Motor oil problem
#21
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Kuwait
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
No but I'm sure they said to me using synthetic will void the warrenty I'm waiting for Nissan Corp to reply regarding this problem
#22
Registered User
iTrader: (5)
You lucky sob. I wish I could find ultra 5w40 and schaffer's without mail ordering them. Plus they charge an arm and leg for them, when I truly believe they are no greater(excluding Sch 5w-50) than Mobil 0w-40 or GC. But I would love someone to try the Schaffer's 5w-50 with their FI motor. I am sure Nissan will set you and the dealership straight.
#24
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Kuwait
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You lucky sob. I wish I could find ultra 5w40 and schaffer's without mail ordering them. Plus they charge an arm and leg for them, when I truly believe they are no greater(excluding Sch 5w-50) than Mobil 0w-40 or GC. But I would love someone to try the Schaffer's 5w-50 with their FI motor. I am sure Nissan will set you and the dealership straight.
#25
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Kuwait
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I hope the nissan Corp won't be stupid as the dealer then I will be on my own
#26
Registered User
iTrader: (5)
Good luck trying to find Pennzoil 5w-40 for $6-7 a quart in the U.S. You won't find it in store's here. It's like me paying Kuwaiti prices if i had it shipped through amazon, lol. I hope you get this figured out and stop using that 20w-50.
Last edited by NyCSnEaK; 08-19-2010 at 01:25 PM.
#27
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Kuwait
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
thnx and i hope so too because with 20w50 i'm getting alittle bit higher car temp
Last edited by Taresh; 08-19-2010 at 04:40 PM.
#28
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Kuwait
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
guys i just drove the 350z on the highway just to make sure of the pressure and here are the results
First of all remember that i switched to 20w50 after i freaked out
1-when i started the engine it was 105 F OUTSIDE at idle it was 90 psi for 30 seconds
2-after many miles at the highway i stopped at a traffic light
so hot idle was 30 psi
3-normal driving the rev was 2200 rpm and it was 90 psi (almost 70 mph)
3- at 6000 rpm it was little less than 120 psi
4- somewhere in the city rpm 2000 pressure was 60 and the speed was between 56 mph to 69 mph
5-after i raced some car and stopped at a traffic light it went little below 30 and the car temp went up a little
should i be worried about this oil?
First of all remember that i switched to 20w50 after i freaked out
1-when i started the engine it was 105 F OUTSIDE at idle it was 90 psi for 30 seconds
2-after many miles at the highway i stopped at a traffic light
so hot idle was 30 psi
3-normal driving the rev was 2200 rpm and it was 90 psi (almost 70 mph)
3- at 6000 rpm it was little less than 120 psi
4- somewhere in the city rpm 2000 pressure was 60 and the speed was between 56 mph to 69 mph
5-after i raced some car and stopped at a traffic light it went little below 30 and the car temp went up a little
should i be worried about this oil?
#29
Registered User
iTrader: (5)
I have no expertise as a trained professional when it comes to discussing oil. But I believe, if you read this http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/, you can make an informed decision on what oil to put into your Z and be worry free. Read every chapter.
#30
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Kuwait
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have no expertise as a trained professional when it comes to discussing oil. But I believe, if you read this http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/, you can make an informed decision on what oil to put into your Z and be worry free. Read every chapter.
I'm confused more than ever
#31
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Kuwait
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have no expertise as a trained professional when it comes to discussing oil. But I believe, if you read this http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/, you can make an informed decision on what oil to put into your Z and be worry free. Read every chapter.
#33
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
I'll admit I do follow BITOG, my350z and g35driver for oil recommendation, as we are a bunch of oil snobs, but the truth of the matter is you really can't go wrong with any oil mentioned as long as you stick with a prudent oil change interval. It's probably better for fuel economy to stick with oem spec oil whether it's synthetic or not. Even the high viscosity will work. Our cars have been tested stock on climates just as hot as yours under more extreme driving situations you will not see on a daily basis. Believe that and just put any reputable multi viscosity oil (within warranty) and be done with it. No worries
#34
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Kuwait
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'll admit I do follow BITOG, my350z and g35driver for oil recommendation, as we are a bunch of oil snobs, but the truth of the matter is you really can't go wrong with any oil mentioned as long as you stick with a prudent oil change interval. It's probably better for fuel economy to stick with oem spec oil whether it's synthetic or not. Even the high viscosity will work. Our cars have been tested stock on climates just as hot as yours under more extreme driving situations you will not see on a daily basis. Believe that and just put any reputable multi viscosity oil (within warranty) and be done with it. No worries
#35
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
If you're going to be redlining the motor with every gear change in the hot weather I'd lean towards at least a 40 or 50 wt. No harm no foul either way, just for peace of mind. In theory the thicker viscosity will stand up to the heat and pressure time after time you beat on it if that's how you drive. I've used everything from Mobil 1 5W-30, 15w-50 to Castrol Syntec 5w-50 and Rotella 5w-40 synthetic in my SR20det powered racecar (4cyl upgraded turbo, stock internals). I used the thick stuff when we drove 1,000mi each way to Road Atlanta, qualified, then went up against Rhys Millen in the first rd of Formula D ('05) and drove back home in one piece avg 30mpg mind you. In drifting we're consistently bouncing off the rev limiter and doing all kinds of unnatural stuff like clutch kick under full throttle, etc. No problems using thick stuff during the humid summer even though it's not recommended by oem, but I wouldn't mind using a 30wt synthetic either. It's just what we had to use at the time.
On the other hand, these VQ engines are designed to operate under ALL climate conditions using 30-40wt. Whatever you have in the crankcase, just keep it, make sure the level stays full and quit worrying! lol
fwiw, BMW M cars use 50 to 60wt and they know something about naturally aspirated engines that rev way higher than ours! Now those things run hot, run ungodly long oil change intervals and rev super high!
Last edited by VQdriver; 08-21-2010 at 01:52 PM. Reason: booo we're anal about our oil here! haha
#36
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Kuwait
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It's ironic the Nissan dealer would push 20w50 viscosity on you when it's not recommended in the manual and would say that using the correct 5w-30 synthetic will deny warranty coverage. Am I wrong?
If you're going to be redlining the motor with every gear change in the hot weather I'd lean towards at least a 40 or 50 wt. No harm no foul either way, just for peace of mind. In theory the thicker viscosity will stand up to the heat and pressure time after time you beat on it if that's how you drive. I've used everything from Mobil 1 5W-30, 15w-50 to Castrol Syntec 5w-50 and Rotella 5w-40 synthetic in my SR20det powered racecar (4cyl upgraded turbo, stock internals). I used the thick stuff when we drove 1,000mi each way to Road Atlanta, qualified, then went up against Rhys Millen in the first rd of Formula D ('05) and drove back home in one piece avg 30mpg mind you. In drifting we're consistently bouncing off the rev limiter and doing all kinds of unnatural stuff like clutch kick under full throttle, etc. No problems using thick stuff during the humid summer even though it's not recommended by oem, but I wouldn't mind using a 30wt synthetic either. It's just what we had to use at the time.
On the other hand, these VQ engines are designed to operate under ALL climate conditions using 30-40wt. Whatever you have in the crankcase, just keep it, make sure the level stays full and quit worrying! lol
fwiw, BMW M cars use 50 to 60wt and they know something about naturally aspirated engines that rev way higher than ours! Now those things run hot, run ungodly long oil change intervals and rev super high!
If you're going to be redlining the motor with every gear change in the hot weather I'd lean towards at least a 40 or 50 wt. No harm no foul either way, just for peace of mind. In theory the thicker viscosity will stand up to the heat and pressure time after time you beat on it if that's how you drive. I've used everything from Mobil 1 5W-30, 15w-50 to Castrol Syntec 5w-50 and Rotella 5w-40 synthetic in my SR20det powered racecar (4cyl upgraded turbo, stock internals). I used the thick stuff when we drove 1,000mi each way to Road Atlanta, qualified, then went up against Rhys Millen in the first rd of Formula D ('05) and drove back home in one piece avg 30mpg mind you. In drifting we're consistently bouncing off the rev limiter and doing all kinds of unnatural stuff like clutch kick under full throttle, etc. No problems using thick stuff during the humid summer even though it's not recommended by oem, but I wouldn't mind using a 30wt synthetic either. It's just what we had to use at the time.
On the other hand, these VQ engines are designed to operate under ALL climate conditions using 30-40wt. Whatever you have in the crankcase, just keep it, make sure the level stays full and quit worrying! lol
fwiw, BMW M cars use 50 to 60wt and they know something about naturally aspirated engines that rev way higher than ours! Now those things run hot, run ungodly long oil change intervals and rev super high!
now I will try to call nissan Corp office in Dubai and ask them if they could send a copy of the owner manual anyway
thx again for your help
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Lt_Ballzacki
Brakes & Suspension
39
08-06-2021 06:19 AM