what are you all doing regarding knock count?

 

If you want to listen for knock you can get http://uprev.com/secure/knock-isolator-amplifier.html

 

Well said, I use my Phormula Knock ears to listen, dont trust nothing that the Logger in uprev tells me regarding that.

 

I would also say that the knock count is a pretty useless feature. You get lots of knock count without any real knock through the headphones. I just used some reinforced air hose and drilled a hole to hearing protection.

 

Hi guys! I really need your feedback on my Timing table. My car was Etuned and everything is working alright. I am just curious why my Hi Det table on lower BFS has a higher number than the main timing table? I thought that the Hi Det table should be at least 3-5 lower value than the main timing table?

I read some forum that when they dyno tuned their car and dialed in the main timing table, they just copy and paste that table to the Hi det settings. Then they lower the globally lower the hi det timing table value by 3 to 5 ... Is this right?

I posted my current Main Timing table (above) vs my Hi Det table (below). If you look at the left side of hi det table around 2k RPM there are red values which is way higher than my Main ignition table. My etuner said not to touch it or they do not usually touch those for Etune. Your feed back are greatly appreciated!



BTW, I did try changing that red value on the Hi Det table on lower BFS, but it automatically change other blocks on the left side and some turned red too... So i redo everyhting and put it back to stock...

It seems like table values from 1.18 to 9.45 BFS (400-7200RPM) should be flipped from Hi Det table to the Main timing table. Vice versa...

 

the chance of real knock at low loads/ rpms, is small.

not saying your timing maps are optimal, just saying that timing is pulled from the higher load cells where it should be.

did you look at your stock rom to see how it was originally mapped?

 

Thanks for the response. These are my stock Timing MaPs...

 

Edit

 

In my case -13 was not knock. I get it regardless of the timing and no audible knock occurs. It says on the uprev manual that consecutive knock numbers are knock. I think that higher number indicates more knock strength. However I wouldn't rely on the knock count and would definitely use headphones.

 

Hi guys! I have a stock HR engine with Uprev etuned, I got all my WOT fuel compensation table setting hitting 12.9 AFR. I would like to smooth things out on the rest of the fuel comp table on lower BFS load.

Do I have to data log 1st gear run slow throttle pull, medium, then log again using 2nd gear , then 3rd then 4th etc. Is in it by doing this it changes where the tracing goes for the BFS then I can tweak each fuel comp. table as needed to hit desired AFR? This is how I did the WOT (1st, 2nd , 3rd)

 

I didn't tune on different gears. I just tuned with 3rd or 4th gear and cruising with higher gears. When running closed loop you can look at short term fuel compensation. If you notice that your tune is of with certain voltage you can correct the MAF table. Fine tuning can be done with the fuel compensation table of course.

Something broke on my Z. I don't know what. It just fell flat on it's face during acceleration. I'm thinking maybe it's the cam position sensor. Did a compression test and everything was normal. Still have to do a leakdown test.

What was odd were the numbers from Uprev log when I tried to start the car. For instance target AFR during cranking and idle was 7? I looked at the tables and there was the same 14.7 as before. Does anyone have a startup log so I can compare? Can the ecu just loose it? ECU reset didn't help. Couldn't find a way to test the sensors with uprev. Is it possible?

 

Did someone of you change compression ratio to avoid knock in stock engine? I have twin td05 18G and above 5000rpm I hear knock on headphones and I cant get rid of it retarding ignition...even on 4-5 degrees...I run only 7psi on stock engine.

 

What?

How would you change compression of the stock engine? Headgaskets would make a minor change with a huge amount of work. Only way to change compression significantly is to change out the pistons. Then its not a stock engine anymore.

What is your AFR? Check it with a wideband and post your ignition timing table to this thread. You should be able to get rid of knock by pulling timing or adding more fuel.

 

How? I need a spacer between header and engine block... I calculated that to change CR to 9,1:1 I need ~1,2mm spacer.
It's cheaper and easier to do than forging the engine with new pistons...

Target AFR is 11,69 in high loads (BFS) and RPM... And I hit it within 2-3% of error. Still calibrating new MAF...

Regarding timing...this is my actual timing map(it's NOT done yet). I did it by trial end errors doing pulls on road and listening engine by headphones connected to knock sensor.

 

To change out the head gaskets you need to drop the engine, remove the timing chain, cams, oil pan and pull out both heads. You need to use stock spec HG's because of the design of the engine. If you don't your timing chain cover bolts will not align. and there will be leaks.

So the only option to avoid knock is to build the engine or pull timing. I don't have my timing map at hand now, but from what I can recall your numbers doesn't seem to be exceptionally low.

In Poland gas is different so your timing will be too and you shouldn't compare your map to others that much. I would retard timing so much that there is now knock present. Then start advancing timing until you hear knock and then back off few degrees. Doing it the other way around is not a good strategy.

You have higher timing in the midrange where the torque peak and highest cylinder pressure is. That area should be most sensitive to knock. You can try to advance timing little in the higher rev range.

 

All right, you convinced me... didnt think about it...

I'll try and post if it works... I know that it should but if someone could show me your numbers regarding ignition advance... now I have ~13/14 deg BTDC... I tried even 4-5 deg but still the same... I started think that maybe this what I think it's knock it really is unburned fuel which ignites by itself from temperature and pressure... dont know...

Today, doing some logs I found that my BFS gets very high and don't know why... When earlier I had BFS=~18 close to redline now I have 28-29... Idling was ~1,8 now is 3-4... WTF??? Recently I used Cipher and "cleared learned fuel settings" so maybe thats why I get this... And cranking with Target ARF=7?? Maybe it's a reflash issue? Dont know what is going on... Below some screenshots of my logs.

 

Same **** happened to me also. Look a few posts above. My target AFR during cranking is 7. I don't know what's going on. I looked at my old log and it was 13.64 which made sense.

Is your car running ok or is it pushing black smoke due to unburnt fuel and rich mixture? If the BFS is off basically everything from ignition timing to fueling will be off also.

I probably cleared my fuel settings also and I did update the latest firmware.

 

I dont know if it smoke...cant see it but probably yes...just a little bit because it's rich mixture so it should smoke somehow... but car is running OK.

Regarding high BFS values... I dont know why it happend but I think I should use Load Point Scaler... increase value to ~30 and rebuild Fuel and Ignition maps??? Honestly I dont feel any difference in driveability but I'm not sure if it can stay as it is now...

Regarding cranking AFR... I've just uploaded "BackToStock" map and made some logs...



Then uploaded this what should be in ECU...and it seems to help...



And below screenshot with this what i had few days ago...also 13,64 AFR and low BFS ~1,67...



Should I try to fix it to have lower BFS values or leave it as it is and rescale load axis in fuel and ignition maps? What about intake cams then?

 

I'll have to try that back to stock map. I don't know how you managed to run the car with stock map. You must have bigger injectors. But let's hope that does the trick.

What comes to BFS you sholdn't have to rescale the axis after you have done it once. After reading your post I'm seriously considering Haltech etc with my upcoming built engine. That should never happen!

 

I have 570cc injectors from GTR...
After few crankings my actual Target AFR is ~10,8 but BFS seems to be OK... at least during idling...