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the tuner at Corr performance was the one making me feel like it’s a major mistake turning off the exhaust cam phasers. He said that’s where our engines make the most power. Now I believe that it’s just a mid rpm torque thing.
I’m on the fence about just going ahead and purchasing a new left and right exh cam phaser set. 1300$ is a tough pill to swallow if it still doesn’t work though.
I joke because I dont have exhaust cam timing!
I would mostly agree that a heathy amount of torque is made, mid-range, with variable cam timing ... both on the intake and exhaust side.
Not sure what to tell you on the cam phaser set - tell me again, do you have an 2006 rev-up or an HR??
I'm in the Process of getting my Link G4X. I'm Working with Hal from Dynosty, but have not got to far yet.
I'm wondering what everyone is doing for an WideBand Controller with the Link G4+ & G4X
I have a Innovate LM-1 WideBand Controller & Aux Box and would like to use it if it's Acceptable! As it's kind of old tech. But it's always worked well.
NOTE: Super long 6ft cable to o2 sensor.
The Link Can Lambda Controller looks like a quality product, But I have questions about the wiring Diagram.
Where do I find the Factory CAN Wirers?
Just seams like the wiring diagram is missing a lot of info.
Maybe it's much more clear once you have parts & docs in hand. lol
NOTE: very short cable to o2 sensor
AnyBody Hook 1 of these up like this?
Parts List
Link G4X ECU 210-3000
CAN Lambda 125-1000
Cable (CANPCB) 101-0022 required for lambda
Plug (CANF). 101-0020 required for lambda
Thoughts AnyBody?
Thanks TimRod
Last edited by OldManZ350; Jun 26, 2020 at 02:45 AM.
Does the link not have two 0-5v imputs you can designate as Wideband 1 and Wideband 2? That way the LM-1 can be the O2 controller and not the Link ECU. Those directions look like if you wanted to use the Link as the O2 controller, but you don't need that since the LM-1 is the controller.
Originally Posted by OldManZ350
I'm in the Process of getting my Link G4X. I'm Working with Hal from Dynosty, but have not got to far yet.
I'm wondering what everyone is doing for an WideBand Controller with the Link G4+ & G4X
I have a Innovate LM-1 WideBand Controller & Aux Box and would like to use it if it's Acceptable! As it's kind of old tech. But it's always worked well.
NOTE: Super long 6ft cable to o2 sensor.
The Link Can Lambda Controller looks like a quality product, But I have questions about the wiring Diagram.
Where do I find the Factory CAN Wirers?
Just seams like the wiring diagram is missing a lot of info.
Maybe it's much more clear once you have parts & docs in hand. lol
NOTE: very short cable to o2 sensor
AnyBody Hook 1 of these up like this?
Parts List
Link G4X ECU 210-3000
CAN Lambda 125-1000
Cable (CANPCB) 101-0022 required for lambda
Plug (CANF). 101-0020 required for lambda
The Link Can Lambda Controller looks like a quality product, But I have questions about the wiring Diagram.
Where do I find the Factory CAN Wirers?
...
Thoughts AnyBody?
Thanks TimRod
Originally Posted by Conway_160
Does the link not have two 0-5v imputs you can designate as Wideband 1 and Wideband 2?
OMZ - I don't think anyone would argue that CAN is better hands down. I went late-80s technology and used the two OEM O2 sensor inputs and just re-pinned them to my AEM UEGO 0-5v old-school analog outputs. The sensors go to my AEM gauges and then the 0-5v signal is carried to the Link.
I didn't want to make it overly complicated and I 'think' I understand the concept of CAN but like you mentioned above, I'm clueless when it comes to Nissan CAN network and I didn't want to funker anything up.
So where is an easy place to pick-up switched 12V Power and Ground, to power the CAN Lambda Module ?
Originally Posted by bealljk
OMZ - I don't think anyone would argue that CAN is better hands down. I went late-80s technology and used the two OEM O2 sensor inputs and just re-pinned them to my AEM UEGO 0-5v old-school analog outputs. The sensors go to my AEM gauges and then the 0-5v signal is carried to the Link.
I didn't want to make it overly complicated and I 'think' I understand the concept of CAN but like you mentioned above, I'm clueless when it comes to Nissan CAN network and I didn't want to funker anything up.
So where is an easy place to pick-up switched 12V Power and Ground, to power the CAN Lambda Module ?
is it 12volt or is it 14volt?
I've learned (both from the help from Link and HP Academy) sensor power needs to be much tighter tolerance than other misc power on the car. So it is wise to use the OEM's ECU power and grounds from the ECU (obviously these are relatively limited to 5volt and 14volt and to very small amperage outputs). It looks like Pin 3 (AUX 9/10) is a 14volt output (please verify before you use it) and then I would ground-out to Pin 1. Let me get a picture or a scan of my pin tables and pin function list just to give you an idea on how I wired my setup. I have clean copies too. Link gives you 8"x11" with the ECU but I feel putting them on 11"x17" makes it easier to jot notes and 'checks'.
I would mostly agree that a heathy amount of torque is made, mid-range, with variable cam timing ... both on the intake and exhaust side.
Not sure what to tell you on the cam phaser set - tell me again, do you have an 2006 rev-up or an HR??
I have the 2006 rev up.
I replaced the exhaust cam sprockets from a guy selling 350z parts from his yard. Thezplug
The exh cams still wonky from target to actual.
Do you have a known good Revup exh sprocket? It may well be my dam oil and pid settings.
contacted meatbag and he said he used the jwt adj sprockets and killed the magnet retarders altogether. But then he was pushing 1200hp
I have the 2006 rev up.
I replaced the exhaust cam sprockets from a guy selling 350z parts from his yard. Thezplug
The exh cams still wonky from target to actual.
Do you have a known good Revup exh sprocket? It may well be my dam oil and pid settings.
contacted meatbag and he said he used the jwt adj sprockets and killed the magnet retarders altogether. But then he was pushing 1200hp
Cool - Yea, I have a Rev-Up exhaust cog gear in the garage. I think it came off an engine part out awhile back. If you want to buy it let me know.
Something to be said about stupid simple designs. Absolutely nothing against you but I wish Nissan would have skipped the Rev-Up altogether and either added ayear to the DE or debuted the HR in 2006.
Jason (while he was with PSI) sold me my link g4+, did my initial base map, and my 568hp tune back in 2019 and I was pretty happy with the experience.
Why did you bring Link into the discussion if the issues were between you and the tuner? Obviously, there is alot of context missing here and I hope you get things worked out.
The first tuner that I purchased their ECU from wasn’t qualified, so I contacted Link to refer me to someone in their network; the guy in their network had the car for 3-months and still couldn’t get it to run right. Should be noted, car didn’t have a single issue, even drove it 350 miles to have the ECU installed initially and took it straight from the first shop to their network tuner. The Link associated tuner, even removed the wideband where the second O2 sensor used to be located, not realizing that was part of the process and putting a O2 back in. So when I got the car back still not running right, put the stock ECU back in and scanned it, just to find out the O2 he installed wasn’t working and so I replaced…and guess what, car ran like a champ. So then I communicated to Jason that either his tuner wasn’t up to speed or it was a faulty ECU, and he put me into contact with one of his employees to supposedly help me. I emailed his guy to set up an appointment after speaking with him on the phone, no response. I emailed him again, and still no response, and then Jason emailed me back stating that he was no longer willing to allow his guy to do a remote tune. So if the car is running well with the stock ECU, then it’s either their network tuner needs more education or the ECU is bad, and they’re not willing to look into it even as a potential warranty issue.
Agreed with bealljk. My experience has been the polar opposite with Link, but can't speak to your US reps.
Their forum is fantastic (mostly answered by two incredibly knowledgeable Link staff at all hours) and when I was first getting my car up and running with a G4X, I had one guy remote into my laptop on multiple occasions for what were pretty noob-ish issues.
Highly recommended from me.
Re current comparisons on hardware (appreciate this is an old thread), the G4X has a much broader set of features and IO than the old Haltech Platinum.
Zero issues with Link here too. The forum itself is absolutely fantastic !
The way you're (robg93277) talking to him as well seems very pushy too, and you keep cutting in - sure maybe out of frustration but this is properly lop-sided - and shouldn't be posted in public (imho).
Hopefully, whatever the frigging problem is, you get sorted but, respectfully, you could also do with being more diplomatic over the phone (imho).
They've been very helpful to me via the forum, granted probably not quite as much as others which I suspect is due to me buying a used, older Vipec (running on G4+ at least).
But was more than enough to get me up and running.
My only complaint with Link is their peripheral's pricing
Yea - Adam (on the Link Forum) is a god umong men on the platform … goodlord he is smart!
Originally Posted by RobPhoboS
respectfully, you could also do with being more diplomatic over the phone (imho)
I was going to say this (respectfully) too … but I wasnt in OP’s shoes and I know I’ve been in places where I’ve been so upset that I couldnt sit and all I wanted to do was take someone’s head off … and there is a ton of context missing … dont want to throw stones.