Haltech tuning help
Also, a contributing reason why it's not burning in the wastegate is because as soon as I smell fuel and see that it's back to leaking again I shut the car off. The longest I've run it was the one time it actually was working correctly, and that was only for 7 minutes. Normally it's less than 45 seconds.
Well last weekend I didn't have a chance to work on this due to my brothers car needing a new set of suspension bushings, but I finally had time to swap the plugs today. Didn't help, car is still idling on 5 cylinders and smoking like hell. Of course, not being able to easily access the coils and injectors is not making diagnosis easy; I can't unplug a cylinder to see which one is causing the issues. Old plugs were jet black as expected. Not sure what to do with it at this point. If I had stock injectors I could try going back to the Nissan ECU. I could also swap in the 600s or whatever they are and try the HKS thing again. I'm really getting tired of pulling the damn plenum off though.
well this is frustrating. I found 5 of the 6. Missing the 6th injector and clip.......trying to remember if i sold one before. Just looked through all my usual spots in the garage.
I can send you five and if you want you can pick one up off of ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VQ35DE-VQ-OE...6dca4d&vxp=mtr
I can send you five and if you want you can pick one up off of ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VQ35DE-VQ-OE...6dca4d&vxp=mtr
Awesome, thank you again. Between these and a compression test, I should be able to figure out exactly where the problem is. I still have a feeling its something electrical since it'll intermittently run like it just left the factory. Switching back to the stock ECU will put the injectors, Haltech, and Haltech Y harness to the test.
Update:
I've found the problem, I think. This morning I went out to the car with the injectors from Resmarted (Thanks again!) and was planning to swap over to OEM injectors with the OEM ECU to see what would happen. As I'm gathering my tools, I realize that I never actually tried running the OEM ECU by itself. I went straight from the FCON to the Haltech.
To get a baseline, I started the car. It begins running on 5 cylinders nearly immediately and I shut it down. I disconnect the Haltech and plug the engine into the OEM Nissan ECU. I start it, and to my surprise it quickly fires up and settles into as good of an idle as you could expect (on all 6 cylinders) from running 750cc injectors on a tune set for half of that. The engine would idle, rev (a bit, way too rich) and run normally to a point where I would consider it good enough to begin tuning.
I should clarify at this point that I have the "Pro-Harness" Haltech, as I am not sure I've mentioned that before. This ECU has a massive Y harness which incorporates the Nissan ECU as well as the Haltech itself (think piggyback ECUs). What this test has confirmed is that I either have a fault in the Haltech harness or in the Haltech itself. Does anyone have a pinout of the Haltech itself so that I can begin tracing things with a multimeter to identify the broken wire?
At least I don't have to take that damned plenum off again, lol.
I've found the problem, I think. This morning I went out to the car with the injectors from Resmarted (Thanks again!) and was planning to swap over to OEM injectors with the OEM ECU to see what would happen. As I'm gathering my tools, I realize that I never actually tried running the OEM ECU by itself. I went straight from the FCON to the Haltech.
To get a baseline, I started the car. It begins running on 5 cylinders nearly immediately and I shut it down. I disconnect the Haltech and plug the engine into the OEM Nissan ECU. I start it, and to my surprise it quickly fires up and settles into as good of an idle as you could expect (on all 6 cylinders) from running 750cc injectors on a tune set for half of that. The engine would idle, rev (a bit, way too rich) and run normally to a point where I would consider it good enough to begin tuning.
I should clarify at this point that I have the "Pro-Harness" Haltech, as I am not sure I've mentioned that before. This ECU has a massive Y harness which incorporates the Nissan ECU as well as the Haltech itself (think piggyback ECUs). What this test has confirmed is that I either have a fault in the Haltech harness or in the Haltech itself. Does anyone have a pinout of the Haltech itself so that I can begin tracing things with a multimeter to identify the broken wire?
At least I don't have to take that damned plenum off again, lol.
May have found the problem. The Haltech harness has been 'repaired' before. There are about 6 wires that are damaged but not quite broken, and one wire that had a 4 inch chunk cut out of it with a new piece of mismatched wire tied into place. Instead of soldering, it was tied and taped.





I can only hope that repairing this will be the end of my headaches with this car





I can only hope that repairing this will be the end of my headaches with this car
Yeah those connections are ghetto but I don't honestly believe its going to cause just 1 cylinder to not run.
if you are dapper, cut a little window in the insulation on either side of the patch and check it with a multimeter for continuity. Then (for the dapper part), pull off the 'patch' and slide heat shrink back over the windows, solder the ends up and put some heat shrink on there too.
Hell, screw the testing thing. Solder that wire up and see if it fixes your issues. My moneys on that the ties (although ghetto) work.
And yes we know the OG pnp is like piggy back. Most of these guys were the firsts to run em! I've got one too, and it has a couple of wires clipped even. Worked fine when I had a working car.
if you are dapper, cut a little window in the insulation on either side of the patch and check it with a multimeter for continuity. Then (for the dapper part), pull off the 'patch' and slide heat shrink back over the windows, solder the ends up and put some heat shrink on there too.
Hell, screw the testing thing. Solder that wire up and see if it fixes your issues. My moneys on that the ties (although ghetto) work.
And yes we know the OG pnp is like piggy back. Most of these guys were the firsts to run em! I've got one too, and it has a couple of wires clipped even. Worked fine when I had a working car.
If one of those bad wires is a major output then it could definitely cause one of them to not fire. It's more than just the insulation on most of them, a fair number of the copper strands are torn. It might be alright for a sensor or low current device but if it's going to an injector or a coil I could see it causing problems
i would get shitty with the person that sold it to you. If he informed you of the splices then that's ok but if he lied and didn't mention it then that's crap. I hate dishonest people.
I hope that fixes it. make sure it's actually patched correctly. If soldering it doesn't help I would send the haltech unit to hal to have it tested. Hopefully the ******* didn't fry the motherboard with his crappy connections.
The only thing that makes me think those connections don't have anything to do with it is the fact that the fcon did this same problem and it didn't use that harness.
I hope that fixes it. make sure it's actually patched correctly. If soldering it doesn't help I would send the haltech unit to hal to have it tested. Hopefully the ******* didn't fry the motherboard with his crappy connections.
The only thing that makes me think those connections don't have anything to do with it is the fact that the fcon did this same problem and it didn't use that harness.







