Haltech Aux Rev Limit Issue; ideas??
Hey guys,
So I had my haltech installed 2 weeks ago and just got around to installing the Launch control,
I followed the diagrams and they are hooked up to the right wires, I have also used a normally closed switch.
My issue is that, the aux limiter works when driving only, without the button pressed, and does not work when the vehicle is stopped. When the button is pressed I have the full RPM range.
So my first solution is get a normally open switch so that it only works when the button is pressed, is there values that I have to set for speed or temp or something, because all the tuner did was enable the aux rev limit and set it to 4300rpm with ignition cut.
please help!!!
thanks
Jim
So I had my haltech installed 2 weeks ago and just got around to installing the Launch control,
I followed the diagrams and they are hooked up to the right wires, I have also used a normally closed switch.
My issue is that, the aux limiter works when driving only, without the button pressed, and does not work when the vehicle is stopped. When the button is pressed I have the full RPM range.
So my first solution is get a normally open switch so that it only works when the button is pressed, is there values that I have to set for speed or temp or something, because all the tuner did was enable the aux rev limit and set it to 4300rpm with ignition cut.
please help!!!

thanks
Jim
Haltech changed it in one of their revisions from a N.C switch to a N.O switch
I believe it was version 1.04 and up that they changed it
I still got the N.C switch on my car and going to change it out to a N.O when I get a chance
so I can re-enable the 2 step (Aux rev)
I believe it was version 1.04 and up that they changed it
I still got the N.C switch on my car and going to change it out to a N.O when I get a chance
so I can re-enable the 2 step (Aux rev)
Thats all it is. there are no other params. just limited rpm when the switch is closed (which is opposite of what you have). Thats why you want to wire it in with the clutch switch, so its only activated when you are sitting.
http://www.injectedperformance.com/h...structions.pdf
http://www.injectedperformance.com/h...structions.pdf
Last edited by str8dum1; Jun 16, 2011 at 05:54 AM.
IGN cut is much smoother for me. I need to launch around 2500 rpms because my 5AT starts overpowering the brakes at that point (my 2 step is tied to the brake pedal sensor). Fuel cut at 2500 rpms drops the rpms by a couple hundred but ign cut holds right at 2500 smoothly. I only get 1 psi at that point, but it's better than nothing.
Mr Rizk, are you worried about hydrolock?
Mr Rizk, are you worried about hydrolock?
Last edited by rcdash; Jun 16, 2011 at 07:58 AM.
When I intially configured mine I also used ign cut however when I was speaking with haltech they recomended using the fuel cut as it was better. Now i'm using better as a lose term here and the jist of the converstation was it was less wear on the components when using fuel cut and you wont experience a lean burn condition since it is cutting 100% of fuel.
Thank you for the instructions, I double checked everything and its all right. I have my new switch installed so it works when I press it.
I just don't understand why it will only work when the car is in gear driving, if I put it in neutral while driving, doesn't work, push in the clutch, doesn't work and in first car stopped with clutch 3/4 down (so the clutch safety isn't depressed) doesn't workk!!!
I just don't understand why it will only work when the car is in gear driving, if I put it in neutral while driving, doesn't work, push in the clutch, doesn't work and in first car stopped with clutch 3/4 down (so the clutch safety isn't depressed) doesn't workk!!!
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You have the aux rev limiter enabled and it is set to a specific rpm?
You have some way to test that the switch is indeed closed when the clutch is pushed?
It sounds like you still have the wiring reversed.
You have some way to test that the switch is indeed closed when the clutch is pushed?
It sounds like you still have the wiring reversed.
I know It does work because if I press it while driving I have the 4300 rpm limit and if I let go it has the full range. I don't at all have it hooked into the clutch, its just a switch on the two wire harness coming off the haltech, I was thinking about wiring a relay into the clutch switch so it receives signal and closes, grounding the wires and enabling it.
I would just like to make sure it works before I go ahead and wire it to the switch, do you thinkk I should just put in the relay?
Even my tuner didn't know why it wasn't working, but he couldn't stick around to help!!!
Its just weird becuase it doesn't work if the clutch is pressed in or in neutral or if I'm stopped at a light. It only seems to work when the car is moving while in gear!!!
I would just like to make sure it works before I go ahead and wire it to the switch, do you thinkk I should just put in the relay?
Even my tuner didn't know why it wasn't working, but he couldn't stick around to help!!!
Its just weird becuase it doesn't work if the clutch is pressed in or in neutral or if I'm stopped at a light. It only seems to work when the car is moving while in gear!!!
Last edited by ST350zVOLK; Jun 16, 2011 at 06:08 PM.
I also tried jacking up the rear only, putting it in gear and trying to replicate the launch control activating while driving, nothing, Im not sure if maybe it has something to do with front wheel speed sensors? So I guess the aux rev limiter will only work when the computer can see boost.
Last edited by ST350zVOLK; Jun 20, 2011 at 09:31 PM.
There are no other influences, such as wheel speed or boost. Are you running copythrough timing (c's in the ign map?) and using ignition cut for the twostep? If so, that is likely your problem.
So, no copythrough timing and ignition cut at the same time? would you explain more? please.
^Yes, copythrough passes the factory ignition signal through to the coils. You are commanding Haltech to cut ignition firing, but telling it to look to the stock computer for the ignition firing angle. My suspicion/guess is that your ignition map is copythrough in vacuum, but #s in boost? If so, this is why it doesn't work "while parked" vs "while driving"... because you are free revving while parked and there is no boost, therefore you are in a copythrough area of your map. Suggested fix: don't run as much copythrough, or use fuel cut. Feel free to send me your map and I'll take a look.
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