What Oil are you running in your HR?
I started my break-in with Mobil dino...then went to Mobil1 5w30, then to Royal Purple 5w30...it was too difficult to tell if the oil was clean or dirty so I went back to Mobil1. Can't find German Castrol anywhere but if I could get some, I'd try it out...
...had the K&N filter but made "ticking" sounds in my engine. Switched back to OEM Nissan filter...
...had the K&N filter but made "ticking" sounds in my engine. Switched back to OEM Nissan filter...
Last edited by Phantom Menace; Feb 11, 2009 at 06:47 PM.
www.bobistheoilguy.com is a great site of resources for tests, done on all oils, cars, reviews, etc.
Right now the best oils are as follows.
Amsoil
Redline
Motul
Penzoil Plat
Castrol German Syntec
Castrol Edge (Questionable still since it's new)
M1
RP
Mobil 1 is not near as good as it use to be a few years ago and is too thin. It has been having some pretty poor test results. So I would use any of those above and stay away from the others.
One of the common complaints of RP. Change it out to something like PP or Castrol or Amsoil and you won't use anymore oil most likely.
The w doesn't mean weight, it stands for winter. So, 0W-30 keeps it's viscosity better at a lower temperature than 10w-30. So, it depends where you live but really all you needs is 5w-30 in most places during winter.
I have gone to German Castrol 0W-30. Only have like 100 miles on it so far, but I am sure my car will feel exactly the same as when I had dino oil in from Nissan, the same as when I used Mobil1...
Honestly though, there are TONS of "What oil do you run" threads, and you will never come to a "this oil is the absolute best for the Z" answer. So do your own research and learn a few things instead of taking the easy route and taking our word for it. (hint: start in the Oil Analysis Threads, which are sticky at the top of the Engine forums)
The color of your oil when doing a change doesn't mean it was a bad oil. Find someone who had gold oil when they drained after a 3000-7000 miles interval 
To see if the oil held up or not, you need to do a UOA. Search these forums for "UOA" or "Blackstone" and you'll find out how to do one.
As for the "ticking" sound, it stopped once you got rid of the K&N?
Honestly though, there are TONS of "What oil do you run" threads, and you will never come to a "this oil is the absolute best for the Z" answer. So do your own research and learn a few things instead of taking the easy route and taking our word for it. (hint: start in the Oil Analysis Threads, which are sticky at the top of the Engine forums)
I started my break-in with Mobil dino...then went to Mobil1 5w30, then to Royal Purple 5w30...it was too difficult to tell if the oil was clean or dirty so I went back to Mobil1. Can't find German Castrol anywhere but if I could get some, I'd try it out...
...had the K&N filter but made "ticking" sounds in my engine. Switched back to OEM Nissan filter...
...had the K&N filter but made "ticking" sounds in my engine. Switched back to OEM Nissan filter...
To see if the oil held up or not, you need to do a UOA. Search these forums for "UOA" or "Blackstone" and you'll find out how to do one.As for the "ticking" sound, it stopped once you got rid of the K&N?
Last edited by KManZ; Mar 16, 2009 at 07:41 AM.
So after about 5 oil changes with Castrol Syntec 5w-30, I decided to try out Mobil 1's only worthy oil. I am not a fan of Mobil 1, but their 0w-40 formula is one of a kind. It's going in this weekend.
^^
That's right. It probably exceeds their requirements. After reading Resolute's oil thread, I found this oil to behave like a heavy 30 weight. And I think it's perfect for Houston's summer weather (100+ degrees)
That's right. It probably exceeds their requirements. After reading Resolute's oil thread, I found this oil to behave like a heavy 30 weight. And I think it's perfect for Houston's summer weather (100+ degrees)
never seen the pressure going lower than 18psi...
with the stock 10w30 I have seen a deep drop in the oil pressure after a day on the track.
Well so far I have about 200 miles on the Mobil1 Ow-40. I was expecting my fuel economy to go down slightly but it's been the same. One thing I noticed is that my oil pressure stays strong at 35-40psi when at idle. I remember with Castrol Syntec 5w-30 my oil pressure would drop to around 25-30psi after a good drive.
just so you know filtration systems, whatever it may be (k&n, fram, etc) has the same technology with only microns of filtrations difference. so, if your using k&n or oem, its basically doing the same thing, youre just paying for the name.
oh, i usually use mobil 1 5w30, but the one im using now is amsoil 5w30, both full synth. and im at 1800 miles on it (amsoil) and theres definitely a difference. my rev isnt as fast as when i was using mobil1 (when both at the same mile maintenance marker)...so im going back to mobil1.
i change oil every (in-between) 2500-3000 miles.
another FYI that Oil companies dont want you to know....you can use synth oils for a full year, you just have to change the filter to take out the shards from the engine and then top it off.
have i ever done it? hell no.
is it true? (supposedly) yes according to the master mechanics at my college. the instructor was invited to an oil company symposium and thats what mobil said about their oil and they have a test mule that collaborated their theory.
oh, i usually use mobil 1 5w30, but the one im using now is amsoil 5w30, both full synth. and im at 1800 miles on it (amsoil) and theres definitely a difference. my rev isnt as fast as when i was using mobil1 (when both at the same mile maintenance marker)...so im going back to mobil1.
i change oil every (in-between) 2500-3000 miles.
another FYI that Oil companies dont want you to know....you can use synth oils for a full year, you just have to change the filter to take out the shards from the engine and then top it off.
have i ever done it? hell no.
is it true? (supposedly) yes according to the master mechanics at my college. the instructor was invited to an oil company symposium and thats what mobil said about their oil and they have a test mule that collaborated their theory.
Last edited by Panda_stunter; Apr 1, 2009 at 04:13 PM.
just so you know filtration systems, whatever it may be (k&n, fram, etc) has the same technology with only microns of filtrations difference. so, if your using k&n or oem, its basically doing the same thing, youre just paying for the name.
oh, i usually use mobil 1 5w30, but the one im using now is amsoil 5w30, both full synth. and im at 1800 miles on it (amsoil) and theres definitely a difference. my rev isnt as fast as when i was using mobil1 (when both at the same mile maintenance marker)...so im going back to mobil1.
i change oil every (in-between) 2500-3000 miles.
another FYI that Oil companies dont want you to know....you can use synth oils for a full year, you just have to change the filter to take out the shards from the engine and then top it off.
have i ever done it? hell no.
is it true? (supposedly) yes according to the master mechanics at my college. the instructor was invited to an oil company symposium and thats what mobil said about their oil and they have a test mule that collaborated their theory.
oh, i usually use mobil 1 5w30, but the one im using now is amsoil 5w30, both full synth. and im at 1800 miles on it (amsoil) and theres definitely a difference. my rev isnt as fast as when i was using mobil1 (when both at the same mile maintenance marker)...so im going back to mobil1.
i change oil every (in-between) 2500-3000 miles.
another FYI that Oil companies dont want you to know....you can use synth oils for a full year, you just have to change the filter to take out the shards from the engine and then top it off.
have i ever done it? hell no.
is it true? (supposedly) yes according to the master mechanics at my college. the instructor was invited to an oil company symposium and thats what mobil said about their oil and they have a test mule that collaborated their theory.
