed it.

Also, Hal's advice to me (I'll let him post the entirety of it if he wants) is helping out a lot. Basically, you need to set more load values in the vacuum area where the idle sits at, so you can fine tune it better. Also make sure the surrounding cells are tuned correctly, and close to matching , because it draws on those values as well

 

EDIT: I think we're saying the same thing .

 

Dave, glad to hear that is helping.

The reason for more fuel for colder air temps, and less for hot air... is air density. Colder air is more dense, so it requires more fuel. I often setup the air-temp correction to not add/subtract as much fuel in the high vacuum areas to help stabilize idle.

 

Well, I just had a Eureka! Oh ****! moment...

Since I only have 440 cc injectors, not much larger than stock, and I don't have a return fuel system, what if I tried the "Copy Through" function for rpms 1000 or less and zero boost or less? The copy through function basically allows the stock ECU to run things, at those load points that you enter a "C" instead of an actual value.

Lo and behold, it worked! Perfectly stable idle, both with A/C on and with A/C off. Good throttle response (no lag), good AFR (about 14.5)

Why didn't I think of this before?!?!?!?!?!?!?



As for the air temp correction (not coolant temp, but air temp), I agree with your reasoing, Hal, but.... the base map included with the software, AND the base map that you made for me had the complete opposite. In other words, it added fuel at higher air temps, and diun't add fuel at low temps. Maybe I am misreading it, but I checked both of those base maps a couple of times.

I could think of a reason for more fuel at higher air temps; that reason being that adding a little extra fuel helps cool off the intake charge, and prevent detonation. Does that make sense, or am I just talking out of my non-tuning trained ***?

 

Oh, a note: the Copy Through probably won't work if you have drastically larger injectors.

 

I did want to mention that that is the beauty of the Haltech; very tunable, and very precise! Of course, you can get yourself in trouble, with that much power, as well.

The other great selling point is the excellent support provided.

 

glad to see the HalTech is working out for you Dave.