UpRev Tune - CEL (Need Advice)
05-30-2018, 12:05 AM
#1
UpRev Tune - CEL (Need Advice)
TLDR at bottom.
I have a 2008 350Z with 49k miles. It's been babied as far as engine/drivetrain.
Modifications are all bolt ons.. ie: Berk Tech HFC's, Invidia Gemini CBE, New Intake TUBES (retained stock air filter boxes), resonator delete off Driver side intake -- You get the idea.. no top end, bottom end, FI, etc done to the car.
However I DID get an Uprev tune done. I purchased the Tuning software and did the tune myself but I had a specialist/tuner from PA do the tune (a guy recommended from here who tuned Z's only (I believe maybe JDM type as well) who got out of the Tune business due to focusing on the autocross/racing part of the business. However, he made an exception to do a remote tune for me.
I would follow his instructions to run the data logger and do various pulls for him.. ie: Full throttle in X gear(s).. Partial throttle in X gears.. Get up to XYZ speed, sit at idle for so long and so on. We went back and forth half a dozen times and I ended up with his final tune.
The car felt considerably faster and drivability / throttle response etc felt better. Now I COULD have a ***** tune but I did my research at the time and his reputation was quite good and in demand.
The point...
Well I get a CEL (Check engine Light) that comes on periodically during the winter time (when it is cold). My suspicion is it's from the Berk Tech Hi Flow Catalytic Convertors somehow tripping the CEL when it's cold. Maybe a rich condition?
That's why I'm asking you guys -- What is most likely? And what is the best thing to do about this? Also if anyone reads this who tunes and I can send some data to from Cipher (or whatever the software was) that would key you in on what is going on.. please PM me.
I've been clearing the code with the silly turn key to ACC position, gas pedal so many times.. off/on pedal so many times.. hold pedal .. just a ridiculous reset procedure (IIRC There was a reset button off my laptop when I had the Uprev cable plugged in?).
Then in the warmer months the light doesn't come back on. I live in a climate where it's warm 9+ months a year.
If I need to diagnose this with the CEL on to find the code.. what is the best diagnostic OBD reader that will run to my laptop (or phone) for a cheap/reasonable price?
TLDR: I have basically HFC's, and CBE + Uprev Tune -- My Check engine light comes on when it's cold and doesn't when it's not cold (I reset it). What is likely the reason? Can anyone work with my tune on this issue ? OR.. is there anything I can do to the Berk Cats/Car to stop this problem. This didn't happen in the cold the first year or so of having them and tune.
Note: I keep it on "5" - Which is STOCK most of the time.
The tune is..
1 = Performance Tune (max power)
2 = 91 Octane Tune (I assume reduced timing?)
3 = Valet RPM limiter
4 = Engine/ECU Kill/Theft deterrent
5 = Stock
Thanks!
I have a 2008 350Z with 49k miles. It's been babied as far as engine/drivetrain.
Modifications are all bolt ons.. ie: Berk Tech HFC's, Invidia Gemini CBE, New Intake TUBES (retained stock air filter boxes), resonator delete off Driver side intake -- You get the idea.. no top end, bottom end, FI, etc done to the car.
However I DID get an Uprev tune done. I purchased the Tuning software and did the tune myself but I had a specialist/tuner from PA do the tune (a guy recommended from here who tuned Z's only (I believe maybe JDM type as well) who got out of the Tune business due to focusing on the autocross/racing part of the business. However, he made an exception to do a remote tune for me.
I would follow his instructions to run the data logger and do various pulls for him.. ie: Full throttle in X gear(s).. Partial throttle in X gears.. Get up to XYZ speed, sit at idle for so long and so on. We went back and forth half a dozen times and I ended up with his final tune.
The car felt considerably faster and drivability / throttle response etc felt better. Now I COULD have a ***** tune but I did my research at the time and his reputation was quite good and in demand.
The point...
Well I get a CEL (Check engine Light) that comes on periodically during the winter time (when it is cold). My suspicion is it's from the Berk Tech Hi Flow Catalytic Convertors somehow tripping the CEL when it's cold. Maybe a rich condition?
That's why I'm asking you guys -- What is most likely? And what is the best thing to do about this? Also if anyone reads this who tunes and I can send some data to from Cipher (or whatever the software was) that would key you in on what is going on.. please PM me.
I've been clearing the code with the silly turn key to ACC position, gas pedal so many times.. off/on pedal so many times.. hold pedal .. just a ridiculous reset procedure (IIRC There was a reset button off my laptop when I had the Uprev cable plugged in?).
Then in the warmer months the light doesn't come back on. I live in a climate where it's warm 9+ months a year.
If I need to diagnose this with the CEL on to find the code.. what is the best diagnostic OBD reader that will run to my laptop (or phone) for a cheap/reasonable price?
TLDR: I have basically HFC's, and CBE + Uprev Tune -- My Check engine light comes on when it's cold and doesn't when it's not cold (I reset it). What is likely the reason? Can anyone work with my tune on this issue ? OR.. is there anything I can do to the Berk Cats/Car to stop this problem. This didn't happen in the cold the first year or so of having them and tune.
Note: I keep it on "5" - Which is STOCK most of the time.
The tune is..
1 = Performance Tune (max power)
2 = 91 Octane Tune (I assume reduced timing?)
3 = Valet RPM limiter
4 = Engine/ECU Kill/Theft deterrent
5 = Stock
Thanks!
05-30-2018, 08:40 AM
#2
Registered User
Something like
will connect to your phone, tell you what codes you are throwing (most important), and allow you to clear them without the whole key+pedal song and dance. I keep one in my car at all times. Make sure you consider the cost of the phone app as well (some are free, some are not)
The only way to solve your problem is to know what code it's throwing. It could be a bad seal on the gas cap or some problem with the purge valve when it's cold, a bad o2 sensor, hfc, basically it could be anything. The first step is always to retrieve the code.
The only way to solve your problem is to know what code it's throwing. It could be a bad seal on the gas cap or some problem with the purge valve when it's cold, a bad o2 sensor, hfc, basically it could be anything. The first step is always to retrieve the code.
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