2004 ECU updates..
#121
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Re: Re: Re: Question
Originally posted by 350Zenophile
...I'm also curious if you waited to install your mods after the break-in period. Charles at Zfever was telling me yesterday that he's noticed the 350Z ECU negates the performance gain of bolt ons if done before the break-in period is complete (1200 miles).
...I'm also curious if you waited to install your mods after the break-in period. Charles at Zfever was telling me yesterday that he's noticed the 350Z ECU negates the performance gain of bolt ons if done before the break-in period is complete (1200 miles).
#122
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ah, right you are deviant1...I keyed in on one of his first posts where he said: "My first dyno run after the install provided roughly 215 HP and 214 ft/lbs. That is about an 11 HP and 9 ft/lbs loss!!"
His AFR is appreciably leaner than ZBoater's which lends credence to the newer ECU being more adept at correcting it.
His AFR is appreciably leaner than ZBoater's which lends credence to the newer ECU being more adept at correcting it.
#123
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Re: Re: Question
Originally posted by ZBoater
Maybe its because I'm just special...
Or maybe its because the 04.5 ECUs are more effective in monitoring and adjusting A/F ratios to the conditions caused by the mods.
Maybe its because I'm just special...
Or maybe its because the 04.5 ECUs are more effective in monitoring and adjusting A/F ratios to the conditions caused by the mods.
If his build date's 07/03, then it is still the 2003 ECU and not the 2004.5 version. Those started from 10/03 and on.
We are very close to releasing the 2004.5 ECUs for the 350Z and the G35's.
#124
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Mity Maps are in from Japan and Mod maps are being developed as we speak for the R4 & R5 Ecu's.
T/S installed the first production prototype Ecu in my 04 Base which has a R5 Ecu. a couple of weeks ago. After 3000 mi breakin ( had to get a new oil change) we install the new modified maps. The car came to life.A/F when from 14.5 to 12.8-13
Tadashi worked for 4.5 hours Fine tuning the Twisted II (Popcharger & Stillen catback exhaust) only.
Next week we will be dyno & fine tuning it even tighter, before they offer it to the public, so stay tuned for the numbers.
T/S installed the first production prototype Ecu in my 04 Base which has a R5 Ecu. a couple of weeks ago. After 3000 mi breakin ( had to get a new oil change) we install the new modified maps. The car came to life.A/F when from 14.5 to 12.8-13
Tadashi worked for 4.5 hours Fine tuning the Twisted II (Popcharger & Stillen catback exhaust) only.
Next week we will be dyno & fine tuning it even tighter, before they offer it to the public, so stay tuned for the numbers.
#125
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Re: Re: Re: Question
Originally posted by TECHNOSQUARE
It's actually quite the opposite. With most 2004.5 and newer, we've found them to run dangerously lean after adding mods. From the factory, the cars are lean to begin with.
If his build date's 07/03, then it is still the 2003 ECU and not the 2004.5 version. Those started from 10/03 and on.
We are very close to releasing the 2004.5 ECUs for the 350Z and the G35's.
It's actually quite the opposite. With most 2004.5 and newer, we've found them to run dangerously lean after adding mods. From the factory, the cars are lean to begin with.
If his build date's 07/03, then it is still the 2003 ECU and not the 2004.5 version. Those started from 10/03 and on.
We are very close to releasing the 2004.5 ECUs for the 350Z and the G35's.
Thanks for your help.
#126
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Re: Re: Re: Re: Question
Originally posted by ZBoater
Ok, so if I look at my A/F chart, what should I do? (a link is in my sig). Looks fine to me. I have an 04/04 build date. I did two dynos with A/F sensors, one connected directly to where an O2 sensor connects and another to the tailpipe. Both readings were similar. Is there something else I should be looking for?
Thanks for your help.
Ok, so if I look at my A/F chart, what should I do? (a link is in my sig). Looks fine to me. I have an 04/04 build date. I did two dynos with A/F sensors, one connected directly to where an O2 sensor connects and another to the tailpipe. Both readings were similar. Is there something else I should be looking for?
Thanks for your help.
Hey ZBoater, where'd you get your dyno's and installs done? I'm looking for someone in the TB area to install my headers and cats. Thanks!
#127
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Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Question
Originally posted by 350Zenophile
Can anyone explain the anomaly that is ZBoater? I want his ECU.
Hey ZBoater, where'd you get your dyno's and installs done? I'm looking for someone in the TB area to install my headers and cats. Thanks!
Can anyone explain the anomaly that is ZBoater? I want his ECU.
Hey ZBoater, where'd you get your dyno's and installs done? I'm looking for someone in the TB area to install my headers and cats. Thanks!
For a dyno in Tampa, the folks at Coastal Chassis Dyno can hook you up. They are located in Brandon. If you are a member of the 350Z Club of Florida they even give you a discount. Their number is 813-849-2423.
For installs, I had all my NISMO stuff done by my dealer, Autoway Nissan of Clearwater. They are very mod friendly and Craig (my service advisor) is awesome. If you call them tell them the guy with the black NISMO roadster sent ya. He'll take care of you.
Also, Autoway Nissan of Brandon is a sponsor of our 350Z club, so they are very mod friendly. Depending on where you live you can choose either one and won't go wrong.
Last edited by ZBoater; 12-12-2004 at 11:15 AM.
#128
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Hi Zboater. If you took out the factory O2 sensor and plugged in a wideband O2 for the run, I would have to throw out your A/F readings. When you take out the O2 and leave it hanging, the computer is going to richen up the car by a lot. If you disconnect the O2, it will go to default and run richer than normal and cause the CEL to come on too.
#129
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Originally posted by TECHNOSQUARE
Hi Zboater. If you took out the factory O2 sensor and plugged in a wideband O2 for the run, I would have to throw out your A/F readings. When you take out the O2 and leave it hanging, the computer is going to richen up the car by a lot. If you disconnect the O2, it will go to default and run richer than normal and cause the CEL to come on too.
Hi Zboater. If you took out the factory O2 sensor and plugged in a wideband O2 for the run, I would have to throw out your A/F readings. When you take out the O2 and leave it hanging, the computer is going to richen up the car by a lot. If you disconnect the O2, it will go to default and run richer than normal and cause the CEL to come on too.
Here is the link for the dyno that used the O2 sensor:
http://www.quiros.net/350z/dynos/100804AF.jpg
And here is the link for the other dyno, the one that used the tailpipe sensor:
http://www.quiros.net/350z/dynos/100904AF.jpg
With the two of them being so close to each other, I have no reason to doubt where my A/F is at this point. Also, the CEL light never came on in either case.
I am just trying to understand so I can make an informed decision. Any feedback or suggestions will be appreciated.
Thanks!!!
#131
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Originally posted by TECHNOSQUARE
I'm trying to understand the first A/F reading. It looks like the guy held the throttle at around 4K rpm for 11 seconds to read the A/F?
I'm trying to understand the first A/F reading. It looks like the guy held the throttle at around 4K rpm for 11 seconds to read the A/F?
#132
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Ah, gotcha. Talk about faint. I didn't even see the yellow line till you mentioned it!
Well, we just did Mr Twisted's car today and if we have a chance, we'll post the dyno results from before and after. His AFR was similar to yours yet he still gained a decent amount of power from just having an exhaust and intake. His car is a 2004.5 btw.
Well, we just did Mr Twisted's car today and if we have a chance, we'll post the dyno results from before and after. His AFR was similar to yours yet he still gained a decent amount of power from just having an exhaust and intake. His car is a 2004.5 btw.
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Originally posted by TECHNOSQUARE
Ah, gotcha. Talk about faint. I didn't even see the yellow line till you mentioned it!
Well, we just did Mr Twisted's car today and if we have a chance, we'll post the dyno results from before and after. His AFR was similar to yours yet he still gained a decent amount of power from just having an exhaust and intake. His car is a 2004.5 btw.
Ah, gotcha. Talk about faint. I didn't even see the yellow line till you mentioned it!
Well, we just did Mr Twisted's car today and if we have a chance, we'll post the dyno results from before and after. His AFR was similar to yours yet he still gained a decent amount of power from just having an exhaust and intake. His car is a 2004.5 btw.
Is there a 2004.5 G35 Crawford Package Reflash (headers, cats, plenum)? If so, would you still need an A/F chart with the ECU?
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Originally posted by TECHNOSQUARE
For now, we would like to have an A/F chart with all 2004.5's that want to reflash. Also, we're still waiting on a few things to release the G35's.
For now, we would like to have an A/F chart with all 2004.5's that want to reflash. Also, we're still waiting on a few things to release the G35's.
#139
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Regarding A/F measurements on a dyno and what some folks posted up above, how exactly do you get an accurate A/F reading on a dyno? Those tail pipe sniffers are after the cats, so wouldn't that greatly affect the a/f reading? I would guess you'd want the dyno's sensor to be before the cats. However, that either means a dedicated bung for the dyno sensor, or removing one of the factory sensors. Wouldn't removing a factory sensor cause all sorts of problems with the computer?
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Originally posted by jreiter
Regarding A/F measurements on a dyno and what some folks posted up above, how exactly do you get an accurate A/F reading on a dyno? Those tail pipe sniffers are after the cats, so wouldn't that greatly affect the a/f reading? I would guess you'd want the dyno's sensor to be before the cats. However, that either means a dedicated bung for the dyno sensor, or removing one of the factory sensors. Wouldn't removing a factory sensor cause all sorts of problems with the computer?
Regarding A/F measurements on a dyno and what some folks posted up above, how exactly do you get an accurate A/F reading on a dyno? Those tail pipe sniffers are after the cats, so wouldn't that greatly affect the a/f reading? I would guess you'd want the dyno's sensor to be before the cats. However, that either means a dedicated bung for the dyno sensor, or removing one of the factory sensors. Wouldn't removing a factory sensor cause all sorts of problems with the computer?
Does TS recommend that we unscrew the passenger side Oxygen sensor and do several runs? I've read that unscrewing the passengers side sensor will allow you 5 to 10 runs before the ECU freaks out. I've also read that the tail pipe, sniffer method, is very inaccurate. What is the suggested method?