The purpose of this thread is to compare and contrast the Haltech Platinum Standalone vs. the Link G4+ Standalone

Background:
I ran the Platinum Piggyback from 2008 to 2018 and became very familiar with the software and ECU over this time. In 2018 I upgraded to a Link G4+ Standalone and have been learning the software and the ECU ever since.

I will be 100% upfront and honest and say that I am biased towards the Link and my first hand experience is from a late 2000s piggy-back versus a mid 2010s standalone. Although I am going to reference the Platinum Standalone software.

Please feel free to chime in with your relevant experiences and hopefully this will be a intriguing discussion. I would love it for someone with a wealth of Haltech knowledge to chime in too. And it'd be awesome to have anyone with an Elite share their experience too.

 

Cost:

When I upgraded to my G4+ cost was a large factor. I bought the Link G4+ standalone for $1300 which included a promotion as I bought it from a shop in Portland who gave me an hour of remote-ECU setup. You'll need to add $400 for wideband O2 control. I had two AEM UEGO's ($340 new) that output a 0-5v analog signal that the Link easily can pickup and use or closed-loop wideband control. I also spent another $450 on high-end AEM pressure sensors ($150 each) so that I could take advantage of Link's ability to monitor oil pressure, coolant pressure, and fuel pressure. These were not mandatory to get the ECU up and running.

The Haltech Platinum Standalone is $1865 on Concept Z and $2085 on Z1. For sake of the discussion I'm going to use $1900 for the baseline cost. Haltechs 2nd generation wideband controller is $500 and includes controller and two LSU4.2 sensors. I do not know if the Platinum can take auxillary sensor inputs for oil/coolant/fuel pressures? If it can than you'd add the same $450 for sensors (or deduct them from both for the sake of the argument).

Haltech: $2850
Link: $2090

 

Can't wait to see everyone's inputs.

I would like to think if the old school Piggy Back system could use 0-5v signals from aftermarket widebands then the new modern Haltech's can as well.

 

lets start easy … these are the home screens of each ECU.


This is Haltechs 'Home' screen. Link and Haltech are relatively the same. You have a tuning worksheet with menus and shortcuts towards the top and expandable menus to the left. Furthermore, both ECUs allow you to have 'tabs' for anything you like. Both ECUs are very customizable and these are just examples of mine. They are very very very configurable and you can have different styles of gauges, different ranges, and warning lights associated with each. Haltechs are easier to setup and I feel have more warning capabilities than the Link (but I am not 100% sure about this).

Haltech is far more simplified. Their menus are logically and easier to understand (I'll go into this more later). If you're new to tuning and want a very logical layout and function than Haltech is probably a better choice.

Haltech uses the bottom left corner for a 'help' section and does a mediocre job of explaining what each feature is used for. Link is universes better in both form and function. (more on this later - it's such a broad topic that I'll dedicate a post to this).

Haltech uses the very bottom portion of the worksheet for Data-Logging. Data Manager is the logging feature and this is where you do your data logging.














This is Links layout. Very similar to Haltech in that it has menus at the top and these are very comparable but are more in-depth and have more options and more tuning features. This is at a cost - Link has more features but is more complicated and you will need a more in-depth and tuning base knowledge to fully utilize these.

Link has similar menus on the left side but this particular setup has more features than the haltech. Furthermore, Haltech stores their setup menus in a different areas (they have a short-cut button that looks like a cog-gear to access their setup menus) while Link stores the setup menus in the same menus (on the left side) with their associated feature … meaning that anything setup related to fuel is under the fuel menu, along side the fuel tables (AFR target table, fuel comp tables, main fueling table, etc.). This is nice because if you are working on fuel setup you have both settings and tables to work with but it definitely makes things more complicated as you have to sort though different menus.


This is my system monitor tab. I typically keep this tab up when I am driving. It has the parameters I need to monitor the car while driving to monitor what the car is doing.

I use the F&I (fuel & ignition) when I am working with fuel and ignition, log to review data logs, Protect tab to monitor and setup my rescue sensors, Knk monitors my knock sensor and it's abilities, Idle tab to mess with my idle, and Launch is a tab I setup to dig into my launch control. Everything is very configurable. One huge thing I like about Link is that you can change the font size of menus. So you can make font smaller to add more things to the same amount of screen space. I don't think Haltech has this option.

One feature that I really like is that Link will give you error codes (which are associated with the CEL light on the gauge cluster) when a user defined error occurs … you can see on the top of the screen in red, 'ECU Fault Code 46: AN Temp 2 above error high value' … it takes a little experience to work with but AN Temp 2 is my fuel temp sensor and I'm having an issue with its ground or power and the ECU is telling me that the sensor is reading outside of my defined setup, in-fact, I turned this sensor off until I can chase down this issue … but you can setup most sensors to flip the CEL on when a reading is outside of parameters you setup...so I can tell the CEL to come on if the fuel pressure drops below 51psi and I can almost instantaneously know this by knowing which AN (analog) sensor is listed.



This is fuel & ignition - very similar to what Haltech has but axis are opposite. I think there is an option to reverse them but I prefer them this way - this is mostly because what I have learned with HPA and their usage of their Link G4+. One thing that I appreciated when I jumped over to Link is that you can look at your Fuel and Ignition maps at the same time. With Haltech you can only look at one or the others (as dictated by what menu you are in).

 

Absolutely you can!

its not recommended to use analog signal on widebands as there is no protection if the sensor fails or begins failing. It could read the wrong volts and ecu will only see what its told.

The canbus dual controller option is safer and the ecu will be "warned" of errors.

 

I dont think that analog wideband control is recommended or not recommended, I think canbus is preferred, and it's preferred because it reads / transmits faster than analog.

This may be unpopular but I am far less worried about a bad AFR than I am about a bad ignition timing.

I'll sing the praises of Link right quick (and I bet Haltech does this on some of their ECUs) but I can program two safety features into the link.

#1 - the link will default to a hard-programed AFR value if the AFR goes outside of my user-defined parameters ... meaning if the AFR rises above 15:1 (and you program it in via voltage) than the link will default to a user defined value, flip the CEL on, spit out a error code, and use my value in all the fuel calculation.

#2 - I can limit the RPMs based on AFR ratio (lambda) and what gear I'm in. So if the sensor does fail and is reading 18:1 it will rev-limit me to user defined rpm.

I'll be the first to admit - these are hard to program in and there is a sweet-spot as you dont want an RPM limit to kick in bc your fuel pressure dropped to 51.999999 psi where you set your threshold to 52psi ... and part of it is trial and error.

 

ill have to check again but im almost positive haltech has the afr protection as well as others. I need to get my hands on link, i havent played with it to know enough about it.

Ok found it!

Monitored sensors for engine protection
• Oil Pressure
• Fuel Pressure
• Air Temperature
• Coolant Temperature
• Exhaust Gas Temperature
• Air / Fuel Ratio

Each of the sensors have a combination of minimum and maximum allowed values, as well as the maximum time the sensor is allowed to go out of range. Once these conditions are met you can choose to have the engine Rev limited or shut down. You can also choose to keep the engine running at a reduced power output by lowering the boost level, adding extra fuel or removing ignition timing – even further helping to avoid engine damage.

 

Yea - so Haltech has AFR protection built into the software with some user defined metrics. I don't completely understand what Haltech is saying … are they saying that if the AFR climbs above 13:1, and with a MAP of 34.5kpa, and a TP of 50% it does what?

I like what Link has because it gives you more options and more flexibility as to when to activate the protection. I don't care if my oil pressure is at 15psi, as long as I'm under 2000rpm … but if my oil pressure is 15psi at 6000rpm than I have a problem.

Also, AFR spikes to 30:1 when you lift off the throttle … which is completely normal, hence why my max is 5volts before it kicks into protection mode. So this safety feature is practically useless.

Here's a screenshot of how I have my Link setup.

#1 is on the right in the thinner red-lined box

#2 is on the left in the thicker red-lined box

 

With this being said (previous post) ...

fail-safes

Obviously a very important feature of any ECU setup ... I dont think a human car recognize, react, and shut down a car fast enough to save an engine in most cases (when & where a failure occurs).

Haltech does have 'some' rescue features. I dont know much about them and I dont completely understand how they work but they seem like they are relatively comparable if you compare apples to apples. As seen in the previous posts - Haltech does have coolant temp, coolant pressure, intake air temp, exhaust gas temp, fuel pressure, oil pressure, and AFR. I believe if the engine goes outside of any parameter than it defaults to the 'effects' user-definitions on the same page.

I can only assume Haltech has some sort of timing-retard if it recognizes knock. I dont immediately see knock control(but I'll look for it)

This is a really good feature and I'm happy that haltech has this feature in some capacity. It looks like you need to install specific sensors for each fail-safe guard. I dont know how these sensors signals are imported into the haltech. I can only assume you reassign a pin on the ECU connector (which is how Link does it) or if you have to purchase a Haltech specific module.





(pics)






Quite possibly the biggest selling point for the Link (in my case) was the rescue sensors and the user definition on each sensor. I knew that these rescue sensors were a part of the Link package (from HPA) but I learned more and more as I learned the software. (As previously discussed) I like that I can define how the rescue sensor impacts the engine-function and I like that I can define how impactful. I can restrict the engine to XYZ RPM if oil pressure drops below XYZpsi or if engine coolant temp creeps above XYZ degrees I can cap RPMs. Seeing that passive air does more for cooling, cutting engine speeds to 1500rpm would do more harm than good. The flipside, if fuel pressure drops to 5psi (say I get a fuel leak) than I can restrict the engine speed to 1500rpm.

I have all 'effects' set to RPM, but I believe I can change it to limit boost pressure, BCS duty cycle, or other user defined metric.





(pics)




With the weather being so winter'ish the past few months I have really gotten into the knock control, setup, and how to use it...secretly excited on using it, and using it (along with audio detection) to tune ignition timing. Fuel is easy, ign timing is tough!

 

Haltech has a lot of features, albeit buggy and poorly explained.

I have a love-hate with my haltech. The forum blows with only one haltech guy trying to answer and there are so many quirky things with haltech that they just are not fixing.

 

Link appears to be more user friendly. They seem to be very similar in function which is good.

As for knock its under knock threshold with haltech.

This is a good thread. Ive personally never seen link and had my car not come with this brand new haltech when I got it I probably would have gone link from what Im seeing.

Haltechs forum is garbage. But if you email Nik in support he's petty quick at responding.

On other forums forums Ive been on there is usually a strong community of people that can help each other. Heck dsmtuners will make you a pro at ecmlink if you hang around and talk with people.

Id live to see some more of this here. James is doing an awesome job on informing us all on what he has found.

 

I thought the Haltech software was way easier to learn but this is comparing my Haltech PnP software, and the standalone software to Link's standalone software.

Maybe I should do knock control as it's on post?

and the forum, link has a pretty good forum. Pretty good content but slow responses...or maybe include forum with customer support?

just my experience, trying to document each, like I said, I'm bias towards the Link and my experience is 2008'ish Haltech PnP vs. 2015 Link standalone. Although, I am trying to be as fair to each.

 

Chiming in to keep updated with this thread.

Link G4+ user myself. First standalone setup for me so nothing to compare it to. Ultimate deciding factor for me to purchase it was because cost and I knew that the forums for link were active and helpful. So far so good with my setup, Im a first time tuner (learned with HPAcademy). Fuel table is dialed in for the most part, haven't touched the ignition table because Im looking into what knock detection equipment I want, and right now leaning toward something like the Phormula KS-4.

Other than that I have to sort out a little hot start trouble Im having with the car and there are several tables and settings available in Link software that could help alleviate this. Because of how customizable it is, I have actually made an independent layout tab with everything I want to work with to get the hot start dialed in.

Lastly, I was having issues with an RPM limit being triggered artificially which seems to have come from the cam/crank sensors as it hasn't happened since I have changed those sensors out.

 

Such as?

 

It triggers CEL and going into limp mode.

 

Cam control issues
The stand alone IDLE control is a joke and overly complicated. Makes it inconsistent day to day.
Their directions for wiring an analog input vary (manual vs software vs what you really have to do)
Zero throttle map active even when unselected (ig timing)

go to their forum and see how many posts there are when they end up with Matt saying "thats just how it is" leaving the user to deal with it.

 

Cam control issues on VQ35RevUp? On a DE it works just fine.
Idle control, must agree, it's far from perfect for a daily but not that bad for a race car, especially aggressively cam'ed one.
Personally, never had any issues with inputs and outputs, and man, I'm using a lot of them! Populated all channels on Ecu as well most of additional in CAN I/O expander box too.
Interesting, I'll check zero throttle map activation, haven't noticed anything wired with ignition timing on idle, will definitely check that!
In addition, Haltech has (or had in my case) bug with conditioning generic correction tables (both fuel and ignition), they are (were) activated no matter condition is met or not. Well, after more than a year asking and begging for a fix, I got fixed firmware thanks to Matthew who stands for me in front of Haltech development. Take in consideration too that Pro PlugIn is pretty old platform today, there are harness for PnP their newer Elite ECU to 350Z and it is way better ECU! It has ton's of new features plus most of (if not all) things mentioned here are fixed or done better way.

 

RevUp is a DE. Known issue about having to restart engine to clear (mine does it and will run like crap until I simply restart).

Matthew is simply a buffer to haltech engineering\developers. He is helpful but limited.

DPI issue with their wiring (was not the analog) https://forums.haltech.com/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=13763

Also their goofy *** boost control.

I ran the harness and now the plugin. I have the expander box and their WBO2...so haltech has me for over 3k. **** should work.

 

RevUp is DE indeed, non RevUp DE isn't affected with that cam control bug and I've only did Haltech on non RevUp's, that's why I'm not aware of it.

I feel your pain, and you are 100% right, for the price it should work without any issue, or at least they should fix in a reasonable amount of time. Instead, they abandoned it as a project, left it "as is" while still selling it and that part of the story isn't fair. At some point was very mad on them too, the lack of I/O channels and motor sport features with that annoying bug related to generic correction tables activation conditions, had two choices. Throw out the Haltech and go with different brand (was seriously looking towards Syvecs) or deal with it with some creativity. Obviously, went with option two.

At the end it turned out quite well for me, I've achieved 98% of what I wanted to do with my project Z. Actually I was thinking that it's the right time being mostly at home during this COVID 19 thing to make some kind of tutorial here on boards of using Haltech in advanced and clever way on a 350Z.

 

this would be awesome … with your knowledge base, ambition, and connections it'd turn-out great!

I appreciate the conversation of both you and CUXs - my fear when I started this thread was that it was going to be my voice on either platform and I'm nothing close to an expert. To have other opinions (right, wrong, or indifferent) is what'll make the thread truly useful.