KManZ

iTrader: (8)

I am happy that I could help out! That article is great, as it has finally given me a definitive answer to the oil search

itsjiggajames

iTrader: (5)

That article makes me want to change from my ow-40 mobile 1 to castrol ow-30.. sort of makes 40weight look bad.

sibble

This is the first of 3 oil reports for the castrol 0w30.

I stretched the miles out a bit with this one, was just bad timing. 8,174 miles on the oil, and I had 39,774 on the car when I drained it.

I was surprised to see how much the lead jumped, but I'm also anxious to see my next oil analysis. Aluminum is what it is most likely because of the extended oil run. I'm pretty happy with the rest of the wear numbers.

Not quite sure what to think about the viscosity though...

Overall I'm pretty happy and I'm going to do a change at 6,500 next time.

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

I'm guessing the article in question is AE Hass' writings? I agree with most of what he says, or at least will say that most of what he's written is cited in other sources.

Generally, run the lightest weight oil that gives good wear results. There is no need for a 40 weight oil in most applications. I recommend the 0W-40 as the best oil Mobil makes in terms of wear and shear stability for long oil changes. I don't recommend it simply because of it's viscosity.

There is something to be said about the higher film strength that a higher viscosity oil possesses, but most driver's needs don't dictate it's use. Racing would be a prime example, though.

If you want to try a good lightweight 30 grade oil, both Amsoil's SSO and Sheaffer's 5W-30 have excellent UOA results to back them up. GTX 5W-30 is a good conventional. PP 10W-30 is another good syn alternative with excellent UOA results. Any 30 weight oil that meets ILSAC GF-4 and ACEA A5 specs (Castrol 0W-30 and Amsoil's TSO don't) will be a good energy conserving oil with a relatively thin 30 weight viscosity, but only the ones I mentioned have gone through multiple UOA's from the VQ and had consistently good wear and stability results.

Myself, I am going to get a UOA of Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 next. I have a slight bias for Shell products, and am surprised no one else has had a UOA with this oil.

For what it's worth, I don't buy Blackstone's cookie-cutter response. The Pb is from your bearing wear, and maybe wrist pin wear as well. If you run the GC 0W-30 to another 8k plus miles, your Pb will be similar. All in all, your engine wear looks good and this oil held up well. It's in grade and TBN is still high. However, your silicon is low and I doubt a particle streak.

What oil filter were you using?

If I were you, I would keep the oil changes to around 7500 miles, max, with this oil. The VQ is hard on oils, and while the oil's physical properties are still decent (thanks to a lack of fuel dilution in your engine, the rev-ups could only hope to be this nice) the GC will break down and I would not be surprised by a lack of protection offered the bearings under load after a long oil change interval. When the oil starts to shear, the wear will increase exponentially. Dial the oil change interval back a bit, and try another UOA and see how it goes.

Will

itsjiggajames

iTrader: (5)

Well i'd run GTX, but I do extended drain intervals and would rather stick with synthetics. I run between 5-6k, and do a few wot runs per week. I was under the assumption that 0w-40 was a good oil, but in terms of weight, I want to try 30 weights next. I can't really find the Syntec 0W-30, so i've been using M1's 0w-40.. Would you recommend my HR use a lighter oil like Pennzoil Plat 5w-30 because the redline is higher and the compression than DEs?

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

I would suggest you use what you like and get a UOA if you are truly concerned about finding what oil is working the best for you.

Mobil1 0W-40 is a good oil, I'm not sure why you might think otherwise. The wear results are good, and the oil is shear stable for extended drains. Of all the M1 products, it's one of the best.

If a 40 weight bothers you now, and you want a 30 weight instead, then I recommended some 30 weight oils that all have good UOA results. Any of them would be a good choice.

If you want to really split hairs over the recommended oils, and go beyond their average UOA results, then get UOA's done from your own engine under your own driving style and see how they fair. Unless you're really an odd driver who only does two mile commutes, then the trends will be similar to the average results collected so far, but you'll have the peace of mind of knowing exactly how your oil choice compares under your own driving habits.

Will

edit: btw, the difference in viscosity between the Syntec 0W-30 and M1 0W-40 is very small. The GC is a very thick 30 weight, and the M1 is a very thin 40 weight. You wouldn't really be making a huge difference switching between the two. If you want to use a thin 30 weight oil, the ones I recommended are a good place to start.

itsjiggajames

iTrader: (5)

Haha. You're right, if i keep being **** on what type of oil I choose I Might as well get a UOA. But for now i'll keep using M1 0w-40 or syntec 0w-30.

sibble

Thanks for the insight and suggestion, I'll try doing a change at around 7k this time. I'm using OEM Nissan oil filter, but I'm open to suggestions on other options there (I'm tired of driving to the dealership.)

itsjiggajames

iTrader: (5)

Pure one or M1 m110 synthetic filter.

jmark

iTrader: (1)

Think I am going with GTX 5W-30 & a K & N oil filter. I read somewhere the Mobil 1 & K & N are made the same place.

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

They are.

Will

jmark

iTrader: (1)

^ Thanks Will. I guess I'll buy which ever is cheaper. What about the OEM filter? Is it decent?

jmark

iTrader: (1)

Will,

What oil filter do you use? Thanks.

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

Usually M1. Sometimes Napa Gold.

Will

jmark

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Will. Autozone had M1's for $9.99.

brad568

Finally changed my oil for the first time and I must say that it was a lot of fun getting the factory filter off by hand. Boy, that thing was on tight.

Anyway, I'm posting my first oil analysis and would like any feedback that you guys might have. Specifically, I'm wondering if my results are inline with others who have followed Nissan's recommendations during the 1,200 mile break-in period. I bought my car with 150 miles on it and want to be sure that no one caned my Nismo before I got it. I was told by the dealer that the sales manager was the one who put most of the miles on this car when he took it to a company-sponsored golf outing. Yes, likely story and that's why I did the analysis.

Thanks in advance for your feedback.

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

Blackstone's techs crack me up. "You should look as good next time." LOL. If your next sample is anywhere near this bad looking, your engine is in a world o hurt.

This is why I changed my oil after 500 miles. Break-in sucks. It looks higher than I would expect, and higher than some other first change oil analysis, but nothing to worry about right now. The copper is from anti-seize and some gasket leachate, and along with the silicon it means you have RTV and other sealant & assembly lube materials in your oil. It's normal.

Run your next oil for 3k miles, and see how it does. The next UOA will say a lot more than this one, and give an idea about how well the engine is breaking in for you.

Will

another reason I change the factory oil out after 500 miles, your oil sample shows the factory Esso 30 grade oil, is now a thin 20 weight oil. That stuff really doesn't hold up well to the contamination from break-in, and shears fast.

brad568

Thanks for the quick response and good information. I've really appreciated this thread and your contributions. Like you, I wasn't as pleased with this report as the folks at Blackstone. I was especially concerned about the Iron and Copper levels, but it sounds like the Copper can be explained as a break-in phenomenon. I'm curious as to how high these indeces are on other first oil changes?

I'm now running Castrol GTX and will be changing to a synth at about 7,000 miles. Hopefully my next samples are much cleaner.

Brad

jmark

iTrader: (1)

Brad,

I am going with Mobil 1 oil filters and Castrol GTX 5-30 in both my Nismo Z & my son's Xterra.

brad568

Nice. I don't think you can go wrong with that combination. I've run Castrol GTX in my 1987 VW Vanagon and when I went to replace the head gaskets a couple of years ago I could still see the factory scorings on the cylinder walls.

How long are you going to run the mineral oil before switching to synth, if at all? I'm pretty sure that I'm going to run Castrol Syntec 0-30 European formula when I finally make the leap.

Brad