Did a quick timing log...please look!
yes and no.
i've had it switch to my high det map above 5k before on a log....that means it knew there was a knock event and switched to the high detonation map. so technically it does but everyone says it doesnt. Not sure how it works, all i know is i have personally had it switch to a high det map over 5k.
i've had it switch to my high det map above 5k before on a log....that means it knew there was a knock event and switched to the high detonation map. so technically it does but everyone says it doesnt. Not sure how it works, all i know is i have personally had it switch to a high det map over 5k.
yes and no.
i've had it switch to my high det map above 5k before on a log....that means it knew there was a knock event and switched to the high detonation map. so technically it does but everyone says it doesnt. Not sure how it works, all i know is i have personally had it switch to a high det map over 5k.
i've had it switch to my high det map above 5k before on a log....that means it knew there was a knock event and switched to the high detonation map. so technically it does but everyone says it doesnt. Not sure how it works, all i know is i have personally had it switch to a high det map over 5k.
The problem is that you may not detonate until high boost and high rpm. For example, you can be cruising on the freeway on a hot summer day and all of a sudden you had to downshift to 5000rpm because a 700whp Civic is gaining on you. Guess what, your ECU will no do anything. You can have a bad set of Gas and you maybe fine at vacuum or low boost but start knocking once you hit 5+ psi. This happen to me! I was fine at <4psi but once I get on it I start knocking. Once you downshift on a race you will not see <5000rpm until you finish the race so bye bye motor....
Last edited by athenG; May 11, 2010 at 06:29 AM.
Regarding your timing values -
FWIW on my stock block with HKS twin turbos @6-7 psi and the UTEC with 93 octane I was running around 18 degrees advance at torque peak (~4500 rpm) and 22 degrees at redline. A/F was usually high 11's. In all my logs, I never recorded any knock. This doesn't mean those numbers are safe or that I just wasn't detecting the knock, but it's just another data point. Granted I only ran this way for a couple of months last fall, and the ambient temps in my area during that time were always below 60F.
Now I have a Haltech and I am starting off with significantly lower numbers. The car still feels just as fast...the knock sensor is picking up a lot of noise but no huge spikes that I would consider to be definite knock. I haven't finished tuning my knock settings yet so they are still overly sensitive.
athens, i know how it's "supposed" to work below 5k and not above 5k but mine didn't jump to high det map until 6500 so well above the 5k "cutoff". I assumed it was due to knock because after seeing that i dialed back my low det map and never had the issue again. so idk 
GT-ER, i'll trade you my 3.5's for your 3.3's!

GT-ER, i'll trade you my 3.5's for your 3.3's!
/\ do you know what other criteria that will lead for the ECU to switched to the High_Det map? Does it look at coolant temp or IAT or just plain knock? I'm asking because maybe it is something else that triggered it. The high_det map is like the ECU's safe mode so if it sees anything wrong it will go there right?
/\ do you know what other criteria that will lead for the ECU to switched to the High_Det map? Does it look at coolant temp or IAT or just plain knock? I'm asking because maybe it is something else that triggered it. The high_det map is like the ECU's safe mode so if it sees anything wrong it will go there right?
OK, the knock control was one of my main concern when I was talking to Jared via Email and he did confirm that ECU doesnt monitor knock above 5000rpm because there is just to much noise up. If it does act above that then Osiris would've confirmed it and shut up all the basher..
I already have a 3.5 diff...but I'm going to install the 3.3 again because it's kinda scary when 2nd gear tosses me to the side...lol.
Today I beat the living crap out of the car and it hasn't broken yet so I'm just going to leave it alone for now...till I get more mods.
Today I beat the living crap out of the car and it hasn't broken yet so I'm just going to leave it alone for now...till I get more mods.
if you don't have over 500hp going to a 3.3 will bog that car down a bunch.
I really don't want to go to the 3.3 though but I don't know what better tires I can get that won't break the bank for 20" wheels.
I have Nitto NT555 275/30/20 tires and negative camber isn't too bad and 2nd gear side steps a lot. I also have a transgo shift kit which doesn't help.
I really don't want to go to the 3.3 though but I don't know what better tires I can get that won't break the bank for 20" wheels.
I really don't want to go to the 3.3 though but I don't know what better tires I can get that won't break the bank for 20" wheels.

and with 20's i'd really be concerned going 3.3's
get the 555r's. actually my falken 452's weren't too terribly bad for street stuff. second gear they broke loose a little but it was controllable.
I've looked into the NT05's but they too don't come 275/30...they come 275/35 which I don't know how it'll look.
and roll those fenders and stuff the 555r's in there. it'll be worth it!
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