Peak.. Dont kill yourself over an oil filter dam it!! Kidding.. Watch that Ambien.. Strong stuff..

So yes you are correct.. The relief valve in the filter is for exactly what you said.. if restriction is in the filter it allows oil to bypass so that you have flow. This valve is only so strong. From my knowledge this also holds true for high pressure. The filter can only flow so much.. At 120 psi it WILL go past the valve. These filters "at best" will flow only to 80psi.. After that it will go into bypass.. This is fine for all driving except start up and performance driving. Mine stays at about 60psi in 6th on the highway.. As noted earlier I have a Porsche with a type 1 motor and it has high pressure also.. up to 90psi.. We have to run a high pressure filter..

Certainly I or we are not smarter than Nissan engineers so we must be wrong. I will be using Purolator Pure One filters and I suggest all do also. Best filter on the market.. Cut a fram and a Pure One open and look at the internals.. You will crap yourself when you see the junk a fram is..

 

Hi, I just sent a post out yesterday about oil pressure and warm up.. 08 MT w/ 7k on it. { bought 1 y.o. w/ 4k march 20 09, so I'm thinking of similar issues...}

So, my commute path has 1/2 m. to 220, then 1 m. to 17, and 8 up to 295, where things begin to accelerate. Up to that point I try to keep PSI under 90 by shifting around 2k-2.5k. Course, 9.5 isn't quite hot; I could use a real oil temp gauge but not major issue. I know there's the oil pan but also an area behind in transmission that takes longer to heat up, plus valves need fluid too. That system chart was nice in showing us the demands for the oil. Btw, try to avoid a/c especially in morning.

My intuitive logic about warm up is as follows; 45 mph is max before air resistance takes effect, so in theory if you do not accelerate beyong 'creep' you are almost just idling, which can't be too bad as far as stressing the metal, or the tubes. Just have to stay in slow lane as much as possible. Since my drive is 25m, I can get it up to temp and boil off the H2O which is part of combustion result; take 95 back to give it some wind resistance, as can't/try-not-to-for-very-long over 80 on 17, of course. Also, I coast when possible in traffic, you can take it into N too to reduce load, especially at light.

w/ warranty remaining I'm sticking w/ Ni$$an, despite the scratches, tho' the foreign car shop on college Drv. did well for my '89 prelude AT; spent many K-bills there in last years; but Dennis is fair, and I'd trust him too; some hi-perf shop up the road really did poor work on a/c I replaced, though D. fixed that repair up well.

 

update: read through http://www.focfloridaregion.com/edu/oil.htm
some good info on pressure, viscosity, flow, centiStokes, et.c.
that's the M.D. w/ his Ferrari test cases .. ;p .. but general info.

might go with http://www.synlube.com/ product. info there
compatible with above material, with some x-tra and superceding.
doubt this colloidal synth formula is going to achieve 'the ideal'
10 p.s.i./ 1K rpm, but it should be easier on startup than 5W and
more supra-212F resistant. $32/liter, & microglass magnet filter too,
but lower change cycle.

 

synoil is snake oil..

http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html

This is all you need to know about oils.. This is for a different application and viscosity but all other apply.. I use Brad Penn..

 

To review:

One statement out of the http://focfloridaregion.com/edu/oil.htm primer was the statement that

'the ideal is 10PSI / 1000RPM.' I've come across that convention other places too. But maybe that from the previous relative lo-pressure world.

Somewhere on this site came across minimum specs for oil pressure, out of service manual (not operating manual

At no load, hot 212F area:

Idle/'zero' 2000 ..................... 6500
>14psi >43psi ..................... >57psi

Observed:
Hot 27 60 {90 @3000} {100+ @4000}
Cold 30 90 {110@3000} {110 @4000}

Nissan mechanics did no-load engine rev, same #'s when hot and say,
'we compare to other functioning Z's, and if the same it's normal'

They do not have, or supply, standard operating psi / rpm, just that minimum
trio above.

I think using synthetic mobil1 or pennzoil platinum may be good quality low
wear choices, that may reduce psi by 10psi. Haven't tried it yet, but it will be
one of the two.

VQ engine oil analysis thread it up to 44 pages, but don't know if/when/where there may be a single compilation page, for now have to review many to get some conclusions.

But I'm avoiding synlube colloid solution; altho' the nanoFlon PTFE is 1-3 micron in size, and a 600F melting point, with the high tolerances in the vq35HR I need more info about it. That size will pass through any filter, but cylinders, journals, don't know. It's miniature version of slick50 random sized 'flakes'.

http://mysite.du.edu/~jcalvert/phys/colloid.htm nice overview of colloid theory and typology, easy read; find out about 'the 4rth state of matter'!

It's true we assume engine designers/engineers know what they're doing, but I'm surprised Nissan does not recommend synth oil, seems a necessary fit for hi tolerances and pressures, as synth molecules have less resistance, due designer shaped molecules. However, as long as PSI levels when hot are greater than ( > ) 43psi@2000, and 57psi@6500, it should be congruent with basic manual specs, and synth should be Ok: should know after fill and rev, without having to leave Nissan far at least.

Mobil1 can produce 7 - 10 HP more just due less resistance, and 10PSI reduction, so I've read. Not a lot but you don't want 'a lot' of reduction either. Remember minimum is not a standard to maintain, but a level to exceed.

(Wonder if 2003 - 2005/06 engines have this high pressure issue.)

http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfi...lterstudy.html

That's all I can say, hope it of aid to other relatively new owners to Z.